New Features: Ford Mustang Knowledge Base
The unofficial resource center for Mustang owners and enthusiasts
Ford Mustang Forums - Ford Mustang Classifieds - MustangForums.com Photo Galleries - MustangForums.com Chat Room - Create an Account - Mustang News


Go Back   MustangForums.com > Ford Mustang Tech > 4.6 (Modular) Mustang
Welcome to Mustang Forums!
Welcome to Mustang Forums.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-26-2006, 03:32 PM   #1
HRnB
Administrator
 
HRnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Vehicle: Ride of the Month
Location: Southern California
Posts: 22,614
Default Tech articles and how to's (Updated Often)

Hey guys!

Planning on installing that new t/b plenum this weekend? Or how about a catback or X-pipe? Underdrive pulleys? Anything? Chin Spoiler?

Make sure you take picutres of the installation process and do a technical, thorough writeup and submit to me via e-mail (acer2428@aol.com) or PM ANY Site Moderator and if it makes muster, the Admins might be so kind as to bless you with a contributor tag!

It's not that hard to do and we're trying to expand our tech "How To's" and who better than the members to do them!

Thanks all!

Acer & Staff


This arrangement of tech articles was provided by Acer2428 & Edited by Site Moderators.
Thanks Everyone. [sm=smiley20.gif]

How to: Tint your head lights and tail lights

How to: Install HIDs

Bad Boys of the 4.6 Section

Rides of the 4.6 Section

Texas Hot Rods 2v In the 12's On a Budget, With Videos

Watch Before Posting


Brake configurations with Bullit Wheels

Moving Rear Spoiler Back on 99-00 Mustang

5 Components To a 12 sec N/A 99-04 GT

Basic Info/ FAQ

Bolt On dyno testing

Mustang Suspension Information

N/A Cobra vs. GT Differences?

Mach 1 Grill Delete Part #


Methanol Injection Facts

Gas Mileage

Does Your 4.6 stall/die at idle or cruising speed?

Spark Plug Info

Modular Motors and Lifters: No

97 Cobra Engine Rebuild

Camshafts?


4V Head Info


T-45, 3650: Manual Transmissions
( See also T-45 to T-3650 Swap How To!)

TKO 500/600/T56 Swap Information

THE Gear Thread

Basic Bolt-Ons

Tuner Info


Dyno Expectations and Advice

What Octane do I need?

The Ins-n-Outs Of Lowering Your Stang
( See also Basic Suspension Install How To)

Throttle Body and Plenum Comparisons

96-98 PI Headswap Info

4.6 Exhaust Sound Clips

Gear Calculator

Plastic Intake Lawsuit Info

Tire and Wheel Size Calculator

Mustang Trouble Codes

Online Ford Repair Manual

Interesting facts about injectors, by 01Steed

03-04 Cobra bumper swapFAQs

How To: Air Silencer Removal

How To: Changing Your Spark Plugs

How To: Gas Pedal Mod

How To: JLT Cold Air Installation

How To: Throttle Body and Plenum Install

How To: Aftermarket Shifter Install

How To: T-45 to T-3650 Swap

How To: Cobra Brake Swap

How To: Speed Cal Install

How To: Electronic Gauge Install (99-04)

How To: SLP LineLock Install

How To: Basic Suspension Install

How To: Underdrive Pulley Install

How To: IAC Rev Mod (Fixing hanging RPMS)


How To: Make Mach/Bullitt guages work in a GT

How To: Make your own MIL's

How To: Window Repair


How To: Paint Interior Trim

How To: Wash your engine bay






This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
__________________


Peace, Love, Rock, Sex and BBQ ~HRnB 2009

Last edited by ZW99GT; 12-16-2008 at 03:12 AM.
HRnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2008, 03:56 PM   #2
klfutrelle
4th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,078
Default RE: Tech articles and how to's (Updated Often)

L/t header install! Can we add this to the sticky?
http://www.fnsweet.com/garage/lt_install/index.shtml


