Getting Gears - Need Help
12-04-2009, 11:52 AM
#22
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Maryland
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I've already ordered everything and am just waiting on it to get delivered (Monday at the latest).
12-04-2009, 01:11 PM
#23
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 234
Enjoy!!!
12-04-2009, 01:17 PM
#24
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Maryland
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You'll enjoy it for sure dd!!! I'm having a blast with the 3.73s in mine!!! Much more fun to drive when you feel like 'gettin on it', but I've also noticed if I'm just takin it easy back and forth to work (with my foot out of it), my MPGs maybe up 1 or 2. Just a quick observation I'm having but since I only got them on Wed, I need more time to check that out. I've got probably 75%city vs hwy on my daily drive.
Enjoy!!!
Enjoy!!!
12-04-2009, 01:33 PM
#25
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 234
It's killing me having to wait. You know how it is.... You spend money on something and then have to wait to enjoy what you've already spent money on. This whole thing is coming out to be about 950 bucks total. The gears (4.10 for 7.5" rear) and the install kit, along with the Posi-Trac (200 bucks), plus the install (400 bucks), didn't come cheap, but will be worth it in the end.
Glad you found a good shop to do it, your total price is right on everyones target and in no time you'll be enjoying it!!!
12-08-2009, 07:42 PM
#26
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Maryland
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Alright, got the 4.10s and the Posi-Trac installed today.
Man was it expensive? I got charged extra for gear oil and all kinds of crap. These guys may be the best around but they nickel and dime you to DEATH. Found out that all the bearings didn't get included on my original order so had to get them from Ford, 200 dollars later..... In the end I paid almost 1300 bucks for the parts and install for the 4.10s and the Posi-Trac...... Too much.
As far as how I like them, I can't really say just yet since I babied it on the way home. Everyone says to baby it to break the gears in for a few hundred miles. I don't really understand that process since you don't have to baby the stock gears for a few hundred miles. Anybody know why you have to baby them if you do a gear swap?
One thing I did notice on the drive home was a faint humming sound coming from the rear, and it only does it when I press the gas pedal. When I let off the gas it stops. I wouldn't say it's a "whine". It's a faint "hum" that I can hear when the gas is applied. The guys at the shop did tell me that these new gears would make noise. They even showed it to me in the manual that the FRPP gears came in. He said that added noise doesn't necessarily mean that it's whining. He said that a "whine" will be very noticeable and very annoying. It's definitely not that sound.
So, any input you guys and gals can give me would be great, as far as what to expect noise and driving wise.
Should I baby it for a few hundred miles, and if so, why? Stock gears don't require it right?
Also, for those who have switched to the FRPP 4.10s, did you notice a sound difference AT ALL after yours were put in?
Thanks!
Dave
Man was it expensive? I got charged extra for gear oil and all kinds of crap. These guys may be the best around but they nickel and dime you to DEATH. Found out that all the bearings didn't get included on my original order so had to get them from Ford, 200 dollars later..... In the end I paid almost 1300 bucks for the parts and install for the 4.10s and the Posi-Trac...... Too much.
As far as how I like them, I can't really say just yet since I babied it on the way home. Everyone says to baby it to break the gears in for a few hundred miles. I don't really understand that process since you don't have to baby the stock gears for a few hundred miles. Anybody know why you have to baby them if you do a gear swap?
One thing I did notice on the drive home was a faint humming sound coming from the rear, and it only does it when I press the gas pedal. When I let off the gas it stops. I wouldn't say it's a "whine". It's a faint "hum" that I can hear when the gas is applied. The guys at the shop did tell me that these new gears would make noise. They even showed it to me in the manual that the FRPP gears came in. He said that added noise doesn't necessarily mean that it's whining. He said that a "whine" will be very noticeable and very annoying. It's definitely not that sound.
So, any input you guys and gals can give me would be great, as far as what to expect noise and driving wise.
Should I baby it for a few hundred miles, and if so, why? Stock gears don't require it right?
Also, for those who have switched to the FRPP 4.10s, did you notice a sound difference AT ALL after yours were put in?
Thanks!
Dave
12-08-2009, 07:59 PM
#27
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Maryland
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Alright, this kinda answers one of my questions. After searching here's what I found from a Manufacturer, and it seems very similar to a lot of other posts I found.
Ring and pinion sets require a break-in period to prevent damage from overheating. Overloading or overheating will cause the lubrication to fail resulting in damage to the ring and pinion. In order to maximize the life of you differential, please follow this break-in procedure.
1. After installation, fill the differential with only premium national brand 80w90 or 85w140 GL-5 gear oil. Also add 4-8 ounces of Dane Spicer friction modifier to the oil if your differential contains a limited-slip or posi unit. Alert: Verify that the drain and fill plugs are properly secured.
2. Drive your vehicle easy for 30 minutes or approximately 20 miles. Avoid aggressive starts, hard stops and long distances at a steady speed.
3. Let the differential cool for at least 45 minutes.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 once.
5. It is not recommended to tow during the first 500 miles. Also avoid wide-open throttle acceleration for the first 300 miles.
6. When towing for the first time, drive easy for 20 miles let the differential cool for 45 minutes.
7. It is recommended to change the differential fluid between 2,500 and 5,000 miles. Use the lubricant specified in step 1. Subsequent oil changes should be performed every 20,000-30,000 miles.
Many differentials have been damaged by overheating, overloading, inadequate or improper lubrication. The above procedures may be a minor inconvenience, but if followed, your differential should prove to be one of the most dependable devices in your vehicles.
