HUGE PROBLEM - 2003 GT, TECH/CPU

dvs_03gt · 06-18-2009, 09:43 PM

OK FELLAS. This one has got me now.

Car just was running amazing, ses light came on pertaining to my fuel cap as it went away, and once more came back stayed on for a few more days.

I am rolling around town, about 15min into my drive, and I am robbed of power, bogged in traffic nearly causing a rear end collision, so I pull off, shut off the ac and let her idle.. She sounded fine.. than upon leaving one of the pulleys or the adjuster leveys on the block was making a squeal upon accel. I figure its time for new belts or so? I head home immediately.

Now I am coming off the freeway exit stopping at the light to make a left exit and blam from first gear going 3000rpms the gt was literally robbed of all power and stopped dead in the intersection. I tried to restart nothing.. end result tow up the block since I was almost home.

I barely have any mods on the car, since I am building towards something special.

Intake, exhaust, susp mods, and my jlt.

and my superchip-- which i also just tried plugging in to view the dtcs and i am getting no response?

Like my car cpu is down, or gone or something..

the mileage spectrum instead of listing the 62000 it shows "-------------"

i have (which i have 60k/6yr warranty) and just drove the 2k mi on the car for fun this summer.

techs specialists, help. Don't let this be the found on road dead scenario this is ridic. LOL!

_D

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Drag5.0mustang · 06-18-2009, 11:58 PM

Its sound like to me your ecu is fried idk why, could be a wiring problem?

dvs_03gt · 06-19-2009, 12:41 AM

i will look through the wires for any faults...

my opinion on the whole thing is; it seems like fords stock semi-sophisticated alarm theft system is not disengaging or is messed up. Like how it cuts the fuel line off so the vehicle wont start.. i try to disengage with the alarm keys and the onboard killswitch hidden under the dash.. and it makes the sound to disenage but i dont think it is, or maybe i am just wrong.

how could any of this be?

gunpig0313 · 06-19-2009, 01:50 AM

Do you have traction control on the car?

reznap · 06-19-2009, 06:23 PM

I hate to lead you in the wrong direction but I thought I'd suggest something. A previous car I've owned, ford escort zx2, had an electrical problem (didn't bog though, just cut right off) which was intermittent. It turned out to be the CCRM, constant control relay module. I couldn't figure it out, the Ford dealer got it though... anyway, on the Mustang GT, the CCRM controls the EEC, A/C clutch, Fuel Pump and Coolant Fan. If you're having computer issues, it could be a cause.

Basically, there are lots of 'could-be's and if you can't figure it out, get it diagnosed by a dealer before you start throwing parts at it.

dvs_03gt · 06-22-2009, 01:48 PM

I DO HAVE TRACTION CONTROL on the gt and I usually leave it on, theres no need to race around.

Secondly, I hate to have to tow the vehicle to multiple dealers, or shops its a hassle.

This seems like such an odd electrical problem. I want to maybe take a snap at it myself, where would I start.. has anyone seen this issue?

dvs_03gt · 06-22-2009, 01:53 PM

guys also, the 03 gt gets fine power, the alarm seems to unlock the doors etc, but when it comes time to turn over the car it does not. It just makes the attemption sound..

also my tuner is getting no response from the vehicle.

dvs_03gt · 06-22-2009, 06:34 PM

After much indeed research this thread should most-definetly be a sticky on the no/start/no-crank issue.

I have came to a couple conclusions, and will trouble shoot by next monday.

Above are the details on the situation..

Anywhom.... starting IMO (less worst to worst)

1) I am told, do you have a spare key? It could just be that the key transponder went bad some how and is not deactivating the PATS system. Information boasts these keys go from 150-250$ which is ridiculous.

2) Check the fuel cut-off in the rear of the trunk...there a panel on the right hand side against the back of the car that you can stick your hand in and hit the top of the black box (relay size) and push the red button down. It may have tripped some how...it's happened to other mustangs exactly the same way. Another solution to this was to check it by; If it's not tripped, disconnect it and put a wire by the the connections and jump it... may have just gone bad. That has also happened to others and been a solution. You will have to remove the rear panel, but that's easy.

3)You also need to verify juice to the fuel pump at the rear harness...if you have juice, I would recommend hooking up a fuel gauge to the fuel rail and making sure you have pressure. Should i really check the fuel pressure too, because i know i do not own a fuel guage.

4) You can check spark by taking off one of the plug wires...putting a screwdriver up inside to make contact and then placing it near metal while someone tries to crank ur car...you should see spark jump to metal and you wont get fried doing it. (is this a safe trouble shoot solution) I would probably do this lastly if all else fails.

5) If you have fuel / spark / checked the fuel cut-off, you will have to start trouble shooting the fuel pump relay up behind the glove box and the CCRM in the fender to make sure juice is flowing. Which was referred to by other mustang owners. I recently put my new painted jlt on and adjust the right fender to the hood, so this could be a possible clause?

well any input is always greatly appreciated, ill let you all know how things go from here..

gunpig0313 · 06-22-2009, 09:06 PM

The only reason I ask is when the computer senses to much slip from the rear wheels it will shut off fuel and spark. The guy said it would do this under normal acceleration,and deceleration. We turned off the TCS, and the problem went away for about a month then came back. We replaced the computer and all was good. Now I under stand that you dont race around all the time most of don't. The guy that owned said name car was in his sixties.

gunpig0313 · 06-22-2009, 09:12 PM

I would also do what you where talking about. My next question is. Is the THEFT light flashing, or was it flashing while the car was running? If so, then it is the key or the sensor in the steering column.