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Old 10-27-2015, 11:24 AM
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Spark Plug Replacement

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Old 08-26-2014, 07:43 AM
  #21  
2005Redfire6
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Originally Posted by 157dB
Self proclaimed ignorance?

http://www.mechanicsupport.com/articleTorqueWrench.html



https://www.i-car.com/pdf/advantage/...006/121106.pdf

You will be going no further when those one-time-use, torque-yield
fasteners start letting loose under stress...



Unless you use a Fumoto Drain Valve...


::yawn:: 82k miles, about 50k+ since I have done suspension stuff, still running like a champ!
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:46 PM
  #22  
turbo 2.8
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[QUOTE

http://www.mechanicsupport.com/articleTorqueWrench.html
The aircraft mechanic doesn't know unless the engineer who wrote the torque specification specified lubricant type and placement. It's the engineer's responsibility to specify the conditions of torque including where the lubricant that is to be applied. Without this specific information, the resulting joint tension can be almost anything.

Note: Almost all torque specifications published in aircraft repair manuals are deficient in this area. The mechanic cannot achieve proper joint tension with inadequate torque specifications. Joint failures are to be expected and are not caused by improper torque but by improper torque specifications.

As a licensed Airframe Mechanic I can tell you this is bull, It's the mechanics job to investigate and find the proper procedure. manufacturers specifications are always approved methods; however, the 43.13 provides acceptable methods wet and dry.
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Old 08-28-2014, 05:43 AM
  #23  
jz78817
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Originally Posted by 2005Redfire6
::yawn:: 82k miles, about 50k+ since I have done suspension stuff, still running like a champ!
"I haven't broken anything yet" isn't really a good way to support your position. Otherwise the idiot who ran my lug nuts up to like 400 lb-ft with an impact gun would have been "doing it right."

I'm serious, I had to use a 5 foot length of fence post and broke two lug wrenches trying to get those damn things loose. If I'd have been on the side of the road with a flat I'd have been screwed.
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Old 08-28-2014, 06:25 AM
  #24  
2005Redfire6
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Originally Posted by jz78817
"I haven't broken anything yet" isn't really a good way to support your position. Otherwise the idiot who ran my lug nuts up to like 400 lb-ft with an impact gun would have been "doing it right."

I'm serious, I had to use a 5 foot length of fence post and broke two lug wrenches trying to get those damn things loose. If I'd have been on the side of the road with a flat I'd have been screwed.
Didn't say I haven't broken anything, I am saying I have never had any issues with my car in the almost 10 years we have owned it. It has never seen a torque wrench.

Well regarding the idiot that ran your lug nuts up super tight, torque was against you in that instance huh? Yeah I don't use a torque wrench on those either, just snug them until they're tight!
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Old 08-28-2014, 06:10 PM
  #25  
Bitter
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If you feel better torquing your spark plugs, lug nuts of oil pan drain, you can't go wrong doing so. I'm just saying some things you need to torque, others you don't. I've changed my own spark plugs for 40 years and have never had a problem without a torque wrench. But for those who would feel more comfortable using one, don't let me dissuade you.
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Old 09-01-2014, 10:48 AM
  #26  
157dB
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Originally Posted by jz78817
"I haven't broken anything yet" isn't really a good way to support your position. Otherwise the idiot who ran my lug nuts up to like 400 lb-ft with an impact gun would have been "doing it right."

I'm serious, I had to use a 5 foot length of fence post and broke two lug wrenches trying to get those damn things loose. If I'd have been on the side of the road with a flat I'd have been screwed.
I would get those lug bolts/nuts replaced ASAP.
The bolts have been stressed to a point just short of failure.
They are now just waiting for the time when the most load
is being applied (worst time to break) during driving to let loose.
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:01 AM
  #27  
tradosaurus
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Originally Posted by Bitter
I have been changing my own spark plugs for over 40 years. I have never once used a torque wrench. To me, it's like putting a torque wrench on your oil pan plug. Snug them up tight without pulling a muscle doing so and you'll be fine.

Do you need anti-seize? No. Is it a good idea? Yes.
I use to think this too but after changing spark plugs in a 2006 Mustang I've changed my mind.

The plugs were difficult to get out and the threads were rusty. I had to rethread some of the holes. Without the torque wrench I wouldn't have know if the plugs were fully seated.

The torque wrench gives you the piece of mind that each spark plug is seated correctely and at the same depth.

Now I use a torque wrench when I change spark plugs.
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Old 10-10-2014, 08:00 AM
  #28  
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My local garage mechanic replaced my plugs with same OEM at 110,000 miles 3 years ago. $85.00. No muss, No fuss. Mechanic said my original OEM plugs were still good. Maybe because I use only Tier 1 gasoline??
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Old 12-21-2014, 08:37 PM
  #29  
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You can tell who all the 'old school' guy are here as well as the 'kids'. Back in my kid years, I crewed on a friend's race car. I was amazed how much he knew. His take on torque wrenches? Cranks, connecting rods, heads -- by all means. Any thing else was and I quote, "If your wrist doesn't know what 5, 10, 15, 30, and 45 foot/pounds feels like, you are not wrenching on my car."

I understand needing to quantify things, I do it when I am researching something, but when you do something enough you know by feel if it is right. Needless to say, I understand 2005Redfire6's comment about not using a torque wrench. I have one, but haven't used it in a very long time.
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