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Old 09-10-2009, 05:37 PM   #11
disposablehero27
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i'm in the same boat man, i've cleaned everything, checking everything but the hood pins to see what the deal is. heading home hopefully in time enough to get this started and do the TB and clean the Aircleaner and MAF by the beginning of next week. I have the exact same symptoms expect the bogging, it has a rough idle though. seems like i have a cam in it... or several cams haha,i wish, but i don't. i'm worried its something a bit more serious.
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1996 SVT Cobra
*FRPP4.10's
*cold air intake
*superchips tuner
*FRPPaluminum driveshaft
*straight pipes no cats flowmasters
*Black cobra floor mats
*chrome fuel door
*Accufab1600cfm throttle body
*Chrome appearance hood pins
*Steeda Tri- axShort throw shifter
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Old 09-10-2009, 05:43 PM   #12
cliffyk
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Is is an OEM replacement MAF, or something else?

[quote=SVTeeshirt;6486035]
Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post
Bogging is generally an overly rich mix, severely retarded spark, or a loss of charge velocity from a grossly oversize throttle body...

just a muffler, i even swapped my x-pipe back to stock, stock TB i did buy a new MAF cleaned the IAC. I did find some wire that was poorly taped to say the least and was corroaded so i stripped down to good wire put em back together and retaped, it was arc-ing so bad im suprized it didn't catch fire, i found a crack in the hose that runs from the intake tube back across the middle to the intake manifold (4v) and replaced the hose, cleaned the IAC. Replaced the sparkplugs and wires/ Coolant temp sensor(autozone told me it was throwing CTS mod). Then still bogging, better but still bogging, as well as shutting down whenever i would put my foot on the clutch from a high rate of speed, if i downshifted to slow the car would shut off and come back to life once i let off the clutch, if i didn't let off the clutch it would simply shut off.

Im hoping its not a horrible wiring issue, im thinking i should have replaced the IAC but after i did pretty much everything listed above i took it for a diagnostic test and they told me i needed new plugs and wires.... when the plugs and wires in there were 2 weeks new, with the correct gap, oh and the wires seemed to be burned near the plug. what would cause this?

with that said it was enough to make me pull the car off the road and just do a complete rebuild, but i'm still wondering what the hell was causing this... should i have replaced the IAC? i was just so fed up with spending $ on it.
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Old 09-10-2009, 05:50 PM   #13
disposablehero27
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if your asking me, OEM MAF yes
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*FRPP4.10's
*cold air intake
*superchips tuner
*FRPPaluminum driveshaft
*straight pipes no cats flowmasters
*Black cobra floor mats
*chrome fuel door
*Accufab1600cfm throttle body
*Chrome appearance hood pins
*Steeda Tri- axShort throw shifter
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disposablehero27 View Post
i'm in the same boat man, i've cleaned everything, checking everything but the hood pins to see what the deal is. heading home hopefully in time enough to get this started and do the TB and clean the Aircleaner and MAF by the beginning of next week. I have the exact same symptoms expect the bogging, it has a rough idle though. seems like i have a cam in it... or several cams haha,i wish, but i don't. i'm worried its something a bit more serious.
Check for a vacuum leak somewhere by the TB or the EGR valve. My car had a rough idle and I popped the hood to see what was up and the vacuum hose came of the big port on the plenum.
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:17 PM   #15
disposablehero27
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will do, i'm going to have to fine comb this SOB, cause im worried she's on her last leg. its tough... do i save for a rebuild kit, or do i put a petty $50/$100 in a part here and a part there and something here or there to try to keep it kicking just a bit longer.
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1996 SVT Cobra
*FRPP4.10's
*cold air intake
*superchips tuner
*FRPPaluminum driveshaft
*straight pipes no cats flowmasters
*Black cobra floor mats
*chrome fuel door
*Accufab1600cfm throttle body
*Chrome appearance hood pins
*Steeda Tri- axShort throw shifter
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Old 09-10-2009, 07:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disposablehero27 View Post
will do, i'm going to have to fine comb this SOB, cause im worried she's on her last leg. its tough... do i save for a rebuild kit, or do i put a petty $50/$100 in a part here and a part there and something here or there to try to keep it kicking just a bit longer.
Is it burning oil, have low compression, bearing noise, or some other major mechanical issue that makes you feel it's "on her last leg"?
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PP 70mm TB & plenum, Sniper tuned
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Old 09-10-2009, 08:43 PM   #17
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Dude I had a 96 Cobra. I had some issues with mine to but mine was only 4 years old when I bought it. Yours is almost 15 now its going to have problems. Those cars have been beat up like a hooker on dollar night.
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Old 09-11-2009, 10:13 AM   #18
disposablehero27
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uh..yeah.. its gunna have problems, and now i want to fix them. i have an entire rebuild in the garage, but i am trickling it in slowly but surely cause of money. NOW this morning, the car barely started... new symptom, i hate the key, it chugged around, and then rose rpms REAL slow to idle after a short rough start. interesting...never done that before either.
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1996 SVT Cobra
*FRPP4.10's
*cold air intake
*superchips tuner
*FRPPaluminum driveshaft
*straight pipes no cats flowmasters
*Black cobra floor mats
*chrome fuel door
*Accufab1600cfm throttle body
*Chrome appearance hood pins
*Steeda Tri- axShort throw shifter
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Old 09-11-2009, 10:13 AM   #19
disposablehero27
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HIT** the key. typo
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1996 SVT Cobra
*FRPP4.10's
*cold air intake
*superchips tuner
*FRPPaluminum driveshaft
*straight pipes no cats flowmasters
*Black cobra floor mats
*chrome fuel door
*Accufab1600cfm throttle body
*Chrome appearance hood pins
*Steeda Tri- axShort throw shifter
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Old 09-11-2009, 12:24 PM   #20
SVTeeshirt
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cliffy it was an OEM maf, nothing sounded like it was gonna die, it never burned oil, i never had to add a quart between changes as long as i remember.
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