DeathRattle

I think a 3800 stall converter is too much if you're gonna drive the car on the street, and especially with 4.10's...I mean the car is gonna be screaming...why not go with a 3000 stall...?? I am not sure what you mean by saying a Teskid is more than you need because if that were the case then a cast iron block would be more than you need as well...and what is your hang-up with long tube headers...??

sweet99

I have a 3000-3200rpm stall now and I can say that with cams an NA 4.6 needs stall to get it into the power range. With the right tune you would not know what the stall was. I have mine lock up at part throttle in 2nd gear and at WOT after the shifts, I may change the WOT to later in the rpm range some. Also have it lock in 2nd gear at part throttle sooner.

As far as the Teksid goes I was of the understanding that it was a waste to use it and only go NA. I also like handling, I think I explained that.
I have my car lowered the minimum, 1.2 inches witrh progressive rate springs and the PYPES catted x-pipe has many scrapes, what would that mean with LT's? What does a ceramic coated set of LT's cost? I can get coated hookers for $600. Can they be attached and carefully drop the motor into the correct position, I have heard of one guy doing that by himself. I just don't wish to pay $1000. for a set of KOOKs and have them scrape the ground. Heck, I remember a guy with a Saleen SC and stock manifolds because of the header install hassle. I think the shop said $400. to install. Mark

SVTeeshirt

hmm Im going Teksid/4v N/A, your goals are alot like mine but i want a little more power than you do, Im going 11.5 compression also .020 but im using 01 cobra C heads, these don't have as much intake port as the B heads alowing you to make power lower in the RPM range, MMR quoted me @ $450 for a stage 1 port as that is all i want for the mid-range power i want. I got the 01 intake manifold to go with it which will also be ported, oversized PS/ALt/Waterpump pullies and Comp Cams Extreme Energy cams (400s).
Along with suspension U/L control arms adjustable coilovers Full length subframe connectors, i hope to be able to break 11s with a tire and a >1.8 60'.

Yes the B heads will make more power but with way more RPM and since you're not going for a complete N/A BEAST i think the C head build might be for you as well, should net you that 325whp quite easily. FYI the Heads i bought complete with cams and valve springs (all stock all new) for $410-> $480 to my door. Im gonna sell the cams and valve springs and stick the comp cams in. ok well GL with your build.

sweet99

how did you get new heads for that cost!

Ehmark

LOL you should have answered that post about my ported cobra heads. I dont need them and would let them go for $350 because this semester has been so expensive.

sweet99

I remember your name but nothing about heads for sale. PM with pics if you haqve something for sale. Mark, eh?!

RayzerFish

Yes you can drop the engine in with the LT's already installed. I've done it twice now all by myself, in my driveway with a cheap hoist from Harbor Freight. I had to do it from the pass. side of the car too because the body kit I have the nose is too long. It wasn't easy by myself, but the second time went alot faster than the first. It went in LT headers, heads, starter & tranny all in one. I only left the intake off to have better visibility, but I bet it would go in with that too. I'm building N/A too and have similar goals. I'm shooting for 350 rwhp. I considered the 4v or 5.4 too but decided against it. I've already got too much invested in the heads & cams to switch to 4v. From what I gathered the 5.4 is just a little wider due to the heads & the reason you probably dread the thought of LT's is because of the already rediculous space there is to work with in that area. I had to loosen the pass side header recently when I did my AODE to T-45 conversion, and I swear I'd almost prefer pulling the engine again instead of trying that again!

sweet99

Well, the motor is almost done. I went with Nick McKinney's heads as the trick flows kept getting delayed, flow is 210/175, not bad. Cams are Comp with 230*/234*and .550" lift. Using the SVO intake and will insulate it from heat as well as possible. Compression turned out to be 11:1 but with a high effective compression. Stall will be 3800rpm which is like stock with the right tune. 4.10's and I did get headers, Edelbrock Victors, an excellent header with merge collectors and stepped tubes, less than $500. Hoping for a 12.5 second ride that also is good on the interstate. I am expecting a 6500rpm shift point.Mark

WhiteFoxGT

Pics?