4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

Intake cracked. Hydrolock

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Old 11-06-2008, 05:19 PM
  #11  
cliffyk
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Originally Posted by pinto18
Good point i was going to replace the spark plugs anyway. Ill get right to it thanx. One more thing i remember something about spark plugs blowing out if you dont install properly. Do You happen to remember what cylinder that was just as a precaution or if its all cylinders??

It's all cylinders, and predominately (I know I'll get flamed here) because they were not properly torqued on installation.

Ford used a counter-bored partial threaded plug bore design on our cars to minimise the potential for the steel spark plug to seize into the aluminum head over its 100k mile service life--which means that in normal service the plugs would only be changed 2 or 3 times over the entire engine life.

They also chose to use gasket-less, tapered seat, plugs which require much more attention to installation torque that gasketed, flat seat plugs. Unfortunately there are a number of mechanics out there (both shade-tree and working for dealerships) who feel that their wrists/arms are sufficiently well experienced/calibrated that they "don't need no stinking torque wrenches".

So, like the infamous early Miata "short-crank nose" issue, we have the infamous "modular engine spark plug blowout" issue. And something well engineered but requiring somewhat meticulous reassembly attains legend status as a "problem".

Short answer, go to Harbour Freight and buy a 3/8" drive torque wrench and torque the plugs to 11 to 13 ft.lbs. Set the wrench for 12 and go at it. IF you do want to do it without a torque wrench (not recommended) then tighten them snug, hand tight, and then tighten 1/16th turn more.

That's right, the difference between hand tight snug and proper torque is 1/16th of a turn! 1/32nd of a turn will leave them too loose and 1/8th of a turn gets into "strip or weaken the threads" territory.

So, go buy a torque wrench unless you want to have a real problem "down the road"...

Last edited by cliffyk; 11-06-2008 at 05:25 PM.
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Old 11-06-2008, 08:03 PM
  #12  
sweet99
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How faR DID YOU DRIVE WITH COOLAnt leaking from the intake? HOPE NOT MUCH BECAUSE YOU CAN OVERHEAT QUITE QUICKLY AND THE REASON IT IS NOT TURNING OVER COULD BE DUE TO MAJOR DAMAGE IF IT OVERHEATED! Sorry for the caps but this is so important. NEVER Drive with a LEAK. stop AND CALL FOR HELP! I HAD THIS HAPPEN TWICE. Overheated a Festiva winter rat and it had but 77k miles and another 77k left but the body was about to crumble, not a big loss, the other was VERY expensive. Hope it is OK, let us know. Mark
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Old 11-07-2008, 03:26 AM
  #13  
cliffyk
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He never said it's not turning over, he said it won't start...
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Old 11-10-2008, 02:17 AM
  #14  
pinto18
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Yea i know they over heat rather quickly but my house was only 3 blocks away so i had to go for it. Im still waiting on the parts but i have it all taken apart and ready for the new. Hopefully everything is still ok tho 2 but ill keep it posted
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Old 11-10-2008, 11:29 AM
  #15  
BlackMage
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its not that hard to tear apart and put it back together, take pics, and use my guide i have written up, its real forward and pretty self explanitory.

https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l-1996-2004-modular-mustang/342395-pi-intake-swap-how-to.html
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