4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) MustangTechnical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within. Sponsored by Cruizin Concepts
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2003 SONIC BLUE GT
Procharger stage 2 kit (12psi)
03-04 cobra fuel system
TKO 600 tranny
steeda tri ax
75mm accufab t/b and plenum
sct 90mm mass air meter
many more mods...
465 rwhp 470 tq
DMM "should" be a car guys best friend. Check for power while pluged in at the back of the harness to the switches. Follow the wiring into the fuse box checking for bad wires and relays. (there may be a relay in the door but I'm not 100%) Also of course check the fuses first.
I tinted my windows yesterday and left the car in the sun yesterday and today. I had to replace my bezel and install collar and knee plates. Before starting anything, I rolled the windows half way down. I finish my job, get the dash tidy again, and go to roll the windows mostly back up. Now nothing. The windows worked on both switches before I started the dash work. Now neither switch works. No power at all. Checked all fuses and CB, and every fuse is fine. I've had some wiring installed for radio and other stuff before I bought the car, and have had a few sporatic loose wire connections on my autogauge ammeter and my stereo will cut out if I hit a bump or curve. The passenger window has been kinda flaky in rolling up, but, I usually get if up if I wait and play around. I figure I streched or fugged up the power wire to the drivers door while working on the dash. The way the switch works is if the drivers door switch does not have power, the passenger window switch wont work either. I just have to remove the knee plate and dig into the door harness area under the dash. Not a bad fix, just electrical problems suck! good thing I have a garage.
Everybody on this board is too smart for their own good
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