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what goes into planning for a S/C(Pro Charger)?

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Old 09-08-2009, 11:54 PM
  #21  
pcs
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my bracket hasnt warped and he also never had any pics about those broken brackets either. i just went with procharger b/c it came with a i/c and i didnt have to add it.
both blowers are great though, u cant go wrong with either one.
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Old 09-09-2009, 09:30 AM
  #22  
Fobra
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Originally Posted by pcs
...no, if prochargers claim was bs then they would just prove them wrong but they cant. my p1sc doesnt get much hotter than ambient temp. even after driving around in over 100f weather and under the hood of a black car with the a/c blasting i can still touch the head unit with my hand it, cant say the same about the oil pan, even after u turn the car off and its been sitting for awhile. ever changed oil on a car that has been driving around, HOT enough to burn u on contact and boil water, but not the procharger head unit. also, not that i believe everything that mags print but check this out too.
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...ort_mafia.html
also drag race cars dont have to deal with stop and go traffic with a/c blasting and are allowed to cool off after each run and are sometimes iced as well. so they dont deal with some of those extremes. but since the air doesnt stay in the s/c for much time, a few degrees will not affect the air temp much.
All i know is what I know from my experience... prochargers run hotter... it because of the cut of the gears.... it gives them that distinctive procharger whine. The self contained gets hotter... I promise.

all that BUT the real reason is that is that oil changes on the PC suck... the vortech is worry free... and all done at the same time
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Old 09-09-2009, 11:09 AM
  #23  
Eagle2000GT
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1) You do not have to do anything to your motor or suspension to prep it for a ProCharger. You can install a ProCharger on a completely stock Mustang.

2) The ProCharger kit comes with everything except sparkplugs. Head unit, intercooler, injectors, fuel pump, computer chip, etc. are all included in the price. If you get the standard 8 lbs pulley you can buy an optional three year warranty. With the warranty you get enough free supercharger oil to offset the cost of the warranty.

3) Most tuners recommend no more than 370-380 rwhp on a stock motor for a daily driver. A ProCharger with 8 lbs of boost on a stock motor will result in approximately 350 rwhp. A new MAF is usually not required unless you intend to go higher.

4) Don't trust the canned tune that comes with the kit. A canned tune is only good enough for you to ease over to a tuner to get it checked.

I had my ProCharger professional installed. They ran into problems that would have given me fits. The previous owner had installed underdrive pulleys and the head unit wouldn't fit. They also had to create a custom tune for my car because of the other mods it had.
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Old 09-09-2009, 11:19 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Eagle2000GT
1) You do not have to do anything to your motor or suspension to prep it for a ProCharger. You can install a ProCharger on a completely stock Mustang.

2) The ProCharger kit comes with everything except sparkplugs. Head unit, intercooler, injectors, fuel pump, computer chip, etc. are all included in the price. If you get the standard 8 lbs pulley you can buy an optional three year warranty. With the warranty you get enough free supercharger oil to offset the cost of the warranty.

3) Most tuners recommend no more than 370-380 rwhp on a stock motor for a daily driver. A ProCharger with 8 lbs of boost on a stock motor will result in approximately 350 rwhp. A new MAF is usually not required unless you intend to go higher.

4) Don't trust the canned tune that comes with the kit. A canned tune is only good enough for you to ease over to a tuner to get it checked.

I had my ProCharger professional installed. They ran into problems that would have given me fits. The previous owner had installed underdrive pulleys and the head unit wouldn't fit. They also had to create a custom tune for my car because of the other mods it had.
the procharger kit DOES come with injectors/Fuel Pump/Chip? Where are you finding this kit? Could you link me to a specific example so I can check it out?


ALSO

Since the vortech is not self-contained, what am I going to have to do to lubricate it? Somebody mentioned earlier you have to tap your oil pan, but then I think somebody said after that there is a new way (instead of taping your oil pan.) is anybody familiar with this?


and third, 8 lbs of boost will only net 350 HP? I was hoping to put about 400 to the wheels (without doing any engine work, like forged internals), how many lbs of boost does this usually require? I already have a decent amount of bolt-ons, so will that help any?
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Old 09-09-2009, 11:19 AM
  #25  
Eagle2000GT
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I don't know if ProChargers run hotter or not I haven't measured the tempatures of both. Any air compressor heats up. It's the nature of the beast. I know that after 45,000 miles my ProCharger is running fine with no problems. The brackets haven't warped (I've never heard that one before.) and the oil change isn't that big of a deal.

Vortech's are good superchargers but they have their own problems. I once read a post from a guy with a vortech that had a seal go out. He said the engine oil flowed through the intake and hydrolocked his motor.
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Old 09-09-2009, 11:28 AM
  #26  
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ProCharger sells two types of kits. One with everything and a "tuner" kit for shops that supply their own injectors, fuel pumps, etc. The link below is to ProCharger. They have an excellent tech support team and they can recommend dealers and installers.

http://www.procharger.com/contact.shtml

You don't list any mods in your garage but other mods help a lot. 350 rwhp is on a completely stock motor. A 75mm TB/Plenum and LT header will get you close to 400 rwhp at 8 lbs of boost. A 10 lb pulley will definitely get you there. Tell tech support the mods you already have on your car.
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Old 09-09-2009, 11:53 AM
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I have all my mods listed in my sig (I have no idea how to use the "garage" feature of this forum haha)

Anyways, I am in the process of sending lots of emails to lots of people to try to coordinate this. Granted this will be done in months, not weeks, but I need to get the research out of the way before I can start planning on the install.

I do however think that I am going to do the install myself. I feel that I would save well over a grand in labor, and since I am going to have the car tuned by a local shop I have in mind, I think I will stay away from the kits that include a chip/tuner (I could probably save a few hundred dollars)


I am looking for a procharger kit that includes the inter cooler, but I am going to buy the fuel pump, injectors, MAF, and plugs separate. And like I said, I dont need a chip, I will have the guy tune the car for me (I already have a chip in my car that can be altered)
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Old 09-09-2009, 02:25 PM
  #28  
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That sounds like a plan. You may want to contact ProCharger and just buy a "tuner" kit. Good luck with your build. If you have problems with the install call ProCharger. They have a great tech support team.
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Old 09-10-2009, 12:12 AM
  #29  
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thanks for all the help guys. I would be lost without you!
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:16 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Fobra
All i know is what I know from my experience... prochargers run hotter... it because of the cut of the gears.... it gives them that distinctive procharger whine. The self contained gets hotter... I promise.

all that BUT the real reason is that is that oil changes on the PC suck... the vortech is worry free... and all done at the same time
if you say your pc runs hotter than your engine oil then their might be something wrong with it. like i said earlier, my runs cooler than the engine oil and i can prove it to anyone who wants to see it for themselves. i just check it out today, it was over 100f today here and my pc never got over 200f cant say the same about my engine oil. even a mag company agrees with my claim, not to say yours is wrong in your situation though.also, the gear cut does give the pc a distinct sound but that also comes from the fact they they use billet gears and not cast. also a helical gear doesnt run cooler, only quieter and smoother than a straight cut gear.
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