Turbocharged Mustang GT?

[Fobra]

Originally Posted by kongdong Ok. So if I go with a procharger, which one should I get the P-1SC, the D-1SC, a 2-core, 3-core intercooler, forged internals, no forged internals, etc? Tell me what I need to ether keep up with a Shelby or at least smoke a lightly modded one. If it's close to what I need to smoke a vette then let me know that as well. Thanks everyone. You guys are great minus the oceanliner comment. j/k =D D-1 and not the sc

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[GTRACER88]

If you get a turbo kit do it right.

http://bgturbokits.com/store/index.p...roducts_id=364

[GT03 TJS]

Originally Posted by Tim99GT

Why not go to 14PSI?? do you have the big tube kit? What stage p+p heads and cams? Need some details here.

+1 for it being great to smoke vettes and spend less money!! havnt got my hands on a Z06 yet but the stocker sub par vettes are fun as hell to play with.

yea, i have the big tube kit, have VT stage II ported heads (r.i.p. lol) and VT stage II blower cams (cushman motorsports now, same grind) sitting ontop of a VT 302 stroker. My sig is a little outdated as now I have Mac LT headers and O/R prochamber.

at this point, im not bothering with swapping the pullies again and paying for another dyno tune for a few reasons. a) the shop that i used to go to that was literally 10 miles from my house had ownership changes and my tuner opened up a shop about 70 miles away and havent had the time to check it out yet...aaaaaand b) I'm likely going to just get the Kenne Bell 2.6 kit and see how much power I can make before my current fuel system completely taps out, so why bother with a mere 2 psi and a retune... I'm also holding out on mods to see what the new Trickflow heads can do, and if maybe a ported set of those would help out.

For the O/P, you can probably beat a stock GT500 with a light boosted turbo system and supporting mods, but they've got the advantage in the ease-of-potential category. They have a 5.4L forged 4V motor that a simple pulley swap/exhaust/tune can put well over 500 rwhp...and thats 'lightly modded' for a GT500. As everyone stated, if you're going to want to get anywhere near the POTENTIAL of a shelby, you're going to want to start with the motor, and your fuel system... not the turbo...good things come to those who wait lol. Get a strong rotating assembly, a set of ported heads, and some turbo-specific cams ground. Then with relativly low boost on a turbo system, like 8-10 psi, you'll be glad you did it right the first time as you blow past the rich old men in their shelby's.

[kongdong]

Originally Posted by GT03 TJS

yea, i have the big tube kit, have VT stage II ported heads (r.i.p. lol) and VT stage II blower cams (cushman motorsports now, same grind) sitting ontop of a VT 302 stroker. My sig is a little outdated as now I have Mac LT headers and O/R prochamber.

at this point, im not bothering with swapping the pullies again and paying for another dyno tune for a few reasons. a) the shop that i used to go to that was literally 10 miles from my house had ownership changes and my tuner opened up a shop about 70 miles away and havent had the time to check it out yet...aaaaaand b) I'm likely going to just get the Kenne Bell 2.6 kit and see how much power I can make before my current fuel system completely taps out, so why bother with a mere 2 psi and a retune... I'm also holding out on mods to see what the new Trickflow heads can do, and if maybe a ported set of those would help out.

For the O/P, you can probably beat a stock GT500 with a light boosted turbo system and supporting mods, but they've got the advantage in the ease-of-potential category. They have a 5.4L forged 4V motor that a simple pulley swap/exhaust/tune can put well over 500 rwhp...and thats 'lightly modded' for a GT500. As everyone stated, if you're going to want to get anywhere near the POTENTIAL of a shelby, you're going to want to start with the motor, and your fuel system... not the turbo...good things come to those who wait lol. Get a strong rotating assembly, a set of ported heads, and some turbo-specific cams ground. Then with relativly low boost on a turbo system, like 8-10 psi, you'll be glad you did it right the first time as you blow past the rich old men in their shelby's.

Why can't I put on the turbo first? Just curious.

