Got a few codes, help.
12-28-2016, 07:17 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Oregon
Posts: 30
Got a few codes, help.
New to me '10 V6. I've had it for a couple weeks. Few days ago I took it on an hour drive mostly highway. Ran great. Coming home a few hours later ,same route back, CEL comes on 15 minutes from home. Here are the codes I got using the scan tool from Autozone. B1318, C1963, P0128 & P1000
The car seems to run cold and the idle is not smooth. Any help is greatly welcome!
Regards
SinnyD
The car seems to run cold and the idle is not smooth. Any help is greatly welcome!
Regards
SinnyD
12-29-2016, 07:03 AM
#2
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 421
https://lmr.com/products/Mustang-DTC...-SVT-Lightning
http://www.cjponyparts.com/resources/mustang-dtc-codes
I do not see several of those codes that you got, are you sure the tool was cleared from the last use?
http://www.cjponyparts.com/resources/mustang-dtc-codes
I do not see several of those codes that you got, are you sure the tool was cleared from the last use?
12-29-2016, 01:16 PM
#4
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
New to me '10 V6. I've had it for a couple weeks. Few days ago I took it on an hour drive mostly highway. Ran great. Coming home a few hours later ,same route back, CEL comes on 15 minutes from home. Here are the codes I got using the scan tool from Autozone. B1318, C1963, P0128 & P1000
The car seems to run cold and the idle is not smooth. Any help is greatly welcome!
Regards
SinnyD
The car seems to run cold and the idle is not smooth. Any help is greatly welcome!
Regards
SinnyD
C1963 - is a stability control code
P1000 - is a readiness failed code meaning the PCM didn't receive the signals from all the sensors for emissions. That one will go away on its own after the root problem is fixed and it gets the signals it's expecting.
For the record a P0128 is not typically a thermostat issue but rather a coolant temp sensor issue. If your thermostat were stuck closed, the car would be over heating. If it were stuck open, it typically would not throw a code. It would run cold but not necessarily rough.
Given the B1318 and C1963 code (if they are related to your venicle) I'd suspect a bad or failing alternator. It may charge OK but a bad diode will send a messed up sine wave that will mess up the signals from various sensors. You can only see a failed diode on an Oscilloscope. The messed up sine wave can also mess with the signal from cam sensor which is critical to the fuel map and would give a rough idle or even stall the car out.
The only other way to be certain if those first two codes are relevant is to have another code scan done or buy your own.
Once you confirm all of the codes, you'll have a better idea of what to look at.
Last edited by Derf00; 12-29-2016 at 01:18 PM.
12-29-2016, 01:38 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Oregon
Posts: 30
B1318 - is a Battery charging code
C1963 - is a stability control code
P1000 - is a readiness failed code meaning the PCM didn't receive the signals from all the sensors for emissions. That one will go away on its own after the root problem is fixed and it gets the signals it's expecting.
For the record a P0128 is not typically a thermostat issue but rather a coolant temp sensor issue. If your thermostat were stuck closed, the car would be over heating. If it were stuck open, it typically would not throw a code. It would run cold but not necessarily rough.
Given the B1318 and C1963 code (if they are related to your venicle) I'd suspect a bad or failing alternator. It may charge OK but a bad diode will send a messed up sine wave that will mess up the signals from various sensors. You can only see a failed diode on an Oscilloscope. The messed up sine wave can also mess with the signal from cam sensor which is critical to the fuel map and would give a rough idle or even stall the car out.
The only other way to be certain if those first two codes are relevant is to have another code scan done or buy your own.
Once you confirm all of the codes, you'll have a better idea of what to look at.
C1963 - is a stability control code
P1000 - is a readiness failed code meaning the PCM didn't receive the signals from all the sensors for emissions. That one will go away on its own after the root problem is fixed and it gets the signals it's expecting.
For the record a P0128 is not typically a thermostat issue but rather a coolant temp sensor issue. If your thermostat were stuck closed, the car would be over heating. If it were stuck open, it typically would not throw a code. It would run cold but not necessarily rough.
Given the B1318 and C1963 code (if they are related to your venicle) I'd suspect a bad or failing alternator. It may charge OK but a bad diode will send a messed up sine wave that will mess up the signals from various sensors. You can only see a failed diode on an Oscilloscope. The messed up sine wave can also mess with the signal from cam sensor which is critical to the fuel map and would give a rough idle or even stall the car out.
The only other way to be certain if those first two codes are relevant is to have another code scan done or buy your own.
Once you confirm all of the codes, you'll have a better idea of what to look at.
First thing I will do is scan the codes again to be sure which ones are actually for my vehicle. As far as the t-stat sensor goes should I just replace it or do the whole shebang and replace the housing with aluminum, new t-stat and sensor all at once?
I can also test the alternator for AC noise. What are the acceptable parameters for AC output? What is the passing\failing point?
This is a big help, so thank you.
Regards
-SinnyD
01-16-2017, 01:46 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Oregon
Posts: 30
Quick update guys. I went and borrowed the scan gauge from a different parts store today. This unit was much nicer to work with. The P0128 code was present as expected. I bought a new coolant temp sensor and t-stat as well that will go in later this week. I was able to run a test on the alternator. I had to run the rpms over 2000 for 20 seconds for the test which came back good. My last vehicle was well known for the alternator messing up electrical systems due to excessive sine waves. Thanks of the helpful responses!