I need a new clutch but don't know what to get...PLEASE HELP

06mustangV6 · 10-27-2009, 01:36 PM

My clutch is slipping so I need to get a new one. I have no idea what clutch has the best quality for the best price. I don't have a lot of money to spend, drive a lot on the highway going to school and back, and don't have any modifications to it yet. I have been looking at Fidanza, Centerforce, and SPEC. Are there better options? I'm pretty sure that the SPEC needs the matching flywheel, does every clutch need its own new flywheel? Please help me out with some advice. Thank you...its much appreciated.

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Torch_Vert · 10-31-2009, 08:11 AM

I just replaced mine a couple months back. I went with a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, and a SPEC aluminum flywheel.

I'm VERY happy with my Centerforce, but SPEC's clutches are generally well regarded among the 4.0 crowd too

You don't need to replace the flywheel, but you should have a local auto machine shop resurface the existing one before re-use.

Using a SPEC clutch shouldn't require a matching flywheel unless your car was built after 5/2007 (Ford changed the flywheel design at that time, and most aftermarket clutches for the 4.0L are designed for the original style flywheel)

You should be cautious in deciding whether you want to replace the flywheel with an aftermarket aluminum one such as the SPEC or Fidanza. They have much lower weight, which means lower rotating mass, allowing the engine to spin up faster, but there's a trade off in noise, as the transmission tends to be a bit noisier and "grumble" more at idle due to not having that extra 30 or so lbs of metal smoothing out the power pulses. Personally I find the extra performance worth a little more gear noise when sitting at a light, but some would no doubt find it objectionable.

06mustangV6 · 11-02-2009, 10:36 PM

Thank you, that helps out a lot. Now, between the SPEC Stage 1, designed for lightly modified engines, versus the Centerforce Dual Friction, designed for high-hp, high torque engines, which one do I choose? Would it damage anything to have a clutch designed for high hp without having the high hp? Thanks for the help, its going to be a descent investment and I want to make sure I have the right stuff.

Torch_Vert · 11-02-2009, 11:44 PM

It won't damage anything to have a clutch rated for more HP and torque than you need, but you don't want to go too far because:

1) you're spending money for capability you don't need

and

2) As you get into the really high HP/Torque designs, regular street drivability starts to suffer. (higher pedal pressure, less forgiving engagement, etc)

The Centerforce DF is a good compromise imho. Pedal pressure similar to factory, good street manners and the extra hold when you need it. By all accounts the Spec 2+ is another really good choice.

28HopUp · 11-09-2009, 03:56 PM

I went with a SPEC 2 and Fidanza aluminum flywheel. I was happy with the clutch choice, but not the flywheel. Wish I had my stocker resurfaced instead. My car was naturally aspirated, and the lighter rotating assembly resulted in less torque IMO. I was never able to beat my personal best at the strip with the new combination. Yes, the motor did rev quicker with the lighter flywheel, but the benefit was lost with me not having forced induction - I think the flywheeel hurt my ET's.

I did get some chatter with the SPEC 2 clutrch at idle, but I fixed that by using my handheld tuner to raise my idle speed by roughly 100 RPM's.