Gears and a t-lock?
10-26-2006, 07:56 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Location:
Posts: 278
Gears and a t-lock?
OKay a couple of questions first......
Gears- I think I am going to go with 4.10 for my manual. The car all street driven with lots of high way (recomendations?)
what size rear end do i need to buy gears for?
Tlock- Whats better the t-lock or an lsd?
Shouldnt I be able to keep my warrenty on the drivetrain if I go with ford parts (gears and t-lock and have them dealer installed?) I know the dealer is going to rape me on the install cost and I know they have to prove my parts caused the problem in order to void any part of my warrenty, think of it more as a piece of mind thing.
Gears- I think I am going to go with 4.10 for my manual. The car all street driven with lots of high way (recomendations?)
what size rear end do i need to buy gears for?
Tlock- Whats better the t-lock or an lsd?
Shouldnt I be able to keep my warrenty on the drivetrain if I go with ford parts (gears and t-lock and have them dealer installed?) I know the dealer is going to rape me on the install cost and I know they have to prove my parts caused the problem in order to void any part of my warrenty, think of it more as a piece of mind thing.
10-26-2006, 08:30 PM
#2
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Posts: 2,750
RE: Gears and a t-lock?
ORIGINAL: localgod11
OKay a couple of questions first......
Gears- I think I am going to go with 4.10 for my manual. The car all street driven with lots of high way (recomendations?)
what size rear end do i need to buy gears for?
Tlock- Whats better the t-lock or an lsd?
Shouldnt I be able to keep my warrenty on the drivetrain if I go with ford parts (gears and t-lock and have them dealer installed?) I know the dealer is going to rape me on the install cost and I know they have to prove my parts caused the problem in order to void any part of my warrenty, think of it more as a piece of mind thing.
OKay a couple of questions first......
Gears- I think I am going to go with 4.10 for my manual. The car all street driven with lots of high way (recomendations?)
what size rear end do i need to buy gears for?
Tlock- Whats better the t-lock or an lsd?
Shouldnt I be able to keep my warrenty on the drivetrain if I go with ford parts (gears and t-lock and have them dealer installed?) I know the dealer is going to rape me on the install cost and I know they have to prove my parts caused the problem in order to void any part of my warrenty, think of it more as a piece of mind thing.
I would go with the 3.73 in your case... we have a 7.5 rear end... T-lock is a type of Limited Slip Differential (LSD)... You should be fine with a track-lock...
As far as warranty... only think it might void would be your rear end and possibly axles.. but don't quote me on that... I do know it will not void your entire warranty... Now, the thing is the track-lock and gears would be considered Ford Racing parts... these are typically sold "as is" with no warranty... so even if you have a dealer install them I doubt they would warranty them... LOL!
10-26-2006, 11:14 PM
#3
RE: Gears and a t-lock?
I'm in the market for gears too...I've done a lot of research and reading on here and other forums. I put about 1500-2000 miles every month on my car, about 98% of those being highway. 4.10s would be a little too much for cruising on the highway consistently. I'm going with 3.73s...plenty of gear for the car, and a little less in the rpm range on the highway 
10-27-2006, 02:00 PM
#4
RE: Gears and a t-lock?
go with 4.10s, you will want to kill yourself if you go with 3.73s especially in a 5 speed, however you are a 5 speed, and if you plan on somehting very big i would recomend a detroit true trac and a TA rear girdle becasue my PERSONAL expereince with the tlok has not been good, not in the 7.5 nor the 8.8
10-29-2006, 01:51 AM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 408
RE: Gears and a t-lock?
For what I understand, just retune your xCal II to the new gear size and that should set you up. Today I got my gears put in, I'm using something that I've yet to see on this forum. They put in a set of US Gears/Strange Gears 3.73 and a Ford Racing T-lok, no noise.
I'm doing a 300-500 mile breakin to let the gears and T-lok set in. (Question) Do anyone know if this brake in is a thing that I need to do?
Thanks,
Denny Carlton
I'm doing a 300-500 mile breakin to let the gears and T-lok set in. (Question) Do anyone know if this brake in is a thing that I need to do?
Thanks,
Denny Carlton
10-29-2006, 12:52 PM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: TX
Posts: 162
RE: Gears and a t-lock?
