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A head unit (either vortech or procharger)
the mounting kit (with all needed accessories to connect the head unit to the car)
an inter cooler
42lb injectors
SVT focus fuel pump
Mass Air (can somebody please explain this to me)
(not needed but will also get) Pillar gauges for boost and temp
What is the mass air? and where does it go into the "scheme" of the whole unit?
also.. I know that I dont have "Super charge" specific cams, but they will still work with the super charger right? There is no need to have to replace the current cams with others correct?
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as far as replacements...injectors, fuel pump, mass air flow sensor, and a tune. That willl get it on the road. don't forget to do your plugs and even wires before the dyno if you havent in awhile, all of this won't do you any good if you can't keep the power going straight lol, suspension tires ect. your cams should be fine stock, wouldn't hurt if you have an extra $1000 to upgrade, same with headers
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1996 SVT Cobra
*FRPP4.10's
*cold air intake
*superchips tuner
*FRPPaluminum driveshaft
*straight pipes no cats flowmasters
*Black cobra floor mats
*chrome fuel door
*Accufab1600cfm throttle body
*Chrome appearance hood pins
*Steeda Tri- axShort throw shifter
as far as replacements...injectors, fuel pump, mass air flow sensor, and a tune. That willl get it on the road. don't forget to do your plugs and even wires before the dyno if you havent in awhile, all of this won't do you any good if you can't keep the power going straight lol, suspension tires ect. your cams should be fine stock, wouldn't hurt if you have an extra $1000 to upgrade, same with headers
99+ stangs dont have plug wires.
anyways, vortecs dont stay cooler than procharger with circulating oil, engine oil is actually hotter than the oil in the procharger since it is only lubricating small gears inside the head unit. also, vortec now also offers a s/c kit with out the need to tap a hole in the oil pan so that throws out the claims that then engine oil will cool the s/c better. another reason prochargers cost more is that they (claim) that they use all billet internal parts vs some cast components such as their competitors.
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35 anv GT (4.6 2v P1-SC 483hp/454ft-lbs @8psi)
06' daytona 675 (110rwhp)
89' jeep cherokee =) hp
03 cobra vert (429hp/421ft-lbs w/ 2.8 pulley)
06 suzuki ltr 450 (47whp)
A head unit (either vortech or procharger)
the mounting kit (with all needed accessories to connect the head unit to the car)
an inter cooler
42lb injectors
SVT focus fuel pump
Mass Air (can somebody please explain this to me)
(not needed but will also get) Pillar gauges for boost and temp
What is the mass air? and where does it go into the "scheme" of the whole unit?
also.. I know that I don't have "Super charge" specific cams, but they will still work with the super charger right? There is no need to have to replace the current cams with others correct?
you will also need a bypass valve to vent all the excess air flow out of your charge pipes. i went with the vortech mini race bypass valve.
as far as a fuel pump goes, a lot of people say to go with a SVT Focus pump. that's what i did and i maxed it out at 5500rpms(redline is 6100). for blown applications i will never recommend that pump, go for the Ford GT Supercar pump.
A mass air meter measures the volume of air going into the motor and tells the computer how much fuel to send to the injectors. its the thing with the green writing in between the 2 blue couplers in this pic:
anyways, vortecs dont stay cooler than procharger with circulating oil, engine oil is actually hotter than the oil in the procharger since it is only lubricating small gears inside the head unit. also, vortec now also offers a s/c kit with out the need to tap a hole in the oil pan so that throws out the claims that then engine oil will cool the s/c better. another reason prochargers cost more is that they (claim) that they use all billet internal parts vs some cast components such as their competitors.
ok... no. Oil in the vortech is cooler. They decided to make an SC unit because procharger as done a good job of pushing their sc bs... non-sc is still available for those who know better. And FYI, procharger pro-race versions are mostly non-sc at mid level and completely so at competition level (last time I checked anyway)... just for that reason
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TRADE MY Mach 1 HOOD + scoop set up for easy GT install (attached, no intake system necessary, unless you want it) for a COWL hood and maybe STOCK + CASH (but probably not). The hood is painted silver, in great shape, does need a color sand, but thats no biggie. Would prefer a swap for a silver one, but will consider many options. Need to trade due to changed plan on this car. RTP/Greensboro/Charlotte
you will also need a bypass valve to vent all the excess air flow out of your charge pipes. i went with the vortech mini race bypass valve.
as far as a fuel pump goes, a lot of people say to go with a SVT Focus pump. that's what i did and i maxed it out at 5500rpms(redline is 6100). for blown applications i will never recommend that pump, go for the Ford GT Supercar pump.
A mass air meter measures the volume of air going into the motor and tells the computer how much fuel to send to the injectors. its the thing with the green writing in between the 2 blue couplers in this pic:
are you running a blow through maf or a draw through?
ok... no. Oil in the vortech is cooler. They decided to make an SC unit because procharger as done a good job of pushing their sc bs... non-sc is still available for those who know better. And FYI, procharger pro-race versions are mostly non-sc at mid level and completely so at competition level (last time I checked anyway)... just for that reason
...no, if prochargers claim was bs then they would just prove them wrong but they cant. my p1sc doesnt get much hotter than ambient temp. even after driving around in over 100f weather and under the hood of a black car with the a/c blasting i can still touch the head unit with my hand it, cant say the same about the oil pan, even after u turn the car off and its been sitting for awhile. ever changed oil on a car that has been driving around, HOT enough to burn u on contact and boil water, but not the procharger head unit. also, not that i believe everything that mags print but check this out too. http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...ort_mafia.html
also drag race cars dont have to deal with stop and go traffic with a/c blasting and are allowed to cool off after each run and are sometimes iced as well. so they dont deal with some of those extremes. but since the air doesnt stay in the s/c for much time, a few degrees will not affect the air temp much.
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35 anv GT (4.6 2v P1-SC 483hp/454ft-lbs @8psi)
06' daytona 675 (110rwhp)
89' jeep cherokee =) hp
03 cobra vert (429hp/421ft-lbs w/ 2.8 pulley)
06 suzuki ltr 450 (47whp)
Another thing to consider when deciding procharger vs. vortech is that prochargers brackets suck. Ox always used to say prochargers brackets were poorly made and can warp under load. I haven't seen it myself but he mentioned it numerous times and ran a vortech setup on his own car instead.
I don't really have any reason to be bad mouthing procharger (and I'm certainly not trying to) but I'll be going with a vortech when it's my time.
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1999 GT - SOLD
2004 Mach 1 - Azure Blue
BBK Long Tubes - MAC O/R Prochamber - Borla Stingers
4.10s - Sniper Tuned
Last edited by PaintballFreak; 09-09-2009 at 12:46 AM.
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