Rotors
12-09-2007, 01:05 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: fl
Posts: 150
Rotors
ive searched the forums about the rotors on the GT, but really didnt find an answer to my question everyone else was trying to do a swap for bigger rotors etc.
my front brakes are warped pretty bad and i think its from somone not installing the pads the correct way or getting the right pads cause my rotors are warped and the shaking when braking is getting to the point where its really pissing me off..
id rather not just go resurface them and only see the warping rotors back a few thousand miles down the road.
anyways i was thinkin of just replacing the brake pads and rotors, and was wondering if somone can point me in the direction of what brands and things like slotted/drilled to stay away or go play with.
and im not looking for bling, but just overal cooling and somthing around 250$ for rotors.
my front brakes are warped pretty bad and i think its from somone not installing the pads the correct way or getting the right pads cause my rotors are warped and the shaking when braking is getting to the point where its really pissing me off..
id rather not just go resurface them and only see the warping rotors back a few thousand miles down the road.
anyways i was thinkin of just replacing the brake pads and rotors, and was wondering if somone can point me in the direction of what brands and things like slotted/drilled to stay away or go play with.
and im not looking for bling, but just overal cooling and somthing around 250$ for rotors.
12-09-2007, 01:14 PM
#3
I ♥ Acer
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 2,214
RE: Rotors
i would stick w/ Ford Racing / Power Slot / Brembo... name brands that are made in the USA.
stay away from knock offs since they tend to crack under heavy stress.
http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/pr...roducts_id=334 $149 front set
and buy some Hawk HPS Pads that are worth the price, most people will swear by hawk hps reason i recommended them, but to me any good name brand ceramic pads w/ friction plate are good to me :] Also americanmuscle.com carries the Hawk HPS pads
but i dont have to worry about any of these since i just upgraded my brakes to these... https://mustangforums.com/m_4297314/...tm.htm#4297574
stay away from knock offs since they tend to crack under heavy stress.
http://www.buyfordracing.com/shop/pr...roducts_id=334 $149 front set
and buy some Hawk HPS Pads that are worth the price, most people will swear by hawk hps reason i recommended them, but to me any good name brand ceramic pads w/ friction plate are good to me :] Also americanmuscle.com carries the Hawk HPS pads
but i dont have to worry about any of these since i just upgraded my brakes to these... https://mustangforums.com/m_4297314/...tm.htm#4297574
12-09-2007, 05:56 PM
#7
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: SF Bay.
Posts: 3,035
RE: Rotors
I would just get a mach1 brake kit and run blanks. They are, contrary to popular belief, the best setup and can produce better stopping distances than crossdrilled (and some slotted applications)
I had the article bookmarked, but I can't find it, heres the html version of this.
A standard cross-drilled brake rotor. 
A cracked, cross-drilled rotor. Risk versus reward, baby!
I had the article bookmarked, but I can't find it, heres the html version of this.
Let's look at some common rotor "modification" and "performance" upgrades that you may have been exposed to and try to separate the marketing from the engineering. We'll start with size. Bigger isn't always better.
Brake Rotor Size
Bigger rotors will make your friends think you are cool. Bigger rotors look sexy. But bigger rotors do not stop the car. What a bigger rotor will do is lower the overall operating temperature of the brakes - which is a GREAT idea IF your temperatures are causing problems with other parts of the braking system. Take, for example, an F500 racecar - a small 800 pound single seat formula car. While the brakes are certainly much smaller than those found on a 3,000 pound GT1 Camaro, that does not necessarily mean that they need to be made larger. In fact, swapping on a GT1 brake package would probably do more harm than good - that's a lot of steel hanging on the wheel that needs to accelerate each time the "go" pedal is pushed. So, the moral of this story is “Bigger is better until your temperatures are under control.” After that point, you are doing more harm than good...unless you really like the look.
Cross-Drilling
Cross-drilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads that are 50 to 60 years old, not a whole lot. Rotors were first “drilled” because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures - a process known as “gassing out”. These gasses then formed a thin layer between the brake pad face and the rotor, acting as a lubricant and effectively lowering the coefficient of friction. The holes were implemented to give the gasses somewhere to go. It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the same gassing out phenomenon as the early pads.
A standard cross-drilled brake rotor.
For this reason, the holes have carried over more as a design and lightening feature than a performance feature. Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, the temperatures can actually increase. The holes can actually create stress risers, allowing the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads - sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop. Want more evidence? Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it.
A cracked, cross-drilled rotor. Risk versus reward, baby!
The one glaring exception here is in the rare situation where the rotors are so oversized (look at any performance motorcycle or lighter formula car) that the rotors are drilled like Swiss cheese. While the issues of stress risers and brake pad wear are still present, these racing teams are replacing brake pads on a much more frequent basis - sometimes every race weekend. Drilling is used to reduce the mass of the rotor in spite of these concerns. (Remember – nothing comes for free. If these teams switched to non-drilled rotors, they would see lower operating temperatures and longer brake pad life - at the expense of higher weight. It's all about trade-offs.)
Slotting
Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean the face of the brake pads over time. This, in turn, helps to reduce the “glazing” often found during high-speed use, which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?)
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12-09-2007, 06:22 PM
#10
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: SF Bay.
Posts: 3,035
RE: Rotors
ORIGINAL: jEEd
very nice aereon, i remember reading that article via web awhile back.. i believe power slot had it?
very nice aereon, i remember reading that article via web awhile back.. i believe power slot had it?
Slotted rotors, don't do much for a street car, that is why I recommend blanks. But if you plan on autox'ing or soloII's they are pretty nice.
crossdrilled do nothing and are ricerish to me.