ORIGINAL: Denny Carlton
For what I understand, just retune your xCal II to the new gear size and that should set you up. Today I got my gears put in, I'm using something that I've yet to see on this forum. They put in a set of US Gears/Strange Gears 3.73 and a Ford Racing T-lok, no noise.
I'm doing a 300-500 mile breakin to let the gears and T-lok set in. (Question) Do anyone know if this brake in is a thing that I need to do?
Thanks,
Denny Carlton
For what I understand, just retune your xCal II to the new gear size and that should set you up. Today I got my gears put in, I'm using something that I've yet to see on this forum. They put in a set of US Gears/Strange Gears 3.73 and a Ford Racing T-lok, no noise.
I'm doing a 300-500 mile breakin to let the gears and T-lok set in. (Question) Do anyone know if this brake in is a thing that I need to do?
Thanks,
Denny Carlton
ORIGINAL: mustangman02232
.. my PERSONAL expereince with the tlok has not been good, not in the 7.5 nor the 8.8
.. my PERSONAL expereince with the tlok has not been good, not in the 7.5 nor the 8.8
11-07-2006, 06:22 PM
#8
RE: Gears and a t-lock?
ORIGINAL: Rnstanger
You'll get alot of responses on this. Some say wait about 500 miles before getting on it. Some say 3 heat cycles and some say no break in period. Remember, your gears are new when you first buy your car off the lot.
More detail please
ORIGINAL: Denny Carlton
For what I understand, just retune your xCal II to the new gear size and that should set you up. Today I got my gears put in, I'm using something that I've yet to see on this forum. They put in a set of US Gears/Strange Gears 3.73 and a Ford Racing T-lok, no noise.
I'm doing a 300-500 mile breakin to let the gears and T-lok set in. (Question) Do anyone know if this brake in is a thing that I need to do?
Thanks,
Denny Carlton
For what I understand, just retune your xCal II to the new gear size and that should set you up. Today I got my gears put in, I'm using something that I've yet to see on this forum. They put in a set of US Gears/Strange Gears 3.73 and a Ford Racing T-lok, no noise.
I'm doing a 300-500 mile breakin to let the gears and T-lok set in. (Question) Do anyone know if this brake in is a thing that I need to do?
Thanks,
Denny Carlton
ORIGINAL: mustangman02232
.. my PERSONAL expereince with the tlok has not been good, not in the 7.5 nor the 8.8
.. my PERSONAL expereince with the tlok has not been good, not in the 7.5 nor the 8.8
11-11-2006, 03:30 PM
#9
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 3,594
RE: Gears and a t-lock?
get the detroit truetrac. mustangman is correct the ford T-lok is not very strong. it is a stock replacement part made for the BroncoII with the old weak 120hp 2.9L V6. they carried the part over into the FRPP catalog for V6 guy's wanting to upgrade to T-lok option without having to get an 8.8 rear. the T-lok is fine on stock 94-98 V6 auto's but i wouldn't trust it with anything else more powerfull. yes alot use it with not many problems but it it a time bomb. either the clutch packs will wear out and the clutch packs are $100 just themselves or the small weak spyder gears will shed teeth like a meth junkie neither of which is good and usually wipes out the ring and pinion when the spyders go
get the Detroit truetrac and never look back
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com...ford-75-1.html
as for break-in period. do short runs at no more than 60mph for about 20-30 minutes then let the car cool down. do this for about 400 miles and the bearings will be seated properly and you will have the strongest possible setup. why throw money at a rear only to have it weakened by inferior parts or lack or break-in.
you cann also add a TA performance girdle from the above link with a bearing cap stud kit part# TA 1816B for the stud kit and TA 1805 for the girdle. you will need to locate a panhard relocation bracket to use the girdle. i'll see if i can find the place that sells them
link to girdle
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com.../girdle-1.html
OK here is the panhard relocation bracket to clear the TA girdle. yes it works with 7.5 rears too
http://www.lmperformance.com/5994/73.html
get the Detroit truetrac and never look back
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com...ford-75-1.html
as for break-in period. do short runs at no more than 60mph for about 20-30 minutes then let the car cool down. do this for about 400 miles and the bearings will be seated properly and you will have the strongest possible setup. why throw money at a rear only to have it weakened by inferior parts or lack or break-in.
