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This write up is presented by newb2000GT
JLT RAI Install (Performed on a 2000 GT)
· Removing the stock intake. I started with the stock air box. Remove the bolt attaching it to the fender lip and save it for reuse on the heat shield.
· Yank the Q-Bert-esque snorkel out of the fender well.
· I then loosened all of the hose clamps (MAF, TB locations).
· Unplug the MAF connection and the IAT Sensor if equipped (96-01 may have it).
· Unplug the PCV and IAC hoses.
· Remove the unit in one piece for disassembly outside of the car.
· If you have an IAT Sensor, remove it from the stock ductwork and set aside for reinstallation.
· After disconnecting the harness, just twist and pull the IAT Sensor to remove it from the stock ductwork.
· Unbolt the MAF from the filter housing and set the four bolts aside since replacements are included in the kit.
· Using the provided bolts, bolt the MAF to the aluminum filter adapter.
· Use some WD-40 on the MAF reducer to aid in getting it on. The JLT directions say to clamp the filter on first but don’t. This was the single hardest part of the install and it required two sets of hands to get mine on. I have a blood blister and two broken thumbnails while my wife suffered similar injuries. Anyway, the trick was to get the reducer onto the MAF as far as it would go and have one person hold it together. The second set of hands needs to work the edge of the reducer over the MAF from the inside of the reducer. The rubber needs to be significantly stretched to get it over the MAF. I also recommend removing the hose clamp completely so that there is nothing in the way of the stretching activities.
· Slide filter onto filter adapter attached to MAF and tighten clamp. Don’t get bashful with the clamp. Slide the clamp right up to the adapter so that when you tighten it, it doesn’t slide off of the adapter.
· If you have an IAT sensor, use a ¾” spade drill bit to create a hole for the supplied IAT Sensor grommet that is included. ¾” may look a little small but the grommet fits perfectly. Make sure it is far enough from the end of the tube but not too far so that the plug can be reattached without freeing up more length of wire. I followed JLT’s directions and drilled the hole on the bottom of the tube for a cleaner look.
· Insert grommet and sensor if required.
· Slide tube into large end of MAF reducer, which should already be on the MAF. It doesn’t slide on easy but it is far easier to get on than the MAF side. A little WD-40 and some elbow grease get it right on. Make sure you slide it on all the way as the reducer will gobble up over 2” of tube. Tighten clamp.
· Install 4” piece of 5/8 tubing (included) to the PCV connection.
· Shove the filter end of the assembly up behind the headlight and lower the TB end of the assembly down to meet the TB.
· I installed a piece of Velcro to the shock tower where the tube may rub. I wasn’t concerned about the paint as much as I was trying to reduce any potential noises from rubbing.
· Connect the IAT Sensor if equipped.
· Connect the MAF connector.
· Connect the IAC and PCV tubes.
· Slide TB coupler over TB and tighten clamp.
· Install the heat shield using the stock bolt removed in the first step.
· Double-check all of the hose clamps and connectors, get all of your tools out of the engine bay, and start it up!
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I found that when I installed the JLT True CAI I didn't have enough room to open my oil cap. The tabs that hold the oil fill neck onto the valve cover broke and I had to fish two of them out of my cam. Now the neck just sits onto the valve cover. It sucks because now i'm going to have to replace my valve covers with aftermarket ones because I can't find any used ones anywhere.
Other than that, the CAI works ok.
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04 Mustang GT
*325 RWHP/395 Torque - *Underated since bottle pressure was way off and front 02 sensors were unhooked.
Mods:
100 shot of Nitrous with WOT Switch and Window Switch, DFX Centerforce Clutch, Fidanza FW, Fiore FWAD, QA1 K-Member, QA1 Control Arms, QA1 Coilovers, Steeda Aluminum RCAs, Eibach Sport Rear Springs, 3.73 FR Gear, MAC Ceramic LTs, O.R. ProChamber, Flowmasters, JLT in-fender CAI, Steeda UD Pulleys, Accufab 70MM TB & Plenum, MGW Shifter, Complete Energy Suspension upgrades.
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