Ring and pinion sets require a break-in period to prevent damage from overheating. Overloading or overheating will cause the lubrication to fail resulting in damage to the ring and pinion. In order to maximize the life of you differential, please follow this break-in procedure.
1. After installation, fill the differential with only premium national brand 80w90 or 85w140 GL-5 gear oil. Also add 4-8 ounces of Dane Spicer friction modifier to the oil if your differential contains a limited-slip or posi unit. Alert: Verify that the drain and fill plugs are properly secured.
2. Drive your vehicle easy for 30 minutes or approximately 20 miles. Avoid aggressive starts, hard stops and long distances at a steady speed.
3. Let the differential cool for at least 45 minutes.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 once.
5. It is not recommended to tow during the first 500 miles. Also avoid wide-open throttle acceleration for the first 300 miles.
6. When towing for the first time, drive easy for 20 miles let the differential cool for 45 minutes.
7. It is recommended to change the differential fluid between 2,500 and 5,000 miles. Use the lubricant specified in step 1. Subsequent oil changes should be performed every 20,000-30,000 miles.
Many differentials have been damaged by overheating, overloading, inadequate or improper lubrication. The above procedures may be a minor inconvenience, but if followed, your differential should prove to be one of the most dependable devices in your vehicles.
12-08-2009, 08:26 PM
#28
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,280
Wow that kinda sucks. You get something new that will make your car awesome and you wait 300 miles to really use it on top of the delivery and install time? I hope it will be worth it cuz I want them lol.
12-08-2009, 09:09 PM
#29
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 234
Alright, this kinda answers one of my questions. After searching here's what I found from a Manufacturer, and it seems very similar to a lot of other posts I found.
Ring and pinion sets require a break-in period to prevent damage from overheating. Overloading or overheating will cause the lubrication to fail resulting in damage to the ring and pinion. In order to maximize the life of you differential, please follow this break-in procedure.
1. After installation, fill the differential with only premium national brand 80w90 or 85w140 GL-5 gear oil. Also add 4-8 ounces of Dane Spicer friction modifier to the oil if your differential contains a limited-slip or posi unit. Alert: Verify that the drain and fill plugs are properly secured.
2. Drive your vehicle easy for 30 minutes or approximately 20 miles. Avoid aggressive starts, hard stops and long distances at a steady speed.
3. Let the differential cool for at least 45 minutes.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 once.
5. It is not recommended to tow during the first 500 miles. Also avoid wide-open throttle acceleration for the first 300 miles.
6. When towing for the first time, drive easy for 20 miles let the differential cool for 45 minutes.
7. It is recommended to change the differential fluid between 2,500 and 5,000 miles. Use the lubricant specified in step 1. Subsequent oil changes should be performed every 20,000-30,000 miles.
Many differentials have been damaged by overheating, overloading, inadequate or improper lubrication. The above procedures may be a minor inconvenience, but if followed, your differential should prove to be one of the most dependable devices in your vehicles.
Ring and pinion sets require a break-in period to prevent damage from overheating. Overloading or overheating will cause the lubrication to fail resulting in damage to the ring and pinion. In order to maximize the life of you differential, please follow this break-in procedure.
1. After installation, fill the differential with only premium national brand 80w90 or 85w140 GL-5 gear oil. Also add 4-8 ounces of Dane Spicer friction modifier to the oil if your differential contains a limited-slip or posi unit. Alert: Verify that the drain and fill plugs are properly secured.
2. Drive your vehicle easy for 30 minutes or approximately 20 miles. Avoid aggressive starts, hard stops and long distances at a steady speed.
3. Let the differential cool for at least 45 minutes.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 once.
5. It is not recommended to tow during the first 500 miles. Also avoid wide-open throttle acceleration for the first 300 miles.
6. When towing for the first time, drive easy for 20 miles let the differential cool for 45 minutes.
7. It is recommended to change the differential fluid between 2,500 and 5,000 miles. Use the lubricant specified in step 1. Subsequent oil changes should be performed every 20,000-30,000 miles.
Many differentials have been damaged by overheating, overloading, inadequate or improper lubrication. The above procedures may be a minor inconvenience, but if followed, your differential should prove to be one of the most dependable devices in your vehicles.
I kinda assumed one needs to take it easy for a bit, but I didn't have specifics like you gave above. Since it was raining like hell on my way home from the shop and the next morning was my commute, I accomplished what you listed for 2 and 3. As far as WOT, I've been kicking it around having fun, but I am old fart and I'm not sure I've ever even done WOT in my ride - that means pushing the pedal all the way down to the floor right??? lol...
Have fun and enjoy!!!
12-08-2009, 10:09 PM
#30
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,172
Sorry to hear about the added cost dd, I think a complete bearing rebuild kit is only in the $100 or less range, but at least you know you have ford parts. Maybe others can chime in here...
I kinda assumed one needs to take it easy for a bit, but I didn't have specifics like you gave above. Since it was raining like hell on my way home from the shop and the next morning was my commute, I accomplished what you listed for 2 and 3. As far as WOT, I've been kicking it around having fun, but I am old fart and I'm not sure I've ever even done WOT in my ride - that means pushing the pedal all the way down to the floor right??? lol...
Have fun and enjoy!!!
I kinda assumed one needs to take it easy for a bit, but I didn't have specifics like you gave above. Since it was raining like hell on my way home from the shop and the next morning was my commute, I accomplished what you listed for 2 and 3. As far as WOT, I've been kicking it around having fun, but I am old fart and I'm not sure I've ever even done WOT in my ride - that means pushing the pedal all the way down to the floor right??? lol...
Have fun and enjoy!!!