you cann also add a TA performance girdle from the above link with a bearing cap stud kit part# TA 1816B for the stud kit and TA 1805 for the girdle. you will need to locate a panhard relocation bracket to use the girdle. i'll see if i can find the place that sells them
link to girdle
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com.../girdle-1.html
OK here is the panhard relocation bracket to clear the TA girdle. yes it works with 7.5 rears too
http://www.lmperformance.com/5994/73.html
11-11-2006, 03:57 PM
#10
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Posts: 2,750
RE: Gears and a t-lock?
ORIGINAL: cobra232
get the detroit truetrac. mustangman is correct the ford T-lok is not very strong. it is a stock replacement part made for the BroncoII with the old weak 120hp 2.9L V6. they carried the part over into the FRPP catalog for V6 guy's wanting to upgrade to T-lok option without having to get an 8.8 rear. the T-lok is fine on stock 94-98 V6 auto's but i wouldn't trust it with anything else more powerfull. yes alot use it with not many problems but it it a time bomb. either the clutch packs will wear out and the clutch packs are $100 just themselves or the small weak spyder gears will shed teeth like a meth junkie neither of which is good and usually wipes out the ring and pinion when the spyders go
get the Detroit truetrac and never look back
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com...ford-75-1.html
as for break-in period. do short runs at no more than 60mph for about 20-30 minutes then let the car cool down. do this for about 400 miles and the bearings will be seated properly and you will have the strongest possible setup. why throw money at a rear only to have it weakened by inferior parts or lack or break-in.
you cann also add a TA performance girdle from the above link with a bearing cap stud kit part# TA 1816B for the stud kit and TA 1805 for the girdle. you will need to locate a panhard relocation bracket to use the girdle. i'll see if i can find the place that sells them
link to girdle
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com.../girdle-1.html
OK here is the panhard relocation bracket to clear the TA girdle. yes it works with 7.5 rears too
http://www.lmperformance.com/5994/73.html
get the detroit truetrac. mustangman is correct the ford T-lok is not very strong. it is a stock replacement part made for the BroncoII with the old weak 120hp 2.9L V6. they carried the part over into the FRPP catalog for V6 guy's wanting to upgrade to T-lok option without having to get an 8.8 rear. the T-lok is fine on stock 94-98 V6 auto's but i wouldn't trust it with anything else more powerfull. yes alot use it with not many problems but it it a time bomb. either the clutch packs will wear out and the clutch packs are $100 just themselves or the small weak spyder gears will shed teeth like a meth junkie neither of which is good and usually wipes out the ring and pinion when the spyders go
get the Detroit truetrac and never look back
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com...ford-75-1.html
as for break-in period. do short runs at no more than 60mph for about 20-30 minutes then let the car cool down. do this for about 400 miles and the bearings will be seated properly and you will have the strongest possible setup. why throw money at a rear only to have it weakened by inferior parts or lack or break-in.
you cann also add a TA performance girdle from the above link with a bearing cap stud kit part# TA 1816B for the stud kit and TA 1805 for the girdle. you will need to locate a panhard relocation bracket to use the girdle. i'll see if i can find the place that sells them
link to girdle
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com.../girdle-1.html
OK here is the panhard relocation bracket to clear the TA girdle. yes it works with 7.5 rears too
http://www.lmperformance.com/5994/73.html
Huh... I was pushing 450+ ft/lbs with DR's through my trac-lok using the N20... and N20 hits very hard... I also keep my DR's on full time now that I have a supercharger.. I abuse my Trac-lok a lot... Not a single problem... Amazing how you guys say the trac-lok won't hold up to addition power... that it is just going to blow apart... Hmmmm... There has been one case of a broken trac-lok by Powerhouse who were SPRAYING N20 BEFORE they actually DUMPED the clutch at 5,000 RPM!! And they actually broke the axles BEFORE the trac-lok! So the weak point in fact is going to be the axles...
There have been 2 broken Auburns that I'm aware of... and they are supposed to be a lot stronger than the trac-lok!!!
The trac-lok is going to be strong enough for 99.9% of the guys in here....