4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

2V NA TEKSID BUILD-ADVICE/TIPS/EXPERIENCES

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Old 11-23-2008, 08:07 PM
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sweet99
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Default 2V NA TEKSID BUILD-ADVICE/TIPS/EXPERIENCES

As the title says I am building a 2V Teksid. So far here are the car and motor mods. Car:
1. '99 convertible/auto GT
2. Stall will be 3800rpm-Dirty dog converter
3. 4.10's
4. SVO intake port matched to PI heads.
5. Need help here-all I have for exhaust mods is a PYPES catted X-pipe, hate the thought of LT's. Has anyone installed their motor with LT's already attached? Hookers maybe with the auto? Anyone have luck with Flowtech's?
6. Has a DIT RAI/CAI


Motor build:
1. 4.5cc dish Probe pistons-compression from 10.5:1 to 11.5:1, anyone running higher?
2. MMR rods-Hastings rings-can anyone identify hastings rings? Bought ebay and would like
to know what they are for sure?
3. Hitech stage 2 cams
4. Cobra oil pump
5. Some aftermarket heads will be added. TFS would be nice but at $2400. or so might not be practical with the headers needed.
6. Hitech has heads, $1295.I imagine a lot of good heads will be for sale when the TFS heads are released.
Iknow the Teksid needs a coolant hole drilled and the swing arms have a threaded in pin. Something else is different but I can't remember right now. I am looking for Federalmogul HP series bearings, rods and mains turned .25mm.Anyone know a good vendor? modularperformance has the best prices so far, $80./$88. I'll use new timing components, have the cams degreed. Probably get at least new lifters and maybe rockers. How long do rockers last? Mine have side to side play but otherwise seem OK.
I'll mention headers again. I have avoided them for 2 years, poor return for the cash but with higher comporession, the cams, headwork, fresh build and an expected 6500rpm redline they should help. I need to start a shortie thread.
Any tips and/or suggestions are appreciated. Considered a windage tray but might not be worth the $80. for this motor?
Something else is different on the Teksid but can't remember, anyone? Suggestions appreciated/constructive criticism also! THX!
5. Steeda UDP's
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Old 11-24-2008, 03:22 AM
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Ehmark
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That is well into ported cobra head territory just so you know.
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Old 11-24-2008, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Ehmark
That is well into ported cobra head territory just so you know.
What do you mean?
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Old 11-24-2008, 10:46 AM
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really just the wrong motor for an n/a build imo
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Old 11-24-2008, 11:09 AM
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I'd say skip degreeing the cams and go ahead and get the windage tray...I'd also compare the price of the build up to a 4V conversion and see which is more practical. 96-98 4V heads go for about $300 these days and you could have them ported for about $1000 which puts you at the price of a ported 2V head...BTW, I have a 4.6 Teskid block decked and bored .020 (if you're interested)...
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Old 11-24-2008, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by DeathRattle
I'd say skip degreeing the cams and go ahead and get the windage tray...I'd also compare the price of the build up to a 4V conversion and see which is more practical. 96-98 4V heads go for about $300 these days and you could have them ported for about $1000 which puts you at the price of a ported 2V head...BTW, I have a 4.6 Teskid block decked and bored .020 (if you're interested)...
I'm using a Teksid block. Pistons are .020" and boring/honing will not be much. I have the "B" heads here. $300.really? How about the heads I have, those port controlled things. I guess that part could be disabled huh? The cam "girdle" got damaged so some sort of cam caps would have to be adapted and align honed? Windage tray is a go then, might as well with the motor out. To the poster saying the wrong motor, I assume you mean using a Terksid block and forged internals. Habit on the forged and as for the Teksid I can adapt the knock sensors to power lights in the cabin as I am quite deaf to knock.
I also got it for $140. with heads, intake, really everything but the front cover and some timing components, someone smashed the cover to take the tensioners, guides and pins.
If the harness was not so "frightening" and also destroyed by others I might have tried it. Then again, I have new Hitech cams for a 2V.
So if someoine could/would walk me through the 4V addition and can get a harness that would bolt to my firewall, lets go for it, what about cams, regrinds?
So I sell the Hitechs, SVO with complete install kit, get the cam caps replaced somehow, get regrinds, what about the harness, that is scarry. I may have a time getting the 2V back in there! LOL
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Old 11-24-2008, 11:51 AM
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I believe Fobra and Ehmark were implying that you should do a 4V build as opposed to a 2V...That's what I believe Fobra meant by "wrong motor"...The 4V heads do have higher flow numbers so do some shopping around...
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Old 11-24-2008, 01:36 PM
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well yes and no, I was more speaking to the point that a 4.6 isnt the best starting place to go n/a ... but depends on what your looking for I guess.
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Old 11-24-2008, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Fobra
well yes and no, I was more speaking to the point that a 4.6 isnt the best starting place to go n/a ... but depends on what your looking for I guess.
What do you recommend...?? Personally, I'd say do a 5.4...having experienced the difference in torque between the 4.6 and the 5.4 I think you can't go wrong...
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Old 11-24-2008, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by DeathRattle
What do you recommend...?? Personally, I'd say do a 5.4...having experienced the difference in torque between the 4.6 and the 5.4 I think you can't go wrong...
Guys my list of cars I have owned includes 5 Buick GS cars '66-'71 including 3-455's, one a vert, 454 El Camino,'82 Vette, '69 Dodge R/T 4-speed convertible, 3 Mitsubishi turbo cars, the last running 30psi and mid 11's at 122mph.

Yeah a Teksid is more than needed for my 300/325whp goal but since I practically got it for free and I like handling why not drop 80# off the front, maybe relocate the battery and drop 100#? Can the 4.6 in the vert run a low 12, even a 12.75? That would be fine.
With the 3800stall, 4.10's and the fresh motor with higher compression, cams and some heads it should run well. However if anyone would care to make an offer for everything I would be willing to consider it! Really don't care for headers and this motor but it seems I will have to give in to them. Thanks.
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