rman101

ah i was under the impression that was basically what it was for. brake stalling

winsor33

I was told stock torque converters on Gt's were 2000? So if I could get a Mach 1 torque converters which stalls at like 2800 or 2900 for $100 should I do it or wait until I have more money and get a bigger one? I have a 2000 auto GT with an Eatons SC with about 11lbs of boost and 4.10 gears. Thanks.

rman101

i think the flash stall for the gt is 2400 but brake stall is 2000
flash for the mach 1 is 2800 but brake stall is around 2400 so itll only bump it up about 400 rpms.

pdub42

i have a 3000rpm converter for sale

ShinobiOfLegends

CORRECT!

but to the OP, my 03 GT w/ a 4v conversion had a 3600 from PI before i sold it and it was great. I almost went with a 3200 but i'm so glad i didnt. Definitely go with at least a 3600, otherwise you'll regret it.

GTRACER88

The one thing people misunderstand the most about torque converters is stall speed. Many think that if they have a converter rated at 2,500 rpm, the car will rev up to that rpm and then take off. That’s not how it works. Stall speed is a function of engine rpm—the more torque your engine makes, the higher the rpm the converter will stall, or lock up at, and transfer that torque to the transmission.There are two types of stall speed—foot brake stall and flash stall. Foot brake stall (also called true stall) is the maximum rpm that can be achieved with the transmission in gear, the brakes locked, and the engine at full throttle. The rpm reached before the vehicle moves is the true stall speed of the converter. The problem with foot brake stall is that you will end up overpowering the brakes and suspension before you reach the converter’s stall speed. The only way to really measure true stall is by using a trans-brake. This will keep the vehicle from moving, allowing the converter to absorb 100 percent of the engine’s torque.

ShinobiOfLegends

woohoo for a textbook definition! sounds like an answer straight out of my textbooks....

grogan

ive got a 3000 b&m holeshot stall and i cant hold past 1700. i paid 600 for mine from b&m. i wish i went bigger.

EODMustang

I have a PI converter with a 3200 rpm stall on my '01 GT. The performance gain that I got from it was substantial to say the least. At the same time, the stall wasn't so high that it raped my gas mileage. For a street car, a 3200 rpm stall is fine. My car has only basic bolt-ons, no FI, and 315 tires in the back. Even with that and some rear suspension mods, the car rips the tires through 1st and most of 2nd gear. I'm only putting down around 270 rwhp. I have recently installed the Cobra 10th anniversary brakes. When I had the stock brakes, I was only able to brake stall the car to about 2600 rpms before the rear tires would begin to turn. With the Cobra brakes, I can brake stall it to almost 4000 rpms before they start turning. If I were you, I would go with something around 3400 rpms +/-200 either way, especially if you plan on going with FI down the road. My car is currently having the Hellion single turbo kit installed and with that kind of power anything more than a moderate stall on the street is extreme overkill. Most streetable turbo or centrifugal supercharger kits are going to reach their full boost between approximately 2400-3400 rpms. If you plan on doing either of those in the future, look for a converter that has a stall speed slightly higher than where that kit will reach full boost. When it comes down to it, your choice should be based on what your future plans are for the car.