HELP! Suspension install issues.
08-12-2009, 12:39 PM
#12
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 366
Also, I had already removed the front LCA bolt so the LCA was just hanging there by the rear bolt with no pressure from the axle or anything. It still wouldn't come out. Like I said, mine was seized to metal sleeve inside the bushing...damn old cars!
08-12-2009, 04:05 PM
#14
4th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Santa Monica, CA
Posts: 1,842
I did my LCA install with my friend 2 weeks ago and we initially had the same problem. We also had an even bigger problem lining up the bolt holes on the new LCA and the axle. We found out that when the car is lifted by the chassis and the stock (or any) LCA is removed, the differential pumpkin will like tilt downwards causing the holes to misallign. So what you have to do is put a jack under the pumpkin and put some pressure on it so you can easily remove the bolt. Then you have to do the same when you install the new LCA so the holes will line up and you can bolt on the new LCA to the axle.
08-12-2009, 05:03 PM
#16
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: IL
Posts: 894
Well I didn't get to the back yet because I was working on the front. Those ball joints suck ***! My god I am never planning on doing any work to the stang for a while. I was planning to do LT in a couple of months but **** that.
08-12-2009, 05:06 PM
#17
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: IL
Posts: 894
I wish they gave me new bolts with the control arms, so I can't cut them unfortunately. I am tired I have been working on this car for almost 3 days straight. Hopefully the end result will be worth all the trouble.
08-12-2009, 07:39 PM
#19
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 5,010
Let me get this straight. You took the nut off the rear LCA bolt which connects it to the axle but you cant get the bolt out of the housing? If thats the case jack the arm up so it will loosen up the tension on it then take a small extension and a hammer and beat it out it should come out with some good force. Just take a chill brake man and rethink it. Improvise with your tools. I know how frustrating it gets working on rusted up suspension bolts.
On your second question. No you wont bottom out on your bumpstop it will be just fine. I have a pro kit which drops it 1.5 inches and the car sits and rides fine. As for the foxbody struts Im not sure which ones you went with,some aftermarket or stocks?
On your second question. No you wont bottom out on your bumpstop it will be just fine. I have a pro kit which drops it 1.5 inches and the car sits and rides fine. As for the foxbody struts Im not sure which ones you went with,some aftermarket or stocks?
08-12-2009, 08:11 PM
#20
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
He has already jacked up the arm, but to no avail.
The bolt is "frozen" within the bushing and just spinning around. OP can't really get the WD-40 in there well to free it up either. What he needs is a tool that will tighten up against the threaded end of the bolt and back up on the opposite side, but AROUND the bolt head so it can be forced out. I would not be too happy hitting it with a hammer too hard. I would recommend OP gets a new grade 8 bolt from hardware store of the same dimensions, or get one from Ford. Then...
CUT THE F'ER INTO A 1000 PIECES
Jazzer
The bolt is "frozen" within the bushing and just spinning around. OP can't really get the WD-40 in there well to free it up either. What he needs is a tool that will tighten up against the threaded end of the bolt and back up on the opposite side, but AROUND the bolt head so it can be forced out. I would not be too happy hitting it with a hammer too hard. I would recommend OP gets a new grade 8 bolt from hardware store of the same dimensions, or get one from Ford. Then...
CUT THE F'ER INTO A 1000 PIECES
Jazzer