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It only charges 25% less at idle, and most high output alternators actually put out less than stockers at idle, they just make up for it once the RPMs go over 1200 or so. Unless you have to sit in heavy traffic without going over 1200 rpms for long periods of time, that 25% won't hurt you at all. You may watch your voltage drop a little if you get stuck in traffic, but hit the gas a little, and watch it pop right back up to normal.
Yup. That or a good quality battery like Optima which holds a charge longer.
^ im also intrested, also whats the chance of one of these failing and blowing ur car up?
I've got approximately 35,000 miles on my Meziere electric water pump. Mine is wired using a relay. While the waterpump has never failed I have had a relay fail cutting off all power to the pump. The first sign of trouble was when the car started blowing coolant out the radiator cap. This occurred even before the tempature gage started moving upward. When the tempature gage started climbing I pulled into a parking lot and shut off the motor before the gage went into the red. When the car cooled off I could put a coolant in it but it just started blowing it out the radiator cap again when it warmed up.
Trouble shooting the problem was a bear. You cannot hear an electric waterpump run. By bypassing the relay and temporarily wiring directly to the battery my mechanic found the problem. There was no damage to the car and I now keep a spare $8.95 relay in the glove box. Personally, I think wiring directly to the fuel pump sensor wire is a better way of wiring the pump.
pretty much everycar thats out there now comes with a ton of relays... Taking power from the wire that feeds the fuel pump is an awful idea, seeing as how most guy will actually increase wire size and quality and actually drop fuel pump duty cycle..
dont mean to jack the thread, but anyone hear anything good about the edelbrock pump. summit advertises it as better cooling than the OEM. Runs about $50 more. Also what up with $50 thermostats?