NEW idle air controller... still shuts down when i'm stopping - Page 3

CopNaStang · 09-13-2009, 08:08 PM

Make sure all connections on your intake are nice and tight, and check for any other vacuum leaks. That will stall it out while driving in a heartbeat

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cliffyk · 09-13-2009, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVTeeshirt

cliffy it was an OEM maf, nothing sounded like it was gonna die, it never burned oil, i never had to add a quart between changes as long as i remember.

Then what makes you feel it's on its last legs?

SVTeeshirt · 09-13-2009, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cliffyk

Then what makes you feel it's on its last legs?

sorry 2 seprate people in here with same cobras think we got a little confused lol we have the same problems except his is burning oil ( i think) mine isn't, just tired of spending $ on sensors and stuff and it isn't fast enough lol.

disposablehero27 · 09-15-2009, 03:23 PM

yeah mine does burn oil... and cliffy that throttle body fixed er right up. thanks man, have a new IAC out of the deal.. oh well. she's running pretty true it seems. I'm still getting some kind of popping and backfiring when the motor has drag on it, like going down hill in a low gear, it pops and crackles. Others say it shouldn't be a problem, something like unburned fuel or something. should i worry?

EODMustang · 09-16-2009, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cliffyk

I would suspect the TB is not bleeding enough air at closed throttle (I.e. it's closing too tightly) and the IAC cannot compensate for the "chopped off" air flow quickly enough--try tweaking the throttle plate stop screw, making it more open in 1/8th turn increments.

You need disconnect the battery for 5-7 minutes between adjustments to reset the KAM, and let the engine idle for at least 15 minutes after restarting...

Will disconnecting the battery for that long reset the ECU to stock parameters? I was just wondering if I would have to re-flash the ECU with my Diablo after I did that.

devongarver · 09-16-2009, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by disposablehero27

yeah mine does burn oil... and cliffy that throttle body fixed er right up. thanks man, have a new IAC out of the deal.. oh well. she's running pretty true it seems. I'm still getting some kind of popping and backfiring when the motor has drag on it, like going down hill in a low gear, it pops and crackles. Others say it shouldn't be a problem, something like unburned fuel or something. should i worry?

^^That's normal, its called backfiring. Just unburnt fuel reigniting as it exits through a hot and very open exhaust.

Quote:

Originally Posted by EODMustang

Will disconnecting the battery for that long reset the ECU to stock parameters? I was just wondering if I would have to re-flash the ECU with my Diablo after I did that.

No, when you "flash" a tune into the ECU, you are flashing a EE-PROM chip. It only can be changed by adding electrical charge, in a controlled fashion of course, or UV light over the window which obviously isn't going to happen. It will not change due to battery failure. The information that is lost is a seperate circuit of parameters. So, no worries.

EODMustang · 09-20-2009, 12:13 AM

Thanks Devon

Evenexchange · 09-20-2009, 12:53 AM

What happens if you turn that nut on the TB too much and cause the flap to open up too much?

cliffyk · 09-20-2009, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Evenexchange

What happens if you turn that nut on the TB too much and cause the flap to open up too much?

Depending on how much too open the "flap" (aka throttle plate) is open, returning to idle will be sluggish, or not happen at all because even with the IAC "off" there will be too much air flow...

devongarver · 09-21-2009, 08:54 AM

Just a side note: I adjusted mine over the weekend, and reset the KAM, and WOW what a difference it made....for about a few hours of driving...

It was fantastic, didn't dip in the RPMs at all when coming to a stop, and it definitely fixed the "catch" in the pedal at tip in. But as the ECU beagn relearning, it slowly started resorting back to how it was. It mechanicly works well still, the catch is still gone so the pedal application is smooth as butter. BUT, it almost stalled on me again when I was stopped in the driveway. It just dips low in the rpms, sometimes down to 350-400. And this was not happening for the first few hours of driving. I am wondering what the computer is learning that would cause this. I am thinking before next season(since its being garaged in a month), that I will replace the battery and alternator, as well as the wiring too and from. They are all original, and I am getting a leak somewhere because I am getting corrosion very quickly on the negative terminal even with dielectric on it. Any thoughts?