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Hold the throttle at wide open, and the ECU will disable spark and fuel and will just crank. Ford added this intentionally. No, I'm not kidding.
A note of warning, it only does it for the FIRST crank after the key has been turned on. If you decide that wasn't enough priming and try the starter again while still holding WOT it -WILL- start. Just turn the key to off, then back to on, hold wide open again, and crank.
Better method even than pulling the fuel pump relay.
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2004 Black Premium GT (5spd)
-Procharger P-1SC intercooled
-Moates.net Quarterhorse
-Tuned with Binary Editor
i believe the best way is to attatch a line to the block and use a hand pump. But from what I hear these cars dont need a whole lot of priming for the initial start up. You can just pull the injectors and ignition wires. Thats how I did mine and somehow magically the engine started turning over slowly on its own. Was basically turning with no fuel or spark. Dont know how it happened
i was told to unplug the crank sensor and crank the engine. to do it for a few times, plug the sensor back, and turn it on. have you all heard about this method before.
i was told to unplug the crank sensor and crank the engine. to do it for a few times, plug the sensor back, and turn it on. have you all heard about this method before.
yes but even with that method it still takes a second before the pressure builds up. If you used proper assembly lube it should be fine, but its always nice to know it has oil pressure during the first strokes of turning over the motor. The less bearing material you lose during startup the better and more bearing material means longer lasting and more durable it will be
If you've assembled the motor correctly with lube and filled the oil pump with lube like the book says then there is plenty of assembly lube on everything for the initial start up before the pump makes pressure.
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98Gt with pro 5.0shifter, 3.73's Pi swap and stage 2 CompCams, BBK Lt's, catless H pipe, Flows. Procharged 8psi
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