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Just picked up one of these bad boys after my factory battery crapped out on me all of a sudden last night. Was gonna get an Optima but I've always wanted to try these out after reading 'bout them. They are drycell and this PC680MJT (Metal Jacket, automotive Terminals) model weighs less than 16 pounds.
I got a jump from my roommate and drove to the store and swapped it on the spot. Anyone know how I should hold it down so it can be approved at the track? Seeing that the improvised way we did it at the store so that I can drive off probably won't pass tech LMAO:
No, don't keep the zipties, that is not safe. They make battery boxes for a reason. You can always just fab up your own hold down, i did the same on a pulling tractor. Get yourself some flat bar stock, some all-thread, get creative,drill some holes, and do it up. Its easy.
Can you lay the battery on it's side and still have the leads reach? I think that would work out better and the battery would be more stable that way.
John
Whatup John!!!
Yeah, I could lay it sideways as it is a drycell so any orientation is safe. But ideally I would like to standing up like in the pic...the wires can reach it much more easily too. I'm trying to avoid drilling into my fenderwall so I've decided to drill and mount the battery onto my stock battery tray. I'm having a problem finding a battery mount though as most "universal" ones are too small to fit over the top of this battery. Odyssey as well as a few aftermarket companies make nice aluminum hold-down's for these but they are really expensive, like $100+. For now the zipties hold it down pretty darn good -- the battery aint going no where. But the problem is it would be approved at the track...ahh the track...it's a weekly addiction.
Yeah, I could lay it sideways as it is a drycell so any orientation is safe. But ideally I would like to standing up like in the pic...the wires can reach it much more easily too. I'm trying to avoid drilling into my fenderwall so I've decided to drill and mount the battery onto my stock battery tray. I'm having a problem finding a battery mount though as most "universal" ones are too small to fit over the top of this battery. Odyssey as well as a few aftermarket companies make nice aluminum hold-down's for these but they are really expensive, like $100+. For now the zipties hold it down pretty darn good -- the battery aint going no where. But the problem is it would be approved at the track...ahh the track...it's a weekly addiction.
Just go to Autozone and buy their universal J-hooks. Make sure you measure the battery height to make sure you have the right sized J-hooks. Drill 2 holes in the battery pan unless there are already 2 that you can use. Autozone has a rubber strap that should fit over the top of the battery and you can attach the J-hooks to it. That should be legal for the Dale. It ain't pretty but it works!
John
P.S. And it's cheap!!!
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2003 Mustang GT, Maximum Motorsports Max Grip Box, Wilwood SL6 front/DL4 rear Big Brake Kit, Corbeau Racing Seats, MGW Short Shifter, MAC Long Tube Headers/Prochamber mid pipes/Flowmaster 40, FRPP 4.10 gears/Eaton Posi, TrickFlow Cover, Moser 31 spline Axles, Trickflow 75mm TB/Plenum, UDP
I used a premade/drilled piece of galvanized steel flat stock from TSC, and two of the long carriage bolts to do it, cost less than 10$ for everything. And it looked good, of course this was on my pulling tractor lol.
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2000 GT 5 Spd
BBK Fenderwell, Trickflow 75mm Plenum, Summit 75mm TB, Steeda Triax, King Cobra Clutch, FRPP Flywheel, Steeda Cable Adjuster/Quadrant, SLP catted X-pipe, SLP LM1 exhaust, Sniper SF Tuning, Weld in Full Length SFCs, FRPP 4.10 Gears, Carbon Clutch Discs.
Wish list....
KB blower
Rear suspension-UCAs & LCAs in a box-need a free weekend to install
Tubular front suspension
Long tubes
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