aMerICAn_mUsCLe79

Ok I will try and make this as short as possible since there is a little back story...ok here we go!

About a year and a half ago I did a Pi swap with VT stage 1 cams on my 98 Gt. Got the car tuned and all is good. We did not change the timing chain tensinors and the driver side one decided to "break" so about a half of year later kaboom. The driver side had valves hitting pistons ect. So I replaced the internals with all forged and the guy put on the PI stuff back in BUT did not put in the VT stage 1's, just the stock PI. (miss communication on his part)

So after that the engine is good, not great since no stage 1, but runs fine, a little sluggish. About a half of year later I put the stage 1 cam back in thanx to the anderson motor parts tool lol ( worked good) and all went well. Here comes the advice part...

At first the idle was rough but it kinda settled out after running it. But now it will sometimes stall at idle. The idle with dip somtimes then save itself and sometimes not. Its hit and miss. Also the car is not running the way it did when it was in the Car the 1st time. Its lacking a LOT of bottom end ( to a point where its hard to burn out and its a 5 speed) I feel the cams kick in top end but still overall is not how it was. Even though its the same pi set up, do I need to get the tuned re written? or is there anohter problem underlying this?

One more side note. 2 times since i have gotten the car back from the shop ( Once before the stage 1 cam and once after...about 3 months inbetween) the car stalled on me while driving and wouldnt start back up...It would crank and almost sound like it was out of gas. Both times after about 20 min it would start right back up like nothing was wrong. It was not happend since the last time about 2 months ago. Any Ideas?

Thanks in advanced I know its a long post....

aMerICAn_mUsCLe79

ttt...

ezking

I have the same symptoms, to a T.

I havent quite tracked it down yet either, although last night I was just re arranging the plug wires, with the battery unhooked, and I noticed that if I let the computer completely reset, it seems to act like its old self again, I couldnt keep the car hooked up for anything last night.

Im not sure exactly whats going on, But I started a timer on my G1 phone from the last time I let the computer reset, if it starts givin out on me again, im gonna reset it again, and restart the timer, to see if its a correction the computer is making that is ****in with my car soo bad.

Im thinking it might be something to do with the alternator or the battery if it isnt the computer... hopefully not the computer... also noticed i need to replace the lines coming off the cold air intake and the pcv o_O

ezking

Sry for the dbl post, 1 more thing... Have you tryed disconnecting the battery for a hard reset, and then starting it and letting the car idle for 20 minutes before doing anything?

aMerICAn_mUsCLe79

I did reset the batt once but it was right after I put the cams in. Ill have to try it again overnight and see if it helps or stays the same.

AirBrontosaurus

First, I would do some datalogging, and especially check your timing. I had a problem very similar to this, and it was caused by my "Minimum spark/ idle control" scalar being too small. Once I increased it, the problem instantly went away. Another thing it helps is the "hot start" problem, which I also had before I increased this scalar.

I would also think about playing with your dashpot settings. Since your cams change the characteristics of airflow, you may not have enough dashpot at idle to keep the car running. Either you or your tuner should check both the actual dashpot settings and the dashpot decay rate, and maybe decrease the decay rate by 10% and see what happens.

Oh, and ezking, the reason it probably acted like itself after you reset the battery was because that clears idle and fuel trim KAM. Your computer can do some idle correction itself, and clearing the KAM resets your fuel trims and makes the car re-learn them. If you had an intermittent problem with fueling, your adaptive table could simply have been out of whack and didn't have time to correct itself on the road. Resetting the battery fixed this... until the trims were re-learned. It also explains why you had no down low power, because the mixture was most likely completely wrong for optimum power.

Hope this helps. Like I said, datalogging is important here to tell what actually is going wrong.

aMerICAn_mUsCLe79

How would I check this? I acctully do not have the tuner it self, i just have a chip. Where I got it done was when i was at school ( an automotive school) and they used the computer software as the tuner and so i just have a tuned sct chip.

AirBrontosaurus

Ah... well, you need a datalogger to see the timing, and a tuner to see scalar value. So if you don't have either, I don't think there's anything you can do.

If you have a friend who has a datalogger, borrow his/hers for a little while and make the run. Pay attention to your timing and your RPM values. You can tell right away if the timing drops too far and is causing the problem.

To see the scalar, you'll need to have something that can directly interface with the PCM files. However, if your previous logging shows you that timing is causing the problem, then at least it will be easy for you to tell a tuner what you need.

aMerICAn_mUsCLe79

so basiclly I need to find some 1 with a data logger that i can use....should be able to find someone...i hope lol how much are they new?