2002 GT 1/4 Gears
#1
2002 GT 1/4 Gears
I just started running my bone stock 2002 Mustang GT convertable with a auto tranny at the track for fun. My friends say I should do a gear swap to 373 would this be the right gear to run for the 1/4 mile and how and where would this help me. Right now I am running about 14.8390 and about 92 MPH in the 1/4 mile and 75 MPH at the 1/8 mile..
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
#3
I just started running my bone stock 2002 Mustang GT convertable with a auto tranny at the track for fun. My friends say I should do a gear swap to 373 would this be the right gear to run for the 1/4 mile and how and where would this help me. Right now I am running about 14.8390 and about 92 MPH in the 1/4 mile and 75 MPH at the 1/8 mile..
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
#4
#7
Those times are stock hardtop 5 spd times, a vert. with auto will be slower although with a good driver he should be a bit quicker
#8
I have a '99 vert/auto and 4.10's. Consider this, at 65mph it turns 2500rpm's or 26.5mph/1000 rpm in OD. With an auto you will need gears, a better converter(recommend a dirty dog as the best bang for the buck) and a tuner with a good tune to hit that 100 mph most likely but the gears are a start. I have had the best tunes from Brenspeed.com and highly recommend him. Getting some power and a converter that will hold a lock at WOT does wonders! mark
#9
I think someone else said it earlier... you're probably at 14.8 because your vert weighs more than the standard GT. And yeah, As far as I know, a change in gears would greatly improve your time (bout a sec or so).
Wouldn't it be better to get a couple of other bolt-on mods in there first before jumpin to somethin like gears though? Either way, let us know what you decide!
Wouldn't it be better to get a couple of other bolt-on mods in there first before jumpin to somethin like gears though? Either way, let us know what you decide!
#10
My '99 vert/auto weighs about #3500. Sorry but a set of 4.10's will not come close to taking a second off an et. Wish they did, maybe .2 at best on a stock motor car. They will enhance the other mods that follow.
The only mods I would consider would be:
1. The gears, as low as can be tolerated, 4.10's or even 4.30's if there is not extended highway driving.
2. A 3800rpm stall convetrter with the correct tune the stall will NOT be noticed in regular driving. I HIGHLY recommend www.dirtydogperformance.com Alan will set you auto guys up with a converter that will handle a WOT lock. THAT has the capability of dropping fcrom .5-.7 from the car's et. My Brenspeed tune has a part throttle lock in 2ND GEAR so it locks as third would, onlyh in 2nd gear. I will have Brent change the 1-2 shift tro occur about 500rpm sooner to take advantage of that lock in 2nd. With 4.10's I can leave a stop in 2nd gear with no bog.
3. I had good luck with the www.jlttruecoldair.com intake pipe but an S&B filter(what JLT uses) will do well for less as it is not a huge gain but better than the 75mm BBK TB/plenum or the Steeda UDP's I am selling.
4. Cams-Hitech stage 2's are likely the best bang here as they are designed to wolrk with stock heads and intake. One guy made 293whp with even the stock TB/plenum. Auto's will likely get 35whp as there is a rulkke of thumb that an auto get's 8% less due to parasitic losses.
5. LT's, what I have avoided due to the cost and the inability to do the job myself. I dion't know how many guys have tried Flowtech's but they are owned by Holley like Hookers are so I would expect decent quality but with lesser quality steel. I would be sure whatever brand is used that they first fit with an auto and a big plus is the ability to remove the tranny without removing the headers!
As far as exhaust goes the typical catback is worth 5whp at best. The headers and mid-pipe are where the largest gains are. Hitech likes the one with the mid-pipe with the box in it, can't remember the name. 13-18whp from headers to catback but more under the curve making it worthwhile but possibly something I would do last.
Gears, converter and cams are the 3 biggest gains as I see it. Possibly a 1.5 second drop with a good tune, SCTXcal.
I sold my BBK TB/plenum, PYPES catback and am selling the UDP's. Also sold the JLT in favor of a DIY RAI/CAI with the mentioned filter and a scoop with piping leading oncoming air into the strock aircan that came with the SVO intake. These bolt on's aren't worth the expense IMHO. Good luck. If you need numbers for gearing other than the 4.10's or 4.30's just ask.
The only mods I would consider would be:
1. The gears, as low as can be tolerated, 4.10's or even 4.30's if there is not extended highway driving.
2. A 3800rpm stall convetrter with the correct tune the stall will NOT be noticed in regular driving. I HIGHLY recommend www.dirtydogperformance.com Alan will set you auto guys up with a converter that will handle a WOT lock. THAT has the capability of dropping fcrom .5-.7 from the car's et. My Brenspeed tune has a part throttle lock in 2ND GEAR so it locks as third would, onlyh in 2nd gear. I will have Brent change the 1-2 shift tro occur about 500rpm sooner to take advantage of that lock in 2nd. With 4.10's I can leave a stop in 2nd gear with no bog.
3. I had good luck with the www.jlttruecoldair.com intake pipe but an S&B filter(what JLT uses) will do well for less as it is not a huge gain but better than the 75mm BBK TB/plenum or the Steeda UDP's I am selling.
4. Cams-Hitech stage 2's are likely the best bang here as they are designed to wolrk with stock heads and intake. One guy made 293whp with even the stock TB/plenum. Auto's will likely get 35whp as there is a rulkke of thumb that an auto get's 8% less due to parasitic losses.
5. LT's, what I have avoided due to the cost and the inability to do the job myself. I dion't know how many guys have tried Flowtech's but they are owned by Holley like Hookers are so I would expect decent quality but with lesser quality steel. I would be sure whatever brand is used that they first fit with an auto and a big plus is the ability to remove the tranny without removing the headers!
As far as exhaust goes the typical catback is worth 5whp at best. The headers and mid-pipe are where the largest gains are. Hitech likes the one with the mid-pipe with the box in it, can't remember the name. 13-18whp from headers to catback but more under the curve making it worthwhile but possibly something I would do last.
Gears, converter and cams are the 3 biggest gains as I see it. Possibly a 1.5 second drop with a good tune, SCTXcal.
I sold my BBK TB/plenum, PYPES catback and am selling the UDP's. Also sold the JLT in favor of a DIY RAI/CAI with the mentioned filter and a scoop with piping leading oncoming air into the strock aircan that came with the SVO intake. These bolt on's aren't worth the expense IMHO. Good luck. If you need numbers for gearing other than the 4.10's or 4.30's just ask.