Need some knowledgable UCA/LCA help
07-17-2009, 09:40 PM
#21
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
It is also funny that the page says:
"...The fluted polyurethane bushed ends are mounted onto the chassis (floor) mount to absorb road noise. These combo ended LCAs will still wipe out most bind, yet keep the noise increase minimal for a street driven car."
If you look at the arm, one can see the spherical end is on the chassis end NOT the axle side. Not sure why the description does not fit the part pictured.
Jazzer
07-18-2009, 08:07 AM
#25
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Santa Monica, CA
Posts: 1,842
Umm ok...so after doing some more reading and thinking I realized that I don't really wanna risk going with UPR.
I am looking at the one you refered me to Jazzer:
http://www.griggsracing.com/product_...products_id=84
They seem to be good and I can just about look over the price. It says it has only one solid end, is that really all I need? Cause I wanna go ***** out on the launch so I need something to hold up well.
Also, do you know if it is a bolt on part or will I need to make modifications to the chassis and what not?
I am looking at the one you refered me to Jazzer:
http://www.griggsracing.com/product_...products_id=84
They seem to be good and I can just about look over the price. It says it has only one solid end, is that really all I need? Cause I wanna go ***** out on the launch so I need something to hold up well.
Also, do you know if it is a bolt on part or will I need to make modifications to the chassis and what not?
07-18-2009, 10:42 AM
#26
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
I realize the price is higher, but you will get what you pay for in these arms. It is a direct bolt-on part and WILL hold up under the heaviest abuse you can ever send its way 
The chassis will not need any mods and recommend you adjust the LCA to be the same length as the one you remove. Just measure from center to center of your existing arms mounting holes and make the Griggs one the same. Expect some additional road noise once installed and can follow ***THIS*** thread for someone else who just installed these same arms. Seems to me the lower ISO wouldn't fit the Griggs LCA, so he just didn't install one. This would be fine to do, but can ask Griggs about this during time of order.
Jazzer
EDIT: Yes... you only need one solid end and is on the torque-box side of LCA
The chassis will not need any mods and recommend you adjust the LCA to be the same length as the one you remove. Just measure from center to center of your existing arms mounting holes and make the Griggs one the same. Expect some additional road noise once installed and can follow ***THIS*** thread for someone else who just installed these same arms. Seems to me the lower ISO wouldn't fit the Griggs LCA, so he just didn't install one. This would be fine to do, but can ask Griggs about this during time of order.
Jazzer
EDIT: Yes... you only need one solid end and is on the torque-box side of LCA
Last edited by Jazzer The Cat; 07-18-2009 at 10:44 AM.
07-19-2009, 12:40 PM
#27
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: IL
Posts: 894
^ You are correct, I don't recommend as much as I used to, but don't be nervous
I like UPR, just heard of some pepes having problems with their stuff on HEAVY 1/4 mile use. Until reciently, was unaware that Griggs made a poly/spherical LCA for a stock spring location, so recommend what I run on my own ride (I run CO's all around, so I have the above LCA's).
All too often pepes end up going to the track at some point and eventually run a set of DR's out back. Griggs stuff is much more expensive than UPR, but also more heavy duty, as it is designed for race cars. I think it would take LOTS of abuse to damage any aftermarket LCA/UCA, but one only hears the negative stories about a product. I am sure there are Griggs LCA's that have failed, but have never heard of one. With that said, I did brake a Griggs front sway bar due to a defect in weld. Sometimes, sheet happens.
If I had not gone full Griggs GR-40 on my ride, I'd have gone UPR
Jazzer
I like UPR, just heard of some pepes having problems with their stuff on HEAVY 1/4 mile use. Until reciently, was unaware that Griggs made a poly/spherical LCA for a stock spring location, so recommend what I run on my own ride (I run CO's all around, so I have the above LCA's).
All too often pepes end up going to the track at some point and eventually run a set of DR's out back. Griggs stuff is much more expensive than UPR, but also more heavy duty, as it is designed for race cars. I think it would take LOTS of abuse to damage any aftermarket LCA/UCA, but one only hears the negative stories about a product. I am sure there are Griggs LCA's that have failed, but have never heard of one. With that said, I did brake a Griggs front sway bar due to a defect in weld. Sometimes, sheet happens.
If I had not gone full Griggs GR-40 on my ride, I'd have gone UPR
Jazzer
07-19-2009, 10:02 PM
#29
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
Marcus... just remove the quads completely
Once you upgrade the LCA's, they are no longer necessary. I would expect your car "might" actually ride a bit smoother without them...
May be a bit of a trade-off running a stiffer set of LCA's/UCA's, but the quads will resist articulation, to a degree, so rear-end will move a bit more freely. Jazzer says.... toss 'em
rman... I don't like the Steeda ones as they are poly/poly and will fight articulation (one wheel up in well, the other wheel down and out). Take a close look at the Griggs ones above and note the spherical end on it. That spherical end will allow the LCA to "roll" latterally or length-wise as the body of car rolls during a high-speed corner or one wheel hits a bump or pot-hole in the road. Have you ever gotten sideways in your ride only to find the rear-end violently snaps back and yanks the wheel out of your hands? This is oft referred to as snap-oversteer and can be seen in the vid below:
Snap oversteer
Jazzer
Once you upgrade the LCA's, they are no longer necessary. I would expect your car "might" actually ride a bit smoother without them...
May be a bit of a trade-off running a stiffer set of LCA's/UCA's, but the quads will resist articulation, to a degree, so rear-end will move a bit more freely. Jazzer says.... toss 'em
rman... I don't like the Steeda ones as they are poly/poly and will fight articulation (one wheel up in well, the other wheel down and out). Take a close look at the Griggs ones above and note the spherical end on it. That spherical end will allow the LCA to "roll" latterally or length-wise as the body of car rolls during a high-speed corner or one wheel hits a bump or pot-hole in the road. Have you ever gotten sideways in your ride only to find the rear-end violently snaps back and yanks the wheel out of your hands? This is oft referred to as snap-oversteer and can be seen in the vid below:
Snap oversteer
Jazzer
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
adjustable, adjustment, angle, articulates, articulation, baseline, fine, griggs, lca, mustang, nerd, perch, pinion, s197, steeda, uca, upr
