383 Stroker Motor in a 1996 Mustang GT
12-04-2008, 03:33 PM
#11
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Idaho
Posts: 96
you do not really need much to do it make your motor mounts set the motor as far back as you can i beat in the fire wall alittle to make more room. and make tran mount as far as wireing we that is easy to. I did notice on mine had starter problems not enough power comeing off of the ignition. i am glad to hear someone eles doing it i a haveing alot of fun with mine! but it is real easy and the mustang seems to like the chevy!!!
12-04-2008, 03:44 PM
#12
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Waller, Texas
Posts: 14
12-04-2008, 03:46 PM
#13
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
From the original posting that I saw:
Just thought I’d share some before and after pictures of my Ford GAA tank engine.
All aluminum 1100 cubic inch V8 used in WWII Sherman Tanks. These were gas burners rated at 500 HP and 1050 Ft. Lbs. of torque for military service, but are capable of much much more using mostly stock parts.
They feature a 60 degree vee, 5.4 bore x 6.0 stroke, 180 degree factory billet cranks, pent roof combustion chambers, shaft driven DOHC’s, 4 valves per cylinder, and dual mags.
They are pretty high tech. engines, especially considering they were built in the early 40’s. I’ve been working on getting one of mine going for the last couple of years, and should be cranking it within a week or so.
It’s setting in my 70 Mustang right now which I plan on taking on short cruises when finished, 24 gallons of alcohol wont go very far. It is bolted to a heavily modified Powerglide right now. Wilcap ( Pat McGuire ) built the adapter and flexplate for me
All aluminum 1100 cubic inch V8 used in WWII Sherman Tanks. These were gas burners rated at 500 HP and 1050 Ft. Lbs. of torque for military service, but are capable of much much more using mostly stock parts.
They feature a 60 degree vee, 5.4 bore x 6.0 stroke, 180 degree factory billet cranks, pent roof combustion chambers, shaft driven DOHC’s, 4 valves per cylinder, and dual mags.
They are pretty high tech. engines, especially considering they were built in the early 40’s. I’ve been working on getting one of mine going for the last couple of years, and should be cranking it within a week or so.
It’s setting in my 70 Mustang right now which I plan on taking on short cruises when finished, 24 gallons of alcohol wont go very far. It is bolted to a heavily modified Powerglide right now. Wilcap ( Pat McGuire ) built the adapter and flexplate for me
12-04-2008, 03:49 PM
#14
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Waller, Texas
Posts: 14
The 8.8 is a pretty stout rear, unlike the 10 bolt garbage in F-bodies. I wouldnt worry about a 9". As far as structural rigidity I'd get some full length subframe connectors and weld the torque boxes. combine that with some good upper+lower control arms and you got a solid car man
12-04-2008, 04:00 PM
#15
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Waller, Texas
Posts: 14
you do not really need much to do it make your motor mounts set the motor as far back as you can i beat in the fire wall alittle to make more room. and make tran mount as far as wireing we that is easy to. I did notice on mine had starter problems not enough power comeing off of the ignition. i am glad to hear someone eles doing it i a haveing alot of fun with mine! but it is real easy and the mustang seems to like the chevy!!!
12-04-2008, 11:15 PM
#16
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Idaho
Posts: 96
i just ran the ford starter selanoid or how ever you spell it to the chevy starter selanoid and nerver had any problems from then on so basicly ran it like a relay to give more power to the chevy starter selanoid.
but once you get going it is real easy really after you make the motor mounts i do not think i would waist money on buying them or any kit because it is all real easy besides the headers but i a planning on makeing my own anyways right now i am useing manafolds againm spelling sucks!!!!
12-04-2008, 11:29 PM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: NH
Posts: 2,236
12-05-2008, 05:27 AM
#18
If you are big on chevys and have alot of knowledge on them but have no knowledge on the fords and you said you only paid 1500, why dont u just go out and buy a old iroc camaro for 500 bucks and but the 383 in that will save u money in the long run instead of paying for parts to swap a chevy in the mustang.
12-05-2008, 08:29 AM
#19
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Waller, Texas
Posts: 14
If you are big on chevys and have alot of knowledge on them but have no knowledge on the fords and you said you only paid 1500, why dont u just go out and buy a old iroc camaro for 500 bucks and but the 383 in that will save u money in the long run instead of paying for parts to swap a chevy in the mustang.
12-05-2008, 09:30 AM
#20
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Missouri
Posts: 4,503
Yeah i wouldn't imagine it bein too hard...just lots of money for swapping parts and stuff. But i guess w/e you wanna do...its ur car. If people give you crap...look at it this way...you got the looks of a mustang w/ the power of a maro lol. Best of both worlds.