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You've already got a decent amount of basic mods and 4.10's which are great for n/a 2V's. Like everyone has stated, I would first start off with subframe connectors, like ASAP. I should be the first suspension mod you do or first mod to the car period.
What kinda steeda springs do you have? If they are the steeda sports, I heard they are suppose to be pretty good for the strip.
I say get some subframe connectors, control arms, and then shocks and struts. I am planning on getting strange shocks/struts all around. They are petty inexpensive and are all 10 way adjustable and I've heard nothing but good things about them.
not sure which springs, they were on the car when i bought it used from a dealer. they are dark blue in color and have steeda printed on the coils, looks like they lower about 1 or 1.5inches (not low enough for my taste) but better than stock. i was concidering leaving the rears in and either using 4 cyl foxes, moroso drags from jegs or a drag spring coil over for the front springs. and getting some stange adj struts (thought stock rear shocks would work ok?)
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2000 5spd GT vert, 1/8 ET 9.5. 60ft 2.2
315/35/17 and 275/40/17 Sumitomo HTR Z, FFRP 4.10 Gears, Steeda Lowering springs,
Hotchkis CC plates, Fenderwell CAI, SCT Xcal3, SLP Loudmouth 1, Pypes O/R X-pipe.
Yes I would work on the front first rather than the back if you had to pick one. Your car came with subframe connectors from the factory because it is a convertible. However, to my undestanding they are not that great and are also bolt-on. You should instead get the maximum motorsports XL series full length ones and have them welded on. They are much better and just aren't that expensive of a mod by nature.
im running a stock rear suspension with no subframes except for the stockers. i use a chromoly k member a arms and coil overs for the front with skinnies and 70/30 lakewood shocks. in the rear i have 50/50 lakewood shocks with eibach drag springs. bfg t/a's hook for my car. view my video in my sig to get a good look on how i hook at the track.
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"The Grogan"
as stated by
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03blkstanggt
bay side mustangs member #022
vortech at 10 psi
multiple add ons view video below
12.3 @ 109 at mir imports vs domestics.
kinda pricey in comparison to others. i had been looking at some cheaper ones in a upper and lower control arm b undle like the upr or blue oval industries ones for around $200
the other lca s that interest me are the ones that relocate the mounting point to change pinion angle and increase traction. i dont know too much about them or how well they work offstrip. lakewood make some called traction action bars also there are some called megabites and megabite jrs. but like i said i dont know much about them.
Kinda pricey, yes.... but much better? DEFINITELY!!!
The fundamental difference between most aftermarket LCA's/UCA's is these have a spherical end and are adjustable. Non-adjustable wont allow you to address the pinion angle and solid poly/poly arms (upper or lower) are fine for 1/4 mile ONLY. Running a solid poly/poly arm on the street is WORSE than stock for the corners, so I recommend arms that are superior in design and strength. I like UPR Pro-Series stuff, but have heard a few complaints from those that are running higher HP with DR's on the track. I think they will be fine for DD, but don't seem to hold up so well to really heavy abuse.
If you want to go farther up the food chain in the cornering dept, go PHB or WL and torque-arm. I have found most don't give a crap about the twisties, so many wont go that route
im running a stock rear suspension with no subframes except for the stockers. i use a chromoly k member a arms and coil overs for the front with skinnies and 70/30 lakewood shocks. in the rear i have 50/50 lakewood shocks with eibach drag springs. bfg t/a's hook for my car. view my video in my sig to get a good look on how i hook at the track.
That launch was awesome!!!! looked like it really threw the front up! did you still have your front antiroll/sway bar connected?
How carefull do u have to be when changing lanes or going around a tight curve at speed?
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2000 5spd GT vert, 1/8 ET 9.5. 60ft 2.2
315/35/17 and 275/40/17 Sumitomo HTR Z, FFRP 4.10 Gears, Steeda Lowering springs,
Hotchkis CC plates, Fenderwell CAI, SCT Xcal3, SLP Loudmouth 1, Pypes O/R X-pipe.
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