Just Added - Before and After Dyno Results (.jpg, 74kb)
The results are in - increase of 20rwph and 15rwtq!! Here are the steps I took to install BBK Long Tube Headers on my 2001 Mustang GT Bullitt. Following is the list of parts used, items needed for install, the steps involved, and a thorough description of each step. The nice part is the whole install can be done with common hand tools. Air tools could be used for a lot of the steps and they would make the job go faster, but I did the entire job with hand tools and little elbow grease. Parts: [ul]BBK Long Tube Headers
BBK Shorty H-pipe
Bassani Gaskets
O2 wiring harness extender
Hi-temp RTV Gasket sealer
Hi-temp thread locker[/ul] Tools: [ul][*]Jack Stands (at least 2) and ramps. You could use 4 jack stands[*]Floor Jack. (2 is preferable, but could be done with 1)[*]Lug nut wrench and key for wheel locks[*]2X4 or 2X6 about 12" long[*]Socket Wrenches (ratchet) (1/4", 3/8" ½")[*]Sockets sized 8mm, 13mm, 15mm, 21mm, 24mm ( ¼", 3/8", ½")[*]Deep Sockets sized 13mm, 15mm, 18mm (3/8". ½")[*]Socket Extensions 3", 6", 12" (1/4", 3/8", 1/2")[/ul] [ul][*]Open-end wrenches sized 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm[*]Open-end stubby wrench 13mm[*]Torx bit sized E8 (1/4")[*]Large crescent wrench[*]Breaker Bar (½")[*]Long screwdriver or prybar[*]Hammer[*]Pliers[*]Wire cutters (Dikes)[*]Dremel tool[*]Zip-ties[*]Coat hangers[*]Can or box for loose parts[/ul] Quick steps:
(Click on step for full description) [ol][*] Jack car up and support on stands/ramps (loosen lug nuts on front rims first)[*]Remove front rims[*]Disconnect the battery[*]Remove Brake calipers[*]Remove rotors[*]Remove tie-rods from spindles[*]Remove sway bar end links[*]Remove struts from spindles[*]Remove ABS sensor from spindle[*]Remove Springs[*]Remove steering shaft[*]Remove steering rack[*]Remove rear g-load brace from K-member[*]Support the engine[*]Remove motor mount nuts[*]Remove K-member[*]Remove motor mounts[*]Remove X-pipe/H-pipe portion of exhaust system[*]Remove exhaust manifolds[*]Remove oil dipstick tube on driver's side[*]Install new gaskets[/ol][*] Install headers[*]Install oil dipstick tube[*]Install motor mounts[*]Connect O2 Harness extensions[*]Install K-member[*]Install motor mount bolts[*]Install steering rack[*]Reattach steering shaft[*]Install G-load brace on K-member[*]Install Springs[*]Reattach ABS wiring harnesses[*]Reattach Struts to spindles[*]Reattach sway bar end links[*]Reattach tie-rod ends[*]Attach Calipers[*]Put rims on[*]Install new H-pipe to headers and cat-back[*]Attach rear O2 harness[*]Reconnect battery[*]Lower the car[*]Go for a test drive The long description:
(Click thumbnails for full-sized image) [ol][*] Support the car on some combination of jack stands and ramps. I chose to use ramps to support the rear of the car because I prefer not to have the car on 4 jackstands. Loosen the lug nuts on the front rims before raising the car to facilitate removing the rims once the car is jacked.[*]Remove the front rims from the vehicle using a 13/16" deep socket or lug wrench that came with the vehicle.[*]Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery using an 8mm socket or box-end wrench.[/ol] [hr][*] Remove the brake calipers from the spindles on both sides of the vehicle using a 15mm socket and a breaker bar to get the 2 bolts loose. Then use a standard socket wrench to finish removing the bolts. The calipers need to be hung out of the way using a coat hanger or a strong piece of wire. Use a coat hanger, doubled up, to support the caliper by running the wire through a hole in the strut tower and twisting the hanger around the top of the strut mount.
Brake Caliper Removed
[hr][*] Remove the rotors from both sides of the vehicle. There are 2 retaining cli
__________________
ORIGINAL: Margarita Girl

I'll foam his ass then hit him with the bat.

klfutrelle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2008, 02:09 PM   #3
Gadrifter
1st Gear Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location:
Posts: 56
Default RE: Tech articles and how to's (Updated Often)

that covers it!
__________________
FU#k Mastercard it pays to Discover!

Gadrifter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2008, 07:42 PM   #4
davis3005
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1
Default RE: Tech articles and how to's (Updated Often)

Hello, I have a 96 cobra and just installed a spec clutch and flywheel. Now Its almost like my cable is too long now. when I release the pedal its friction point is only about a inch from the floor and it is ajusted all the way.
davis3005 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2008, 04:04 AM   #5
klfutrelle
4th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,078
Default RE: Tech articles and how to's (Updated Often)

Clutch install

i decided to replace the clutch in my 01 GT, the throwout bearing was squeaking and the clutch chattered badly. so i ordered a spec stage 1 kit from american muscle and decided to tackle this project myself. i will give a basic walkthrough with some pictures to help guide your way! enjoy!


first, get your car supported as high as practical. if you dont have enough jackstands, wood blocks will also work.



next, remove your midpipe. the bolts holding the pipe to the catback are easy to remove. just let your catback hang it will be ok theres no need to support it with anything.



the bolts holding the midpipe to the manifold can be tricky to get to. you will need an extension and a swivel joint to reach them



be careful, that midpipe will fall down once you get the nuts off the exhaust manifold bolts! remove the four plugs for the o2 sensors and remove the pipe from underneath the car.



next, drain the transmission fluid. make sure you do this before you remove the driveline or else you'll have a mess to clean up!

next step, remove the driveline. dont panic, the bolts look funky but they are just 16 point bolts and a normal 16 point socket will fit them. you might need a swivel joint to get to these as well

after you get the bolts off, let the rear of the driveline hang down and gently pull it from the rear of the transmission. it should slide out easily. once removed, set it aside but make sure you dont get the part that goes back into the tranny dirty.

up next, the starter. first disconnect the battery, then proceed. there are three bolts holding the starter on, the top one is tricky to reach. i got it off by using a 6 inch extension and 3/8 ratchet. the ratchet has room to turn in the small space in front of the starter.

