HOW TO: CHANGING SPARK PLUGS 99-04 - Page 4 - MustangForums.com



4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

     
Old 10-08-2015, 02:26 PM
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:00 AM   #31
cliffyk
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That worked. Thanks.
Cool...
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Old 11-18-2012, 01:57 AM   #32
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Cliffyk. I just replaced my plugs with Motorcrafts and all went well. Some of the plugs were looser then others. I used this http://www.norwalktools.com/ecommerc...plug-socket.py to torque my plugs as I don't have a 3/8's torque wrench (i thought my 1/2 drive TQ wrench was overkill). Am I correct to assume that this is sufficient for meeting the torque specs for the 4.6L? I read your review of this tool and this is what pointed me in this direction. I hope I did it correctly and don't have any issues.
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:03 AM   #33
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Careful when it comes to Anti-Seize. Some think you can use it like toothpaste. Just a LITTLE dab on the threads with the brush, spreading evenly. And NON on the seat of the plug, which could affect the torque setting.
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:51 AM   #34
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Cliffyk. I just replaced my plugs with Motorcrafts and all went well. Some of the plugs were looser then others. I used this http://www.norwalktools.com/ecommerc...plug-socket.py to torque my plugs as I don't have a 3/8's torque wrench (i thought my 1/2 drive TQ wrench was overkill). Am I correct to assume that this is sufficient for meeting the torque specs for the 4.6L? I read your review of this tool and this is what pointed me in this direction. I hope I did it correctly and don't have any issues.
That is exactly the correct tool. It is rated for 20 Nm (Newton meters), 14.75 lb-in, however I have found that in practice these break-over at closer to 14.0 lb-in. which is just right; a bit higher than the factory spec to provide a bit of an edge, especially if you use never-seize which does lubricate the threads and mean the plug should be torqued a bit tighter anyway--yet it is no where near high enough to damage the plug bore threads...

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Old 11-18-2012, 10:32 AM   #35
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Just so I am sure there is a very noticeable visual and auditory click where you reach the specified torque correct? The first time it did it I thought I snapped a plug or stripped the threads. Glad to know there is a break in period which i though because I could feel it happening but just wasn't sure.

Last edited by 02GTowner; 11-18-2012 at 10:34 AM.
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Old 11-18-2012, 10:49 AM   #36
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Just so I am sure there is a very noticeable visual and auditory click where you reach the specified torque correct? The first time it did it I thought I snapped a plug or stripped the threads. Glad to know there is a break in period which i though because I could feel it happening but just wasn't sure.
It just "snaps-over" and returns to the next "free" position. The way it works is that the rotating input at the top has four ramps. The body of the socket has a spring-loaded ball that presses against one of the ramps at any point in time.

The spring tension is calibrated so that as you turn the input of the socket the ball "climbs" up the active ramp, compressing the spring; when the calibrated torque has been attained the ball falls off the peak of the ramp into the valley of the next. The socket makes a snap and releases when the ball falls off the ramp.

Because there are four ramps the socket has four active positions.

In theory you could just keep turning the socket as many times as you like and the plug would get no tighter as the torque is limited by the spring/ball/ramp action (I did test this using a digital torque adapter and found it to be true), however in practice there is no need to do this, one ramp-up and release is all that is needed.

So, as long as you turn the socket past at least one "snap" it is impossible to under- or over- torque the plug.

Pretty neat!

Last edited by cliffyk; 11-18-2012 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:43 PM   #37
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I appreciate the write up and the assistance. If I could get rep points I would. Thank you sir.
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