Kmoran81

Ok, So my clutch is adjusted perfect. When I pull the fork back, the T/O Bearing is about 3/8" away from the splines on the pressure plate. But it doesnt stay that way. When driving the car it doesnt push off the splinesfar enough to stop the T/O bearing from spinning. Its almost as if I need some type ofreturn spring on it. If I tighten it up then it stays against the pressure plate but if I loosen it then theres slack in the cable and it just spins. Anyone run into this issue? Can I fabricate a return spring?

timeformiller44

what kind of clutch do you have...and how did u adjust it when u first did it...and do you have some sort of aftermarket quadrant or something

Kmoran81

Its a auto to manual swap. Everything is new. 10.5" Alum. flywheel, Ford pilot bearing, king cobra clutch w/ included T/O bearing, UPR quadrant & Firewall adjuster with adustable clutch cable, Reman TR3650 trans & alum. driveshaft.

I have it adjusted so that theres a 3/8" gap between t/o bearing and Pressure plate teeth. Im pretty sure the clutch is adjusted perfect. Its just that when I release it, it doesnt give me the gap that I adjusted it to. I have to manually pull back on the fork once to get the 3/8" gap.

(Basically when I let the clutch out the t/o bearing barely touches the splines, just enough to keep it spinning. once I pull the fork back to get the 3/8" gap, it stays there)

tbirdscwd

What are you adjusting besides the cable or firewall adjuster? And what kind of quadrant are you using? Make sure the correct part of the clutch cable is sitting in the end of the fork, there are two little parts at the xmsn end of the cable. The round part should be sitting in the divot of the fork, not the piece on the end. Once you get the cable in the correct place, then you shouldn't need to adjust anything on the bottom. All your adjustments should be made on the firewall adjuster. If you are using a double hook quadrant the make sure you are using the correct hook for your cable. The one closest to the firewall is for the stock clutch cable and the farther one is for an aftermarket adjustable one.

cliffyk

Where did you get this 3/8" specification? [/align][/align]The clutch cable should be adjusted so that there is 1-1/4 to 1-3/8" freeplay, I.e. motion before you feel the ToB start to press decidedly on the Belleville spring fingers. It's normal for the ToB to be touching the spring when you release the pedal, and spinning a bit (it's not loaded at this point so it won't hurt anything). In normal driving it will work itself back a bit more...[/align][/align]

Kmoran81

Im not talking about pedal effort/height. Im talking about the actual clearance between the t/o bearing and the pressure plate fingers when the clutch is not depressed.
And the t/o bearing is not supposed to be spinning all the time, only when the pedal is depressed. If it was constantly spinning it will wear out very prematurely. Alot of people have done it on here.

cliffyk

[/align][/align]I understand what youare referring to, and believe me I've changed more clutches in more cars in the last 45 years than you've probably driven in your lifetime--however where did you get the 3/8" ToB to spring fingers clearance spec from? It may be an assembly guide value from somewhere, however it is not part of the clutch control mechanism adjustment procedure.[/align][/align]The ToB should not be pressing on the spring with any force, however it does not completely retract either--it's not unusual for it to "kiss" the spring. Spinning under no/very little load from kissing the spring fingers will not prematurely wear the ToB.[/align][/align]If there's slack in the clutch cable, and you can push the throwout lever back 'til there is 3/8" clearance, and it stays there--thenthe cableis not adjusted properly and there's your problem...[/align][/align][/align]

tbirdscwd

Thats not what you need to be worried about when adjusting your clutch. You need to adjust the clutch until there is 1 1/4" - 1 3/8" play in the pedal before the clutch begins to engage. There is no mechanism that is gonna pull the TOB/clutch fork any farther back than the fingers push it when the pedal is released.

cisurfer

umm, you jave a t3650? you only can use the king cobra clutch on t5 and t45...and i think its an 11inch flywheel...

Kmoran81

MM&FF magazine says 1/2" --- http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co.../quadrant.html

And FRPP says 1/4"---
http://www.fordracingparts.com/downl...02D302E302.pdf

So I picked in the middle and went with 3/8's

And I did a google search of "mustang throw out bearing" and theres about 20 articles that say the bearing should not spin at all when the pedal is not pressed down.

If these sources are completely wrong and the bearing is always supposed to spin, it makes a hell of a lot of rattling noise after it gets warm and sounds f'n terrible. Maybe i shoulda just went with the centerforce