redevil01

http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/...products_id=49

this one here is 1900 not sure what the 4.6 assemblies usually run
it is rated to 650 hp that might be a tad overkill

mach1ford

my mach is getting forged rods, pistons, and rings now and i can tell you it isn't cheap getting those put in. Then again i'm in nm where everything is $$$$

MU71L4710N

bullit is the same engine it just has an aluminum intake manifold. its not really going to make more power but the stock manifold will handle the boost better with no risk of cracking.

tbirdscwd

The bullitt intake manifold has consistently put better numbers up vs the stock plastic intake on FI setups. It also is better power throughout the entire rpm range.

texas_stang02

Modular Mustang Racing (MMR) and DSS Racing are the first two companies that come to mind.

http://www.modularmustangracing.com/
http://www.dssracing.com/

there are some others that sell forged assemblies but most of the guys on here will recommend MMR. their short blocks are a pretty good deal if you don't want to have your engine out of the car for machining and assembly, but if it's not your daily driver then just get the rotating assembly, have your block machined, and assemble it all yourself. for cylinder heads, check into either getting yours ported, or you can buy ported PI heads from Patriot Performance, Fox Lake, MMR, and probably a few others. you can get to 400 rwhp without ported heads, but the heads and some aftermarket cams will make it a lot easier and require less boost. there are guys running 400-450 rwhp on stock bottom ends with no troubles, and others have blown engines at that level. it really depends on the tune also. you don't want it tuned so that the engine is running right on the edge or things can go south real quick unless you have a beefed up bottom end to handle it. also, if you know how to tune the car yourself, look into getting Sniper tuning software. i got the Special Forces software for about $400 and with that and a wideband o2 sensor (another couple hundred), you'll never have to pay someone else for a tune again (dyno tuning every time you make changes/upgradescan get expensive). and i'd recommend a supercharger over nitrous because with nitrous, the power only kicks in at WOT and that's not very useful for street driving. but if you take it to the track a lot and just want to lower your ET, then nitrous is a cheaper way to get you there.

fausty

well if you want a track beast and you do alot of drag racing you should get your engine built so you can throw anything at it if you decide to later on down the road.but honestly if you just want a fun street car that you can have fun with and daily drive a supercharger is your best option.building an engine could turn out being costly if you dont do the work yourself and with 390 hp with a supercharger you should be happy for a while and you could always build the engine later on if you decide its not enough power for you.just dont push the limits of the stock 2v internals runs a good tune so you wont have to be worrying about blowing it everytime you drive it.

Sxynerd

It's cheaper to make 400 than it is to make 300....

BolognaPony

Cheapest?

A few bolt ons, cams, and a 150 shot of nitrous dyno tuned.

Sxynerd

I'm not starting a N/A or a N20 -vs- S/C debate but, My buddy (doughboy4.6) was filling his tank 2 twice a week for 2 years. He could have bought a s/c and had the same "or more" hp and not had to deal with empty bottles and refills. Now he's S/C and couldn't be happier. That way I just went for the Vortech. One purchase and I'm done.

Obsequious1

+1 on the procharger.