you're getting there!

now its time to remove the shifter. remove the shifter knob and the shifter bezel. take the rubber inner boot off and then unbolt the shifter. this part is pretty self explainatory.

next step is the clutch cable. there is only one screw holding the shield onto the transmission. remove the screw and pull it back and it will pop off. there is a clip holding the clutch cable to the transmission housing that will have to be removed, and there is also a bracket on the clutch fork that will need to be loosened so you can remove the cable. this process is simple, dont sweat it!

now you're ready to start unbolting the transmission. leave the bottom two bolts (one on each side) until last, you will need them to hold the transmission in place for the next coulpe steps.

place a jack under the rear of the transmission and remove the four crossmember bolts from the frame, lower the jack SLOWLY and allow the engine to rock back on the mounts, this will make it much easier to reach the top two bolts of the bellhousing and also the two wiring harnesses you will need to unplug that are located on the top of the transmission.

remove the bolts holding the transmission to the engine. they can be tricky to get to, you will have to experiment with different extensions and swivels to get the right angle. the top two are difficult to reach, i got them out using a two foot extension and a swivel. now you need to disconnect the two transmission wiring harnesses from the main harness. they are both located on the top of the bellhousing and you might be able to reach them from the bottom, but i got mine both disconnected from the top.

once you have all but the bottom two bolts removed, place the proper support under the transmission. i used two jacks in the process just to be safe. it would not be fun to drop your transmission on the ground and crack the case!

once supported, remove the last two bolts and slowly wiggle it free. it should pull straight back with a decent amount of convincing. lower the rear first and as its going down in the rear, pull it back to clear the input shaft from the pressure plate. once you get your transmission out, pull it aside where you can work on it.

now, you need to remove the pressure plate and the flywheel. this is self explainatory, but be careful because it might fall off when you take the bolts out.



next you need to take off the flywheel. once you get all the bolts out, you might need to tap it loose with a mallet or use a screwdriver to pry it off the crankshaft. watch out because its heavy and it will likely fall off when it comes loose.

after you get the flywheel off, remove the old pilot bearing. this can be difficult and you best bet is to go to autozone and rent a pilot bearing puller. you will need a slide hammer too so if you dont have one you can also rent one at autozone.

you will need to take your flywheel and get it resurfaced. i wouldn't advise putting a new clutch in without doing so because it is likely to chatter!

now, clean the hole out of the crankshaft and install the new pilot bearing. you will need to use a rubber mallet to hit it in because it fits tightly. make the side with the two notches on the pilot bearing goes in first, that way if you ever have to replace it again, the puller will have something to grab on to.




next, get your nicely resurfaced flywheel mounted and torqued to factory specifications (60lbs). dont forget to clean it off with a rag and some acetone when you're done to get all the grease off!



install clutch disc and pressure plate. make sure the disc is facing the right way or you'll have to do it all over again! use the supplied alignment tool with your kit and tighten it down to specifications. remove the tool once the pressure plate is tight.


now do the new throwout bearing. its a good idea to lube the pivot point and the shaft to keep it operating smoothly and quietly

it is much easier to have a buddy help you, but using two jacks i managed to wrestle the transmission back into place


you will need to line up the input shaft with the pressure plate


at this point it may become difficult to get the rest of the way in. you will have to wiggle it back and forth to get the input shaft into the pilot bearing.


yes, its in!! before you get too excited, hook up your clutch cable and make sure the clutch feels ok and disengages. this way you know there wont be any surprises when you get everything else finished!


now the rest of the process is simple, just reverse the order in which you took things off and you're all set! dont forget to break in your clutch and refill the transmission fluid!
__________________
ORIGINAL: Margarita Girl

I'll foam his ass then hit him with the bat.

klfutrelle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2009, 12:23 PM   #6
lizzyfan
Made Moderator
 
lizzyfan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Vehicle: 98 GT Blumurder
Location: Helaware
Posts: 11,302
Default

Courtesy of BlackMage
Mustang Replacement Floor Carpet (94-04)

http://www.americanmuscle.com/replac...4-install.html
__________________

Tuned by Matt at Performance Evolution
432 rwhp
426 tq

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dteal23 View Post
ass looks just like my car
lizzyfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2009, 08:07 AM   #7
lizzyfan
Made Moderator
 
lizzyfan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Vehicle: 98 GT Blumurder
Location: Helaware
Posts: 11,302
Default

Traction control disable


http://mustangforums.com/forum/6089074-post1.html
__________________

Tuned by Matt at Performance Evolution
432 rwhp
426 tq

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dteal23 View Post
ass looks just like my car
lizzyfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2009, 04:12 PM   #8
35annGT
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Vehicle: 1999/2004, ford, mustang gt/svt cobra
Location: texas
Posts: 19
Default

synchronizer replacement how to? thanks
35annGT is offline   Reply With Quote



Reply



Tags
bolt, e8, ford, iac, joint, mod, mount, mustang, rag, removal, rev, sn95, spoiler, torx, tos, tranny

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off
Forum Jump

Advertising

Featured Sponsors
New Sponsors
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:26 PM.

© Internet Brands, Inc.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.2.0

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company