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4.0L V6 Technical Discussions Any questions about engine, transmission, exhaust, tuners/CAI, or gearing can be asked here!

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Old 11-28-2013, 12:42 AM   #11
Bosshogoutlaw
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Vehicle: 2005 Mustang V6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DenIs2Fast4U View Post
I have NGK Iridiums and the Taylor 8mm wires and they have been great for me. Put them on at 65,000 miles, now have 72,000, idles perfectly smooth and response is great.

I would suggest you gap to the OE specs of .052-.056, personally i always go to the middle of the range so I gap .054 here. .065 is way big. And definitly use dielectric tune-up grease it will help with the conductivity.

Gapping them is always a must IMO even if they say pre-gapped from the manufacture. I always seem to have to adjust them slightly.

And yes use some anti-seize on the threads

After doing these things I would be supprised if it doesn't help your situation
Hey hopefully with my either changing out the spark plug or the wire(which ever bad) with gaping all the spark over again the adding anti seize with some dielectric grease will stop my low rough idling
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Old 11-28-2013, 08:21 AM   #12
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You don't "need" anti-seize or dielectric grease. While there are clearly good reasons to use both, you shouldn't have a problem with new plugs and wires because you didn't use them. Either one or more of your plugs is not properly gapped or not not fully seated or one or more of your wires are not fully seated or is just plain bad. If it were me, I'd start with replacing your new wires with the old (unless you knew them to be bad). If I had to guess, however, the easiest mistake to make when replacing plugs is to cross thread one and assume it's seated when it feels snug.
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:49 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Bosshogoutlaw View Post
Its been raining for the past few day so I haven't been under the hood yet. But last night when I got off work I made the stang relearn idle...ac max while idling for five minutes ac off while idling for five min then I drove ten miles on the highway. I drove home park the car an got up the next morning with a check engine light on. I never been so happy to see it in my life lol. Took it to advance auto to diagnose an what do they find? Mis fire cylinder 4...FINALLY I can drive with peace at mind again
Disconnect the battery (unless you did this for the wire/plug change)
and REALLY make your PCM relearn the idle strategies.
Adaptive learning is what its called, I believe.

btw, the coil pack sparks TWO cylinders at once the
the need for only 4 wires on the power connector instead
of 7 (one ground)

One cylinder sparks at TDC compression stroke
and another also sparks at TDC on the exhaust stroke.
Go figure.
Tachs and shift lights need to be set on 3 cylinders
instead of 6 for them to work correctly.
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Last edited by 157dB; 11-28-2013 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:43 PM   #14
flyhigh@mach1
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I'd like to get a new set of plug wires for my 4.0 (orig. factory still in at 75,000 mi), and I'm looking for same size/diameter wires so I can use factory wire looms. Same size but either blue or red. Any suggestions? And what is the MM size of my factory wires?
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:05 PM   #15
Bosshogoutlaw
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 157dB View Post
Disconnect the battery (unless you did this for the wire/plug change)
and REALLY make your PCM relearn the idle strategies.
Adaptive learning is what its called, I believe.

btw, the coil pack sparks TWO cylinders at once the
the need for only 4 wires on the power connector instead
of 7 (one ground)

One cylinder sparks at TDC compression stroke
and another also sparks at TDC on the exhaust stroke.
Go figure.
Tachs and shift lights need to be set on 3 cylinders
instead of 6 for them to work correctly.
Wait so how does that work? Do i install #1-#3 new sparks & wires...firer it up then install #4-#6?
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:05 PM
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