4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

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Old 07-31-2007, 11:29 AM
  #11  
nanaki
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ORIGINAL: adam_ferguson

lol if your talking about 550 hp i'd be more worried about the transmission....
my stock transmission is holding up just fine with 547RWHP.
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Old 07-31-2007, 12:06 PM
  #12  
Matts00GT
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I wouldnt worry about the crank. I'd worry about your transmission and rear end first.
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Old 08-01-2007, 02:53 PM
  #13  
ajmodelski
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My goal is around 650 rwhp. I plan to do a turbo kit at around 15 psi. so I do want the crank. From what I have seen with all the other stuff you need to buy you are only saving a couple hundred bucks in the end. And considering the differance of possible power, I don't see why you wouldn't go for more. The differance of running <500hp and 500+ is a forged bottom end. So if you are going to forge part, why not go all the way. If your going to over 500hp, you should be running a trubo kit, do to efficiency and a list of other reasons. And the differance between 500 and 800 hp is injectors and a tune. So why wouldn't you just go all the way. Thats what I figure.
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Old 08-01-2007, 03:14 PM
  #14  
lizzyfan
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ORIGINAL: Matts00GT

I wouldnt worry about the crank. I'd worry about your transmission and rear end first.
+1, but you might as well do the crank!
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Old 08-01-2007, 03:26 PM
  #15  
sstang
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You plan on going turbo but still keep the cost down...? Not gonna happen. Building your own or buying a kit? You will be happier in the end if you forge the crank, plus you can rev higher.

What I would do is go forced induction first. Go ahead and safely max out the stock internals. Then save for a forged bottom. At least this way you will still be pretty fast.
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Old 08-01-2007, 03:59 PM
  #16  
Matts00GT
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ORIGINAL: ajmodelski

My goal is around 650 rwhp. I plan to do a turbo kit at around 15 psi. so I do want the crank. From what I have seen with all the other stuff you need to buy you are only saving a couple hundred bucks in the end. And considering the differance of possible power, I don't see why you wouldn't go for more. The differance of running <500hp and 500+ is a forged bottom end. So if you are going to forge part, why not go all the way. If your going to over 500hp, you should be running a trubo kit, do to efficiency and a list of other reasons. And the differance between 500 and 800 hp is injectors and a tune. So why wouldn't you just go all the way. Thats what I figure.

No offence dude, but I hear this "Im going for 650rwhp" all the time and most of the people havent even driven 400rwhp cars...If you are actually going to follow through with your goal then yeah, purchase a new crank for it. Dont get offended, but Ill believe it when I see it.
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Old 08-01-2007, 05:22 PM
  #17  
nathansee3
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IMO I would just buy a ful forged shortblock for 3G and call it a day. Get the forged everything and good till whatever limit u want to take it.
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Old 08-02-2007, 09:01 PM
  #18  
ajmodelski
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I have not driven a 400whp car before. But I have driven a 350 whp subaru and I am on a hydroplane racing crew. I know how my mind works, and I know that when I have 400hp. I'm going to want 500 and when I have 500, I'm going to want 600. 650 is the peak I will allow my self. As for keeping the cast down by buying the kit now and forging the bottom later. Not worth it. I don't want to put all that **** on more than once. And a full forged assembly with berrings and everything is $1800. An easy cast compared to the $5000 for a trubo kit. I hope that when I install my mods up to the point when I want the Turbo kit, I'm happy with thepower output. But I know I wont be.
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Old 08-02-2007, 09:16 PM
  #19  
Twogunsblazin
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ALL MOTOR FTW!!!! +1 on the believe it when i see it thing.
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Old 08-03-2007, 06:29 AM
  #20  
nanaki
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i wouldn't even worry about 550HP if you don't plan on upgrading your fuel. you won't even get out of the 400s.
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