Gears done and....
10-05-2009, 09:55 PM
#11
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 24
did you make sure the pinion depth was set correctly as well? The contact pattern needs to be in the center on the x and y axis of the gears.
How hard is it to put the extra shims next to the carrier when you put the thing together?
How hard is it to put the extra shims next to the carrier when you put the thing together?
10-05-2009, 10:40 PM
#12
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NH
Posts: 574
And I'm starting to get frustrated. I took it apart again today and increased the backlash and recheck the run-out and the gear pattern, all look perfect. Then noise is still there. Its not as bad in reverse. Does it matter that i don't have brakes and wheels on the car? Could have a bad bearing? Also i notices that the passenger side is spinning faster then the drivers side. Any help is appreciated, I want my car back.
10-05-2009, 10:45 PM
#13
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NH
Posts: 574
Sorry i missed your post before i posted. I didn't check pinion depth because the pattern looks really good. The shims are the same thickness total between both sides as stock was i just shifter 0.015" to decrease the backlash.
10-05-2009, 10:53 PM
#14
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 24
If the knocking sound didn't go away by adjusting the backlash then i would have to guess that it is something that doesn't concern the gears. The fact that the right wheel is spinning faster than the left concerns me. How old is your trac-lok, because the clutch plates would have to be failing for that to occur?
The bearings are needle bearings and one of them could've come loose. Depending on the mileage, I would've just swapped out all the bearings while you were at it for preventative maintenance.
I think there is also some special friction adder that needs to be added to the rear because of the clutch plates in the carrier. Did you add that in? I'm not sure if that could make a knock.
The bearings are needle bearings and one of them could've come loose. Depending on the mileage, I would've just swapped out all the bearings while you were at it for preventative maintenance.
I think there is also some special friction adder that needs to be added to the rear because of the clutch plates in the carrier. Did you add that in? I'm not sure if that could make a knock.
10-07-2009, 06:56 PM
#16
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NH
Posts: 574
Wheel i went out at got new bearings for the carrier and had them put on today. Guy tried to charge me $25 a bearing. I laughed in his face and got him to do it for $15, which still seems like to much. Anyway, I haven't had time to put it back togeather and find out if that was the problem. Hopefully it was cuz it was another $65 into this project.
10-08-2009, 12:07 AM
#17
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 56
easiest way to do it when I did it was measure the backlash of the gears that were in there previously. Then of course install all new bearing if you were over 60k. If you mess up the crush bearing putting it back in your cant just unscrew the nut and try it again. the crush bearing is a one shot deal. If the new bearings dont take care of the noisde then id say to check the posi again and gears to make sure there isnt anything wrong with them to start with because everything else you seem to have replaced....
10-08-2009, 11:43 AM
#18
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NH
Posts: 574
Yeah, i know i did the crush sleeve right. I am on the high side of the rotional resistance, but when i pulled the diff. out the the other day i ran it with just pinion gear in the case (only for about 2 secounds) just to make sure the noise wasn't coming from the pinion bearings. So tonight we i'm out of my lab i'm gona put it back togeather agian and hope its all good and i can have my car back.
10-08-2009, 02:23 PM
#19
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 2,158
you were using old bearings? you should have checked the races to see if there was a wear pattern inside, if so you def should replace the bearings on carrier and pinion as well as the races. if using new bearings the pinion preload needs to be set no more than 25 in/lbs according to ford but try to get it around that. 15 in/lbs may not be enough which could be causing a slight play in the pinion contact with the ring. The backlash should be no more than .014 and more than .008...try to shoot for .010-.012....when you are starting it up to listen is the cover and fluid in the diff? did you measure the pinion head with shim on the original pinion and adjust with a new shim for the new pinion? I did 373s in mine, no whine or noise, and i just put 430s in a buddys 2 weeks ago. Give that a shot...
10-09-2009, 09:57 AM
#20
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: NH
Posts: 574
ok well the clicking is gone... but now there gears or kinda growling at me. And there is some vibration along with it. I didn't have a dial gauge this time to check the back lash but it seemed to be the same.... not that, that actually matters. I can't find what the pinion depth should be for my gears cuz there ford production and i can't get ford to tell me. They don't make any noise until about 15 mph. i don't know what i want to do now.
