Low fuel pressure at rail
#1
Low fuel pressure at rail
Ok guys, I just bought a 2000 mustang GT last week.
BACK STORY:
The car ran like a beast until i almost ran out of gas. I barley made it to the gas station, and put 93 octane in it. Soon as i pulled off i got a SES light. The car started ticking under load and had a loss of power. The codes were P1233 , P1000, P1405 , P1464
NOW:
I have replaced the fuel filter ( bad bad, it looked like muddy water ). I have checked the fuel pressure at the rail and i am reading 30PSI. I have replaced all spark plugs ( because i thought or it felt like it was missing) I dont know where to go from here. Any help would be greatly appreciated and I hope this thread will help others because i have searched for the last 3 days and cant find any good write up on this.
ADDITIONAL: I also screwed my MPH gauge up by having a loose ground connection on the battery. It reads 70 MPH while the car is turned off. I know i can just take the shield off and place the needle, but do i need to worry about other problems i may have caused ?
Also the EGR has a missing hose running off the main line. Looks like a vaccume hose, have no idea what this is.
*Just in case any of this has something to do with my problems
THANKS!
BACK STORY:
The car ran like a beast until i almost ran out of gas. I barley made it to the gas station, and put 93 octane in it. Soon as i pulled off i got a SES light. The car started ticking under load and had a loss of power. The codes were P1233 , P1000, P1405 , P1464
NOW:
I have replaced the fuel filter ( bad bad, it looked like muddy water ). I have checked the fuel pressure at the rail and i am reading 30PSI. I have replaced all spark plugs ( because i thought or it felt like it was missing) I dont know where to go from here. Any help would be greatly appreciated and I hope this thread will help others because i have searched for the last 3 days and cant find any good write up on this.
ADDITIONAL: I also screwed my MPH gauge up by having a loose ground connection on the battery. It reads 70 MPH while the car is turned off. I know i can just take the shield off and place the needle, but do i need to worry about other problems i may have caused ?
Also the EGR has a missing hose running off the main line. Looks like a vaccume hose, have no idea what this is.
*Just in case any of this has something to do with my problems
THANKS!
Last edited by willbanks; 08-20-2009 at 11:46 PM.
#2
Look up the codes, and possible causes and diagnostic tips here...
You need to replace the EGR hose first, there's a vacuum line that runs arounf the intake manifold, it should connect to a T in that line.
Then work the other issues...
The 30 psig rail pressure is normal, as the PCM maintains a 39-40 psi differential pressure across the fuel injectors--at idle there is -10 psi pressure (vacuum) in the manifold, that plus the 30 psig rail pressure = 40 psia.
You need to replace the EGR hose first, there's a vacuum line that runs arounf the intake manifold, it should connect to a T in that line.
Then work the other issues...
The 30 psig rail pressure is normal, as the PCM maintains a 39-40 psi differential pressure across the fuel injectors--at idle there is -10 psi pressure (vacuum) in the manifold, that plus the 30 psig rail pressure = 40 psia.
Last edited by cliffyk; 08-21-2009 at 03:46 AM.
#4
Thanks, my repair book says it should read 40 PSI but I may have miss read it.
The EGR line that is missing a hose from the tube to the PFE ( is that correct?) Would this be causing all my problems? The codes make no sense to me, i know what they are but i dont know exactly how to trouble shoot them.
The EGR line that is missing a hose from the tube to the PFE ( is that correct?) Would this be causing all my problems? The codes make no sense to me, i know what they are but i dont know exactly how to trouble shoot them.
Last edited by willbanks; 08-21-2009 at 01:33 PM.
#5
That is the computer adjusted reading not the raw fuel pressure that you see with aftermarket gages. Like Cliffyk said, the computer tries to keep a constant 40 psi differential across the fuel injectors. It does this by subtracting vacuum from 40 or adding boost to 40. At idle when the car has approximately -10 psi of vacuum (18 in.hg.) the computer will report 40 psi on a data log but the raw fuel pressure is 30 psi. At zero vacuum, both the computer and the raw fuel pressure will read 40 psi. At 8 lbs of boost the computer will read 40 but the raw fuel pressure will be 48 psi. Going through the gears the computer will report a steady 40 psi but my aftermarket gage will jump from 30 to 50 psi.
The computer will also increase fuel pressure according to inlet air tempature to prevent vapor locking in the fuel rails. It uses the inlet air tempature to approximate fuel tempature. I've seen my aftermarket gage as high as 50 psi at idle on very hot days.
The computer will also increase fuel pressure according to inlet air tempature to prevent vapor locking in the fuel rails. It uses the inlet air tempature to approximate fuel tempature. I've seen my aftermarket gage as high as 50 psi at idle on very hot days.
#6
Thanks for clearing that up. As far as the EGR goes, i hooked up a 200 psi 5/16 fuel hose from the tube to the sensor. None of the parts stores i went to had anything that would resist high exhaust temps. It runs like a beast again and the hose seems to stay cool to touch at normal operating temp, but i'm not sure if this is going to melt over time. So far the SES has not come back on.
I geuss this threads title has nothing to do with my problems so, if a mod can change it or delete it I wouldnt mind. Thanks for the help
I geuss this threads title has nothing to do with my problems so, if a mod can change it or delete it I wouldnt mind. Thanks for the help
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