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you're missing your mounts from what I see. v6 k member and mounts won't work for V8, also need a transmission control module for the tranny if I recall
You need the engine of course, tranny, the v8 wiring harness on the engine/tranny, ecu for the tranny type (manual or auto), a/c lines to the compressor, and the bottom power steering line has a different bend. That's the main items different.
You can find engine's for much less than $2500. Get all the parts together at one time if you can, or as many as you can.
Also, the year of you car makes a difference as to the year ECU you need for the swap. There were some wiring differences in '07+.
There's several of us around currently doing such a swap, and I think mostly a lot of the work is being done ourselves, so I can't tell you how much a shop would charge.
Oh, you'll need a tune for the ecu to disable PATS to get the car to start.
If you have a manual tranny, you'll need the different driveshaft.
If using stock exhaust, you'll need the GT cats; best is to get ahold of a stock h-pipe or handle it how you want.
But, if your power goals are to get to where GTs are, which is only around 270-280 stock, then you can get there much easier and cheaper with a supercharger (x-charger or centri blower). After having done that, I decided to do a v8 swap with a forged engine and will be adding a power added later.
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Mike - 2005 V6 Automatic, 300+ RWHP; 12.79 1/4
Vortech supercharger (SOLD); 180*T-stat; PLX Wideband O2, VEI digital gauges, SOS pillar pod; JBA 9MM wires; Mac LT headers, high flow cats; 8.8 w/3.73s, LPW girdle, alum driveshaft, 3000rpm TC; Steeda UCA, panhard bar, brace; CHE lca's & reloc brackets; Steeda Sport springs, Tokico DSpecs. .. "Sally" is getting "balls" ...forged V8 swap in progress
fully built 4.0s that are blown can get over 400hp, I think I saw one fully built at 450HP. A lot of money but still nice and fast. don't forget on that GT engine you also need all of your ignition parts, plugs and wires, coilpacks. also need to stiffen the entire suspension to handle it without loading.
Again I recommend a super, if thats not enough get a turbo, want more get meth inject, more? NOS, still not done? there's always internals.
Finally if that doesn't suit you then get a crate motor and i def recommend that over a used 4.6 (or even a new one). NO one would ever suspect a 4.0 lookin stang to be hiding a 302 stroker, 428 (or 427), or even other unimaginable things like a 5.7 or 6.0 GM or chrysler engine.
Again advantages with FF?I on a 4.0 are weight savings in staying wit a smaller lighter block.
Even other V6's and 4.0 can make more power than ours, maybe thats an option. I would low to put my 4.0L W8 in this stang and really liven it up. 300Hp/300lbs (making max torque at 1950rpms and then flattening out) and an exotic W8 rumble, I wish I wish I wish, definitely one of a kind (had VW not poorly designed that engine and made it rely too much on computers for it to work in an American car)
I guess my point is, get a power adder, or if you must swap, do with with something other than a 4.6
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