You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Been having a nasty electrical problem starting 2 days ago when my battery died cause I left my lights on, boosted it, it was fine.
After boosting it I drove home 220 miles, along the way it would lose ALL power and go completely dark, ignition, lights, stereo, for about half a second.
Yesterday it got a lot worse, at first it died for about 2 seconds then came back, but then it died at a red light and would not come back.
This is key: my volt meter inside the car would read 5-8V, and the motor would crank at 100% power, just not start. Once we pushed the car off to the side of the road, there was enough jostling/vibration to hit something back into place, and it started right up, died a second time trying to get it home though.
Things I checked today;
batt- to block ground
batt- to chasis ground
batt+ to fuse box
fuse box to alt
Harness to computer
All of these things were super tight and just like they've always been...
Ideas? Thanks.
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
__________________
1999 Mustang GT, Atlantic Blue, Magnapacks, 4.10s, AR Torq Thrust Ms, King Cobra clutch.
310 NA RWHP - DSS SuperMOD
Your voltmeter would read 5-8v? when? Thats not nearly enough for anything. A good battery with ignition off should be between 12.4 and 12.6 volts. Running, you should have high 13, low to mid 14 volts. If you have one, check with an actual multimeter to see what voltage you are reading with ignition off, and with the vehicle running. Dont trust the factory gauges. They are more of dummy gauges.
__________________
Just a slow, 8 year old 100,000 mile mustang.
Your voltmeter would read 5-8v? when? Thats not nearly enough for anything. A good battery with ignition off should be between 12.4 and 12.6 volts. Running, you should have high 13, low to mid 14 volts. If you have one, check with an actual multimeter to see what voltage you are reading with ignition off, and with the vehicle running. Dont trust the factory gauges. They are more of dummy gauges.
Not factory. I have a digital voltmeter inside the car.
That voltage is what would read when the "problem" was loose. When it would jiggle back into place, I would get my full 12ishV with the car off.
__________________
1999 Mustang GT, Atlantic Blue, Magnapacks, 4.10s, AR Torq Thrust Ms, King Cobra clutch.
310 NA RWHP - DSS SuperMOD
Where do you have your gauge hooked up to? I'll assume at the battery. If its not too much of a pain the ass, hook your hot side directly to your alternator, and your ground to a dedicated known good ground. Shouldn't be too hard. If you're getting good voltage at that point, you can eliminate the basic charging system.
The best route here: process of elimination.
__________________
Just a slow, 8 year old 100,000 mile mustang.
Thats where hooking your gauge up to the output of the alternator and a solid ground comes in. If/when your issue surfaces, you can instantly check your gauge's voltage display and see if its your alternator. Honestly youre at an advantage having that gauge because it gives you the ability to check your voltage at any point in the system and wait for the problem to arise. Im just recommending starting at the source.
Following me here?
__________________
Just a slow, 8 year old 100,000 mile mustang.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company
Nasty Electrical Problem
