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I have been here a few times and have always been helped. I have an Automatic 02 GT and it has just started hesitating really bad. I do not have any check engine lights on. The car idles fine but as soon a I step on the gas to go I get a slight hesitation and the car feels like it is cutting in and out all the way up to 50 MPH. This also happens when I am just cruising and I step on the gas to pass someone. Does this sound like an IAC issue? If anyone has any insight I would greatly appreciate it.
Thank you,
Steve
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mine did that when i had cop #2 and #3 misfireing underload, but it wasnt enough to throw the light
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A.S.E. Master Tech, Ford Factory Trained Tech, and SVT Trained Tech
D.S.S. 5.1 stroker built by ProLine Race Engines, 200 shot, TCI 4r70w trans, 3200 stall, trick flo heads, stage 2 cms cams, Long tubes, o/r h-pipe, flows, eibach pro-kit, 4.10 gear, 03 cobra deep dish in black, tuned by Tim Barth at Modular Power House
It could be a few things. An easy test, and I WILL get flamed for this I'm sure, is to run a fuel treat treatment through the tank and see if it clears things up. The ONLY reason I recommend this is because last year, I was on my way home from Summit, and I nailed it gettign on the highway, and I think I stirred up some junk and clogged an injector. It was hesitating under load like you said. I stopped at a gas station, got some injector cleaner, dumped it in, and in about another 10 miles of driving it improved and eventually went away. Whether it was a fluke or not, I don't know, but it cost's 5 bux, so it can't hurt to try right?
It could also be the fuel filter, or your ignition system. So check plugs/COPs and change your fuel filter, as I'm sure it could use a change anyway. There is more info about COPs in my sig below.
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2000 GT 5 Spd
BBK Fenderwell, Trickflow 75mm Plenum, Summit 75mm TB, Steeda Triax, King Cobra Clutch, FRPP Flywheel, Steeda Cable Adjuster/Quadrant, SLP catted X-pipe, SLP LM1 exhaust, Sniper SF Tuning, Weld in Full Length SFCs, FRPP 4.10 Gears, Carbon Clutch Discs.
Wish list....
KB blower
Rear suspension-UCAs & LCAs in a box-need a free weekend to install
Tubular front suspension
Long tubes
Thank you both for replying. I will run the fuel cleaner first and go through your COP sticky. Hopefully there is an easy way to test them. Any more suggestions are welcome.
A new twist to add. It seems to only happen when the car gets to normal operating temperature. It doesn't do it when I first start it up in the morning. What do you guys think?
A new twist to add. It seems to only happen when the car gets to normal operating temperature. It doesn't do it when I first start it up in the morning. What do you guys think?
This helps big time. I'd put money on bad COP. As it heats up the resistance of the coil increases, which makes any weakness in the coil that much more noticeable. I'd check the COPs first.
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2000 GT 5 Spd
BBK Fenderwell, Trickflow 75mm Plenum, Summit 75mm TB, Steeda Triax, King Cobra Clutch, FRPP Flywheel, Steeda Cable Adjuster/Quadrant, SLP catted X-pipe, SLP LM1 exhaust, Sniper SF Tuning, Weld in Full Length SFCs, FRPP 4.10 Gears, Carbon Clutch Discs.
Wish list....
KB blower
Rear suspension-UCAs & LCAs in a box-need a free weekend to install
Tubular front suspension
Long tubes
HAD THE SAME KIND OF PROBLEM ON MY CAR. IT DROVE ME CRAZY. I CHANGED THE FUEL FILTER, PLUGS WERE NEW, COILS AND WIRES WERE ALL GOOD. I HAD TRIED EVERYTHING. FINALLY, I WAS TOLD TO CHECK THE MASS AIR. I GOT A CAN OF MAF SENSOR CLEANER FOR LIKE 6 BUCKS, CLEANED IT, AND THE CAR RAN LIKE NEW. YOU MAY WANT TO TRY THAT IT IS QUICK AND CHEAP.
+1 on cleaning mass air couldn't hurt, and it fixed my cutting out and idle problems. Also I had a ford truck that had the same problems I would get about 2-3 miles from the house and it would shut off, it had a bad fuel pump and every time it got hot it would shut off.
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2000 GT
K&N CAI
Flowmasters
SLP Lontubes
O/R X pipe
MGW Shifter
Predator tuner
BBK Springs
C&L Upper Plenum
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