[2000AZ5.0GT]

alright, nice knowing we have plenty of noobs with zero experience giving advice Oo

Some of you know what your talking about, but lets get down to business.

if you want to build a RELIABLE turbo mustang, be prepared to spend in excess of $30,000 not including the price of the car.

You have NO idea what it will take.

You have
1. weak shortblock
2. crappy heads
3. poor intake manifold
4. No room in the engine bay itself
5. weak transmission
6. weak rear end
7. weak chassis
8. sh*tty fuel system
9. not enough gauges
10. ****ty suspension

and you'd need
11. Turbo System

SO, 30k should about cover all that. You may get lucky, but if you do stuff CORRECTLY and don't cut corners, that's what your looking at.

That would put you anywhere from 500rwhp - 1000rwhp (all for that 30k). At which point, you'd be able to manhandle ANYTHING on the planet.

You'd need at the very least a forged bottom end, including a nice Forged Steel Crank, Forged Rods, Forged & Dished (lower compression) pistons.

You'd need a substantial Fuel System, so something like the A1000, return style, and you won't have to worry about Spiking fuel Pressure

Either a Beefed up transmission, or a nice heavy duty one. You could probably get away with a built 4R700W for around $2500

You'd need your torque box's welded, 31 spline axles, and a better carrier (ie better differential) than you have now. You'd need a good lower/upper control arm set up, preferably adjustable, a good adjustable coilover setup. And the Tubular front suspension

Heads would need to be reworked so you aren't creating too much heat, and some good cams that allow for the turbo to create boost, not loose it through the valves.

at least a Trick Flow intake manifold, not the cheapo plastic one.

You'd need at the bare minimum an 8pt roll cage, subframe connectors, Driveshaft loop. Otherwise, your just going to twist the frame so much that you'll eventually start wrinkling the fenders. Ask the Fox body guys how they like having their rear fenders start go get wavy after a while

You'd really have to make sure EVERYTHING is tighetned down, otherwise your going to hate yourself working on the car trying to tighten a loose hoseclamp or something simple like that. These really aren't pushrods, there is little to NO Room in the engine bay to work.


OR, you could lighten the crap out of the car. When I was racing my car, without me in it, it was at 2900lbs.

Lighten it, redo the suspension, and run about ~400rwhp with a good V2-SQ or SC trim, or maybe even a really pulleyd T-trim.

at that point you'd probably be able to stick with or edge out both Z06's and GT500KR's, but it would be more weight/suspension work than just merely outpowering them.

or, you could go the NA route. Get a Tubular K-member for a 1994-1995 Mustang (it will bolt right in), and bolt in something based off of a Windsor, so a 351 or bigger.

That would probably be the cheapest route to go, you could probably find a donor motor in a junkyard somewhere for not much cash, rebuild it for a few hundred bucks, spend about $500 in fuel stuff, and be done.

That is, unless you live somewhere that has inspection. In most states, (a few places are different), it's illegal to run a carb on a street car that originally came with EFI.

You could run a Standalone engine management unit, either FAST XFi, or Big Stuff 3. Either will cost around 3k.


SOoooo, either way you go about it, your going to have to spend some cash.

A 400rwhp 2900lb car is probably your cheapest option. It's closed to stripped out, and you'd still need chassis stiffening, a coilover suspension, and some lightweight seats, but it's by far less money than the other options.

I'd have to guesstimate that compared to when I made my pass, (11.0) my raceweight was about 400lbs lighter. So I would assume that had I been at 2900lbs, I probably could have run a good .5 seconds faster, but I'm not that big into drag racing, so idk

anyway, all that ^
will give you something to think about

[silverstang1996]

I like the guys post above.

[piledriver]

Originally Posted by kongdong

I basically want to able to ether smoke or keep up with a Shelby.

I smoked a Shelby just the other day, and that's with missing 3rd. they ain't all that, especially weighing 4000 lbs.

