4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) MustangTechnical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within. Sponsored by Cruizin Concepts
Welcome to Mustang Forums!
Welcome to Mustang Forums.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Hold the throttle at wide open, and the ECU will disable spark and fuel and will just crank. Ford added this intentionally. No, I'm not kidding.
A note of warning, it only does it for the FIRST crank after the key has been turned on. If you decide that wasn't enough priming and try the starter again while still holding WOT it -WILL- start. Just turn the key to off, then back to on, hold wide open again, and crank.
Better method even than pulling the fuel pump relay.
2004 GT - 40th Anniversary Pkg.
Just another turbo DOHC
i believe the best way is to attatch a line to the block and use a hand pump. But from what I hear these cars dont need a whole lot of priming for the initial start up. You can just pull the injectors and ignition wires. Thats how I did mine and somehow magically the engine started turning over slowly on its own. Was basically turning with no fuel or spark. Dont know how it happened
i was told to unplug the crank sensor and crank the engine. to do it for a few times, plug the sensor back, and turn it on. have you all heard about this method before.
yes but even with that method it still takes a second before the pressure builds up. If you used proper assembly lube it should be fine, but its always nice to know it has oil pressure during the first strokes of turning over the motor. The less bearing material you lose during startup the better and more bearing material means longer lasting and more durable it will be
If you've assembled the motor correctly with lube and filled the oil pump with lube like the book says then there is plenty of assembly lube on everything for the initial start up before the pump makes pressure.
yea, that logic doesen't seem too sound, but like said earlier if its put together with assembly lube like it should be, it will be fine for the few seconds it takes for the pump to make pressure... why else would you use assembly lube???
Holding the throttle WOT WILL shut down the injectors, as stated before.. But if you're wanting to prime the oil pump I would assume you don't want a dry start? So why, then would you turn the engine over? It's a dry start, Spark or not..
Do it by hand, as previously stated. But also, if you've used assembly lube you're perfectly fine.
Red 1996 GT
BBK Shorty Headers
Pypes HFC'd X Pipe
Hurst Billet Aluminum Shifter
Rear Window Louver
Drilled/Slotted Rotors with High Perf. Pads
Sequential Tail Lights
Awful Looking Stock Rims Painted Gun-Metal
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware
corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford
Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor