Help me understand battle boxes. Please
#1
Help me understand battle boxes. Please
I have aftermarket LCA's and UCA's going on the car this spring. I have heard from a member that unless u have battle boxes don't install the upper because the torque box welds won't hold. Something about how the rubber bushing in the stock UCA takes all of the force, and the urethane bushings in the aftermarket UCA will transfer more violent energy to the torque box. I did a search but I only found topics related to classic and Fox stangs nothing on New edges. Now my question is this, I have a auto without any major mods and I don't take it to the track. Will I need battle boxes?
#2
I have aftermarket LCA's and UCA's going on the car this spring. I have heard from a member that unless u have battle boxes don't install the upper because the torque box welds won't hold. Something about how the rubber bushing in the stock UCA takes all of the force, and the urethane bushings in the aftermarket UCA will transfer more violent energy to the torque box. I did a search but I only found topics related to classic and Fox stangs nothing on New edges. Now my question is this, I have a auto without any major mods and I don't take it to the track. Will I need battle boxes?
#3
Wow really, I always thought they would help with wheel hop and add traction for the occational "spirited drive". So basically I just wasted my money. Also I hate to sound like a noob but what is "suspension bind"? Google didn't help me.
#4
Aereon is mostly correct ... Hey Wai Wai
I would suggest you replace them BUT with the following from ***HERE*** ...
and ***THESE*** as well...
These are a MAJOR improvement over stock for both handling AND launching your ride. They will, however, add some NV but not so much H*, IMO, so would need to sacrifice some comfort for control.
These greatly reduce the suspension bind caused mostly by the UCA's and what Aereon was speaking about. Upon axle articulation, the LCA's/UCA's are asked to twist and will only twist so far until they create what is called "snap oversteer" (UCA's mostly responsible). This issue sends the back of car suddenly around and a driver cannot steer quick enough to avoid it.
HTH
Jazzer
* NVH = Noise Vibration Harshness
I would suggest you replace them BUT with the following from ***HERE*** ...
and ***THESE*** as well...
These are a MAJOR improvement over stock for both handling AND launching your ride. They will, however, add some NV but not so much H*, IMO, so would need to sacrifice some comfort for control.
These greatly reduce the suspension bind caused mostly by the UCA's and what Aereon was speaking about. Upon axle articulation, the LCA's/UCA's are asked to twist and will only twist so far until they create what is called "snap oversteer" (UCA's mostly responsible). This issue sends the back of car suddenly around and a driver cannot steer quick enough to avoid it.
HTH
Jazzer
* NVH = Noise Vibration Harshness
#5
Those are sweet! I have GR2 shocks (temporary since my OEM are shot) X2 ball joints, h&r SS, steeda bumpsteer, offset bushings, and shark CC plates. I was going to do the rear control arms to and hoping that this setup would be decent compared to the busted OEM shocks and springs I have now. I already have the LCA and UCA's I just want to know will they damage my car. I can take the harshness because there is no way in hell it car ride worse than it does now. If I go over RR tracks it feels like we are on a trampoline, and the rear end bounces over the smallest of bumps.
#6
I don't see them damaging your car, just limiting the proper oporation of your rear suspension. With poly/poly bushings (as I think you have, but can confirm if you up a link here) you have total bind in rear end.
If you look at the UCA's/LCA's I linked above, you will see a spherical end on each one. this allows the axle to articulate and greatly reduce, if not eliminate, the bind in your rear suspension.
If I am reading your post correctly, you are running H&R Super Sport springs? and are a bit low for my taste and will generally contribute to less than ideal characteristics of good handling ride. You are pretty much forced to run a stiff shock and this will contribute to poor handling. Most people don't understand that a stiffer ride usually leads to WORSE handling on the street. The harshness you are experiencing will usually lead to poor handling and sore kidneys
I recommend you go no more than 1.5" drop and the above LCA's/UCA's for a wonderful start to a good handling ride and comfortable as well.
HTH
Jazzer
If you look at the UCA's/LCA's I linked above, you will see a spherical end on each one. this allows the axle to articulate and greatly reduce, if not eliminate, the bind in your rear suspension.
If I am reading your post correctly, you are running H&R Super Sport springs? and are a bit low for my taste and will generally contribute to less than ideal characteristics of good handling ride. You are pretty much forced to run a stiff shock and this will contribute to poor handling. Most people don't understand that a stiffer ride usually leads to WORSE handling on the street. The harshness you are experiencing will usually lead to poor handling and sore kidneys
I recommend you go no more than 1.5" drop and the above LCA's/UCA's for a wonderful start to a good handling ride and comfortable as well.
HTH
Jazzer
#7
From all that I've read and been told here, especially if you run spherical bushings, it puts a good amount of stress on the torque boxes. Some people will tell you to get the torque box reinforcements like you can buy off UPR with the setup shown above, others will say just have a good welder weld up your torque boxes. Me personally, I'd do one of those options just as a precaution. I'd hate to launch at the track and rip a UCA off the frame.
#9
http://www.jegs.com/p/Granatelli/744999/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/p/Granatelli/758397/10002/-1
Those are the control arms I have, man I thought I did enough research but there is always something that u miss. Jazzer thanks for all the good info, none of the parts are on the car yet so they can always be changed. I will probably ebay the granatelli's and spend a few more dollars and spring for the upr's. There is also a battle box kit for about $60 that I saw on ebay. I thought I wouldn't need anything like that but it's better to be safe than sorry. The H&R drop I beleive 1.7 ing the front. with all of my supporting mods will the 0.2 really affect my handling that much?
http://www.jegs.com/p/Granatelli/758397/10002/-1
Those are the control arms I have, man I thought I did enough research but there is always something that u miss. Jazzer thanks for all the good info, none of the parts are on the car yet so they can always be changed. I will probably ebay the granatelli's and spend a few more dollars and spring for the upr's. There is also a battle box kit for about $60 that I saw on ebay. I thought I wouldn't need anything like that but it's better to be safe than sorry. The H&R drop I beleive 1.7 ing the front. with all of my supporting mods will the 0.2 really affect my handling that much?
Last edited by marcuslee842; 02-24-2009 at 04:51 PM.
#10