[kongdong]

Originally Posted by 2000AZ5.0GT

alright, nice knowing we have plenty of noobs with zero experience giving advice Oo

Some of you know what your talking about, but lets get down to business.

if you want to build a RELIABLE turbo mustang, be prepared to spend in excess of $30,000 not including the price of the car.

You have NO idea what it will take.

You have
1. weak shortblock
2. crappy heads
3. poor intake manifold
4. No room in the engine bay itself
5. weak transmission
6. weak rear end
7. weak chassis
8. sh*tty fuel system
9. not enough gauges
10. ****ty suspension

and you'd need
11. Turbo System

SO, 30k should about cover all that. You may get lucky, but if you do stuff CORRECTLY and don't cut corners, that's what your looking at.

That would put you anywhere from 500rwhp - 1000rwhp (all for that 30k). At which point, you'd be able to manhandle ANYTHING on the planet.

You'd need at the very least a forged bottom end, including a nice Forged Steel Crank, Forged Rods, Forged & Dished (lower compression) pistons.

You'd need a substantial Fuel System, so something like the A1000, return style, and you won't have to worry about Spiking fuel Pressure

Either a Beefed up transmission, or a nice heavy duty one. You could probably get away with a built 4R700W for around $2500

You'd need your torque box's welded, 31 spline axles, and a better carrier (ie better differential) than you have now. You'd need a good lower/upper control arm set up, preferably adjustable, a good adjustable coilover setup. And the Tubular front suspension

Heads would need to be reworked so you aren't creating too much heat, and some good cams that allow for the turbo to create boost, not loose it through the valves.

at least a Trick Flow intake manifold, not the cheapo plastic one.

You'd need at the bare minimum an 8pt roll cage, subframe connectors, Driveshaft loop. Otherwise, your just going to twist the frame so much that you'll eventually start wrinkling the fenders. Ask the Fox body guys how they like having their rear fenders start go get wavy after a while

You'd really have to make sure EVERYTHING is tighetned down, otherwise your going to hate yourself working on the car trying to tighten a loose hoseclamp or something simple like that. These really aren't pushrods, there is little to NO Room in the engine bay to work.


OR, you could lighten the crap out of the car. When I was racing my car, without me in it, it was at 2900lbs.

Lighten it, redo the suspension, and run about ~400rwhp with a good V2-SQ or SC trim, or maybe even a really pulleyd T-trim.

at that point you'd probably be able to stick with or edge out both Z06's and GT500KR's, but it would be more weight/suspension work than just merely outpowering them.

or, you could go the NA route. Get a Tubular K-member for a 1994-1995 Mustang (it will bolt right in), and bolt in something based off of a Windsor, so a 351 or bigger.

That would probably be the cheapest route to go, you could probably find a donor motor in a junkyard somewhere for not much cash, rebuild it for a few hundred bucks, spend about $500 in fuel stuff, and be done.

That is, unless you live somewhere that has inspection. In most states, (a few places are different), it's illegal to run a carb on a street car that originally came with EFI.

You could run a Standalone engine management unit, either FAST XFi, or Big Stuff 3. Either will cost around 3k.


SOoooo, either way you go about it, your going to have to spend some cash.

A 400rwhp 2900lb car is probably your cheapest option. It's closed to stripped out, and you'd still need chassis stiffening, a coilover suspension, and some lightweight seats, but it's by far less money than the other options.

I'd have to guesstimate that compared to when I made my pass, (11.0) my raceweight was about 400lbs lighter. So I would assume that had I been at 2900lbs, I probably could have run a good .5 seconds faster, but I'm not that big into drag racing, so idk

anyway, all that ^
will give you something to think about

Extremely informative. Thank you so very much. That's way to darn much for me. My original plan was to go with a procharger kit. If it's not too much trouble for you could you PLEASE tell me what I would need to do to smoke a Shelby and what it would cost me. I know you just gave me a lot of information and I SUPER APPRECIATE IT but this is the only other option I could go. If you choose to respond then thank you, if not thank you anyways. You've been a TREMENDOUS HELP!!!!!!