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Well one more thing off subject. What should i set my WOT shifts to if i even should change them on my tune? ANd if i was to buy headers stainless steel of titanium ceramic?
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2006 v6 Pony Pkg.
Jba H pipe and mid pipes
Borla Stingers
Sequential Taillights
SCT X3 tuner with Steeda CAI
Bamachips 93 race tune
Listen if you want to, but if you're going to get them anyway, then go ahead.
You will NOT get 10 hp from shorties alone.
It will slightly improve the sound, but ONLY if you have different mufflers vs. the stock setup.
Drone is not caused nor cancelled by headers; drone is resonance in the pipes or mufflers caused by air flow waves which at certain pulse frequencies cause the surrounding enclosure (pipe or muffler) to 'resonate' with the pulsations.
If you are having vibrations from the exhaust, it's likely coming from the mid-pipe hanger supports at the rear of the transmission; that location tends to transmit vibrations to the body more than any other contact point.
The stock exhaust manifolds on these V6s are designed quite well and flow very good, especially compared to other vehicles and other years. Look at the passenger side: it's already shaped more like a header than an older-style exhaust manifold.
If you're looking for sound improvement as the primary thing here, focus on mufflers.
If you're looking for elimination of vibration/noise, look elsewhere.
As far as your shift points in the tune, changing a WOT value will affect when the shift occurs relative to speed and rpms. Lowering the value caused the shift to occur a little sooner, while raising it delays the shift. If you have times when a shift seems to 'hang' and not complete, then lowering that shift by 1-2 will help avoid that hanging effect.
Normally though, you want the shifts to occur at the higher rpms to stay in the power band longer. If you have a laptop, you can use your SCT to datalog the shift points and rpms. Do this and you'll likely see how much rpms drop after a shift, too.
I've used this approach to optimize my shift points for both street and track so shifting occurs at the best rpms while not delaying the shifting longer than necessary.
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Mike - 2005 V6 Automatic, 300+ RWHP; 12.79 1/4
Vortech supercharger (SOLD); 180*T-stat; PLX Wideband O2, VEI digital gauges, SOS pillar pod; JBA 9MM wires; Mac LT headers, high flow cats; 8.8 w/3.73s, LPW girdle, alum driveshaft, 3000rpm TC; Steeda UCA, panhard bar, brace; CHE lca's & reloc brackets; Steeda Sport springs, Tokico DSpecs. .. "Sally" is getting "balls" ...forged V8 swap in progress
Thanks for all that information. The borla stingers can be quite loud on highway, and I just happend to read somewhere that headers help cancel the drone. I was just wondering if that was true.
I also read that most people say headers are not worth it.
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2006 v6 Pony Pkg.
Jba H pipe and mid pipes
Borla Stingers
Sequential Taillights
SCT X3 tuner with Steeda CAI
Bamachips 93 race tune
How about an aluminum drive shaft? Its a lot lighter than stock and I've heard people say that they lose about .2 seconds from there ET in the quarter mile. Also, it will eliminate a lot of vibration and is much safer than stock. Stock driveshafts have failed around 115 mph.
Also, if you are just running the SCT canned tunes, get a custom tune from a decent shop like bamachips.com, brenspeed.com, vmptuning.com, or alternative auto.com. Those shops will write a custom tune for you and e-mail it so you can download it onto your tuner with a USB cable. Don't bother messing with the shift points or other settings, just get a custom tune.
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2006 Mustang 4.0 Convertible
-Satin Silver
-Auto
-Pypes True Duals w/ x pipe and Street Pros
-C&L Cold Air Intake
-XCal3 w/ Bama tunes
-GT takeoff front/rear bumpers, sideskirts, grill/fogs
-18x9 Shelby Torque Thrust M wheels w/ 255/45/r18s
How about an aluminum drive shaft? Its a lot lighter than stock and I've heard people say that they lose about .2 seconds from there ET in the quarter mile. Also, it will eliminate a lot of vibration and is much safer than stock. Stock driveshafts have failed around 115 mph.
Also, if you are just running the SCT canned tunes, get a custom tune from a decent shop like bamachips.com, brenspeed.com, vmptuning.com, or alternative auto.com. Those shops will write a custom tune for you and e-mail it so you can download it onto your tuner with a USB cable. Don't bother messing with the shift points or other settings, just get a custom tune.
i went to the websites you listed but how does the website custom the tune i already have? And when i bought the tune americanmuscle had a custom tune, is it better or worse than the sites?
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2006 v6 Pony Pkg.
Jba H pipe and mid pipes
Borla Stingers
Sequential Taillights
SCT X3 tuner with Steeda CAI
Bamachips 93 race tune
i went to the websites you listed but how does the website custom the tune i already have? And when i bought the tune americanmuscle had a custom tune, is it better or worse than the sites?
Correct me if I am wrong, but the american muscle tune is just the SCT canned tune. You have an auto, so I'd definitely get a tune from Bama.
I agree with the driveshaft suggestion. Also, you may want to look into a Zabteck throttle body - said to really help with throttle response and flow a little better.
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'05 Black 4.0 auto | FRPP Duals | Hi-Po X-Charger 2.8 | Bama 91 tunes | Rockford Fosgate 12" sub w/ 500w amp
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaunen
why does it say i have a 10incher?? WTF? faps to children,molests kids...wtf unbelievable
The canned tune from American Muscle does not max out the potential of your intake/engine. Doug from Bamachips will write you a custom tune specified for your car, which will give a better overall feel of the car.
If you are set on headers, just get the eBay headers, they have showed similar gains to the more expensive BBK ones.
I say give the LSD and gear another shot with your father, you won't regret it.
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.. "Sally" is getting "balls" ...forged V8 swap in progress 
