inspite of all the lowering questions...
#1
inspite of all the lowering questions...
Ive read through all the posts i could find on lowering, and i still dont quite understand what i need to lower my car.. So i figure ill try and be direct as possible.
I have a 2001 mustang GT, it has cobra-r's on it and i would like to lower anywhere between 2-3 inches, and still maintain a daily driver, i can handle some stiffness in the ride though.
My question is what do i need? i hear alot of terms with no real definition. So if maybe somone could define some of these words, or at least tell me when i would need them that would be a great help. Or even point me in the general direction (not google, i tried and failed) in order to get all the info im lookin for.
C&C plates, caster and chamber plates? when do i need them and what purpose do they serve?
Bushings
shocks
springs
contral arms
and any thing else i might need to complete my lowering.
Yes i lack alot of knowledge about cars, but im trying..
I have a 2001 mustang GT, it has cobra-r's on it and i would like to lower anywhere between 2-3 inches, and still maintain a daily driver, i can handle some stiffness in the ride though.
My question is what do i need? i hear alot of terms with no real definition. So if maybe somone could define some of these words, or at least tell me when i would need them that would be a great help. Or even point me in the general direction (not google, i tried and failed) in order to get all the info im lookin for.
C&C plates, caster and chamber plates? when do i need them and what purpose do they serve?
Bushings
shocks
springs
contral arms
and any thing else i might need to complete my lowering.
Yes i lack alot of knowledge about cars, but im trying..
#2
RE: inspite of all the lowering questions...
just my opion i would get the eibac sportline springs will drop about 2 in all the way around and you will need caster/camber plates....you dont need anything else except an allignment the other options such as shocks, controll arms and bushing will make it better but not neccassary to lowwer.. must is springs and caster camber plates..... hope this helped
#3
RE: inspite of all the lowering questions...
I have sportlines, and C&C plates, and I love the setup!
you will need to upgrade your ball joints and struts eventually, but it's not required off the bat
The springs drop the car and make it stiffer, and the C&C plates keep the front wheels from being cocked at an angle
you will need to upgrade your ball joints and struts eventually, but it's not required off the bat
The springs drop the car and make it stiffer, and the C&C plates keep the front wheels from being cocked at an angle
#4
RE: inspite of all the lowering questions...
so with a 2 inch drop youll have to get ball joints eventually? what about the pro kit?? i think its like 1 1/2 front 1 rear, will u need ball joints and new shocks eventually??
#7
RE: inspite of all the lowering questions...
when you slam the car, it strains all the front end parts because they are at a more extreme than stock angle. The ball joints are under more strain and so is everything else.
bump steer is when you hit the brake in a lowered car and the car tries to turn... the kit eliminates that, which I need eventually
bump steer is when you hit the brake in a lowered car and the car tries to turn... the kit eliminates that, which I need eventually
#8
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: In between Your Mom's Titties, skeet skeet..
Posts: 2,045
RE: inspite of all the lowering questions...
Now a common misconception about replacing struts not being necessary is not quite on the money...
Since Ford designed the entire suspension around each component, and not just something like springs, they're not dampened correctly, for a shorter dampen/rebound. This means that when you lower your car, the stock shocks won't compress and expand enough to keep your car stable. This usually means that the valving is not up to standard, and will more than likely blow out.. Not just that, things like Eibach, Steeda, or Roush are all of a HIGHER spring rate, meaning they are much stiffer, and since they don't give much, your shocks/struts take the beating.....
Best thing to do, is to upgrade to some decent shocks/struts. They don't have to be $500 a pair, but use something w/ performance in mind.. Sure, you don't have to do it right away, but depending on the roads in your area, they could last a week, or a month...
JT
Since Ford designed the entire suspension around each component, and not just something like springs, they're not dampened correctly, for a shorter dampen/rebound. This means that when you lower your car, the stock shocks won't compress and expand enough to keep your car stable. This usually means that the valving is not up to standard, and will more than likely blow out.. Not just that, things like Eibach, Steeda, or Roush are all of a HIGHER spring rate, meaning they are much stiffer, and since they don't give much, your shocks/struts take the beating.....
Best thing to do, is to upgrade to some decent shocks/struts. They don't have to be $500 a pair, but use something w/ performance in mind.. Sure, you don't have to do it right away, but depending on the roads in your area, they could last a week, or a month...
JT
#9
RE: inspite of all the lowering questions...
Bumpsteer is a change in toe angle caused by the suspension moving up or down. Bump-steer is built into the geometry of the suspension and steering system, and has nothing to do with turning the steering wheel. The effect of bumpsteer is for the wheel to toe-in or toe-out when the suspension moves up or down. This toe change or “steering†occurs any time the suspension moves, whether it is from body roll, brake-dive, or hitting a bump in the road. Bump steer is undesirable because the suspension is steering the car instead of the driver. (quote from 50resto.com)
Basicaly the bump steer kit replaces your tie rod ends. It makes your tie rods more hoizontal again
Basicaly the bump steer kit replaces your tie rod ends. It makes your tie rods more hoizontal again
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