Who has a wiring diagram for the Mach 1000?

[abrush]

O.k., long story short, I used to own a 2002 Mustang GT that had the factory installed Mach 1000 stereo system. Well a couple years ago I traded that car off and before doing so took out the entire trunk system. (Amplifiers and subs) I had cut the harness at the time to disconnect everything. Fast forward to today, I still have the amp and subs sitting in my basement and would like to use them in a 1970 Ford Bronco I am restoring. The system would fit perfectly behind the rear seat. I have a pioneer head unit that I would be hooking them up to. The problem is that I do not have a wiring diagram that shows where each of the wires on the unit were running. Does anyone have a schematic on this setup? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

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[cliffyk]

This is from the 2003 Shop manual--should be the same...

[Blk N Wht GT]

So I basically made/wrote/put together this stuff to convert the Mach 460 to the Mach 1000 so I hope this helps you out. You will need additional parts as well.
Here's the diagram (I have a larger size if you want. Just PM me and I'll email it to you)


Parts list: (which I can put together if you want or if you can't find the right parts)
12 ft. 8 gauge power wire with connectors (to go from battery to power the amps/subs)
1 ft. ground wire with connectors (to ground the subs to the car)
2 input plugs with shielded wire (to connect the additional Mach 1000 wiring to the Mach 460)
1 heavy duty fuse holder (to withstand underhood temperature extremities)
1 30 amp fuse
1 spade hoop

And here are the instructions based on the materials I used (starting with the factory Mach 460 Headunit, Amps, Speakers, Wiring):
Start by removing your negative ground wire on the battery for safety. You will be replacing the 2 male plugs that are now on the existing wiring harness that connects the 4 Mach 1000 amps together on the rack. Locate the 4 pin plug on the Mach 1000 with the GREEN/BLACK, BLUE/RED, GRAY/BLACK, and BLACK wires. This is your input. Cut this plug off and replace it with the pigtail plug that has the shorter gray wire with the red butt wire connectors on one end and the white plug on the other (A) and attach by doing the following: Strip and twist together the GREEN/BLACK wire from Mach 1000 to the butt connector with the BARE wire, the BLUE/RED from Mach 1000 to the butt connector with the WHITE wire and GRAY/BLACK from Mach 1000 to butt connector with BLACK wire. Tape all the individual connections with electrical tape and then tape all the wires together creating a nice, solid harness. The black wire from the Mach 1000 amp harness is not used so just tape up that wire. Locate the passenger side factory Mach 460 amp (D). This amp is mounted under the rear deck on coupes or on the floor in convertibles. There is a plug on each side of the amp. You will have to splice into the smaller of the 2 plugs (C). This plug will have GREEN/BLACK, BLUE/RED, and GRAY/BLACK wires. To splice, remove some of the insulation but DO NOT CUT THROUGH THE WIRE (that will make for some tedious soldering later on). You're only removing some insulation so you can expose the actual wires. You may have to trim back some of the outside insulation that houses these 3 wires with a razor blade to make it easier BUT BE SUPER CAREFUL!! Now connect the longer gray wire with the white connector on one end and bare wires on the other (B) by connecting the GREEN/BLACK wire from the small plug on the amp to the BARE wire, the BLUE/RED to WHITE and GRAY/BLACK to BLACK. -- Note: These connections may be different on older head unit models but from most of my experience, it has been as stated. -- Tape these connections separately and then wrap them up with electrical tape. Now cut and remove the other male plug from the Mach 1000 harness that has 6 wires. These will be your positive and negative wires. Take the 2 PURPLE/BLUE and 2 BLUE/WHITE wires and twist them all together. This will be your positive power supply wire. Trim away any excess wire in order to fit in into the butt connector that has the short red wire from (A) connected to the white connector. Crimp this connection so it doesn't come loose. Now take the remaining white connector with the long red wire (F) power supply wire and run this through the firewall to the battery. (Going through the firewall is fairly easy. There is a rubber grommet to the right of the steering column that easily pushes in from the engine bay. All you need to do is push it in enough to get the wire through and then push it back in as best as you can.) Attach the fuse (G) to the end of this wire by trimming and inserting the wire into the butt connector and crimp. Connect the other end of the fuse to the positive battery terminal. Twist all the GREEN/BLACK wires together that come off the Mach 1000 rack and this will be your negative power supply (ground) wire. Trim away any excess wire and connect to the 8 gauge black wire (E) with butt connector on one end and hoop spade on the other. Crimp this connection. Ground the end with the hoop spade by removing a bolt, placing it over the screw, and rebolting. (This could be on the amp rack or on the car. I did it on the car where there was bare metal exposed above the wheel well. The bare metal connection is better than a connection with paint in between the hoop spade and the metal.) Having a good ground will improve sound quality tremendously. Replace the negative ground wire on the battery. Done! Enjoy the new Mach 1000 system!

Hope this helps you out (or anyone else with Mach 1000 install questions).

[abrush]

Thanks!! Both the above replies will be a huge help.

Blk N Wht GT, I sent you a pm.

[Blk N Wht GT]

Replied (email).