4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) MustangTechnical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within. Sponsored by Cruizin Concepts
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aright guys so im rather new to the mustang and 4.6 engine arena but not to engine building and i just bought this new 01 vert and already need some more power. with just getting my taxes back its time. im looking to make 350 to 400 rwhp. whats the easiest and cost effective way of doing this FI? built engine? ive built a few ls engines so i know i could do it. anyone have any naturally aspirated combinations that made this kind of power?
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2001 gt conv. steeda shortthrow, mac catback, otherwise stock........
JLW's right there.. you'd spend a lot more trying build 350-400 RWHP out of an N/A block than you would F/I.. Though I'd be careful about running anymore than about 8 psi without an intercooler, maybe 10 with.. And that because the stock 4.6 2v's have both cast crank and rods/hypereutectics.. Going F/I, you're safe up to about 350-375 RWHP.. Much more than that and it's BOOM!!
Hrrmmm.. I've been looking at Maximum Motorsports and Steeda for the forged assemblies myself... though all I need are the rods/rings as the mach came with the same forged crank that was in the 03/04 cobra.. Looking back on it that's probably what I should've done first.. lol
And I'm fairly certain the Bullitt's do make a little more power than the stock 01 2v's do.. don't quote me on that though..
there are some others that sell forged assemblies but most of the guys on here will recommend MMR. their short blocks are a pretty good deal if you don't want to have your engine out of the car for machining and assembly, but if it's not your daily driver then just get the rotating assembly, have your block machined, and assemble it all yourself. for cylinder heads, check into either getting yours ported, or you can buy ported PI heads from Patriot Performance, Fox Lake, MMR, and probably a few others. you can get to 400 rwhp without ported heads, but the heads and some aftermarket cams will make it a lot easier and require less boost. there are guys running 400-450 rwhp on stock bottom ends with no troubles, and others have blown engines at that level. it really depends on the tune also. you don't want it tuned so that the engine is running right on the edge or things can go south real quick unless you have a beefed up bottom end to handle it. also, if you know how to tune the car yourself, look into getting Sniper tuning software. i got the Special Forces software for about $400 and with that and a wideband o2 sensor (another couple hundred), you'll never have to pay someone else for a tune again (dyno tuning every time you make changes/upgradescan get expensive). and i'd recommend a supercharger over nitrous because with nitrous, the power only kicks in at WOT and that's not very useful for street driving. but if you take it to the track a lot and just want to lower your ET, then nitrous is a cheaper way to get you there.
well if you want a track beast and you do alot of drag racing you should get your engine built so you can throw anything at it if you decide to later on down the road.but honestly if you just want a fun street car that you can have fun with and daily drive a supercharger is your best option.building an engine could turn out being costly if you dont do the work yourself and with 390 hp with a supercharger you should be happy for a while and you could always build the engine later on if you decide its not enough power for you.just dont push the limits of the stock 2v internals runs a good tune so you wont have to be worrying about blowing it everytime you drive it.
I'm not starting a N/A or a N20 -vs- S/C debate but, My buddy (doughboy4.6) was filling his tank 2 twice a week for 2 years. He could have bought a s/c and had the same "or more" hp and not had to deal with empty bottles and refills. Now he's S/C and couldn't be happier. That way I just went for the Vortech. One purchase and I'm done.
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