How thick of wheelspacers for rear wheels to make flush with front wheels?
10-23-2009, 08:02 PM
#12
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
I cant see what you think 'won't work' about it, if he buys 1.5" hubcentric spacers and there is bodywork rubbing issues then you have the bodywork adjusted accordingly, by flaring/rolling the arches.
and what exactly don't you see as being safe, THERE IS NO SAFETY ISSUE WITH HUBCENTRIC SPACERS, I have many friends who race cars back home one of them being a rally car and they all use/have used hubcentric spacers in the past with no issue, you will never put as much stress on your car as a rally driven car has, in addition to that i used drift a 240 back home with spacer shims about 1/4" and never had a problem.
a hubcentric spacer is exactly the same as having a larger offset wheel all you have to make sure of is that you have the correct size spigot rings (thats what its called in the uk)
P.s. i ordered 1.5" hubcentric spacers to solve a rubbing issue on my Bullitt 2 days ago and i will be drifting it, it wont be a problem.
and what exactly don't you see as being safe, THERE IS NO SAFETY ISSUE WITH HUBCENTRIC SPACERS, I have many friends who race cars back home one of them being a rally car and they all use/have used hubcentric spacers in the past with no issue, you will never put as much stress on your car as a rally driven car has, in addition to that i used drift a 240 back home with spacer shims about 1/4" and never had a problem.
a hubcentric spacer is exactly the same as having a larger offset wheel all you have to make sure of is that you have the correct size spigot rings (thats what its called in the uk)
P.s. i ordered 1.5" hubcentric spacers to solve a rubbing issue on my Bullitt 2 days ago and i will be drifting it, it wont be a problem.
I realize you meant no harm when recommended a 1.5" spacer. The problem here is, he may have done just that and bought some on your recommendation. I am not going to get holier-than-thou, but is an example of how forums can lead people to make incorrect decisions. I figure it is safe to say the OP does not plan on fender work, so not quite so quick to "volunteer" him for such a job
Who knows, they may fit, but a bummer to buy them only to later find they won't. In reguards to safety.... there are two types of spacers one can use for the OP's concern. The first is to install longer lug-bolts and what I have done to run the 1/2" spacers out back on my wheels. The second is to purchase spacers such as those pictured below:
Personally, I am not a fan of such a spacer, weather they are on rally cars or not.... weather they are hub-centric or not. I think it a bad idea to have lug-nuts covered and inaccessable to confirm they are tight without removing the wheel. You may be comfortable with such a thick spacer and covered lug-nuts, maybe even the OP.... but I am not, so I don't recommend them.
Jazzer
10-23-2009, 09:27 PM
#13
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: california
Posts: 22
If you do the body work what else is going to effect the fit, nothing.
so if you he read my post he would understand that in buying 1.5" spacers he may need additional body work to make them work, i don't see how that could lead to him making a poor descision.
with regards your comments about spacers, hubcentric spacers are far safer than the shim type, you have to understand that your wheel is not supposed to 'sit' your cars weight on you lugs it is supposed to 'sit' on the small ring that protrudes from your hubs the lugs are only supposed to hold the wheel against the hub and allow the hubs to transfer the force to the wheels.
if you sit all of the weight of your car on its lugs you will end up with elongated lug holes in your wheels thats why when you buy the hubcentric ones they have the 'ring' for the wheels to sit on, not only is it safer but its the way your wheels and hubs were designed to be used in the first place.
i think that at 1/2" spacers you should be fine but it is possible to get spiggot extenders so that you can have the origional spigot ring from your hub still seat properly in your wheel, i would strongly suggest you get these.
once again i want you to understand the if you use hubcentric spacers it is no different to using a wheel with a different offset.
Finally, you are always advised to torque your lugs up to the specified amount then drive for about 700 miles and then re-torque them if you follow this they will not come loose, the lug nuts are cut to the same conical shape as the wheels and hubcentric spacers thats why they don't come loose and why you should always use the correct lug nuts wheels and spacers for your car!
thanks
kim
so if you he read my post he would understand that in buying 1.5" spacers he may need additional body work to make them work, i don't see how that could lead to him making a poor descision.
with regards your comments about spacers, hubcentric spacers are far safer than the shim type, you have to understand that your wheel is not supposed to 'sit' your cars weight on you lugs it is supposed to 'sit' on the small ring that protrudes from your hubs the lugs are only supposed to hold the wheel against the hub and allow the hubs to transfer the force to the wheels.
if you sit all of the weight of your car on its lugs you will end up with elongated lug holes in your wheels thats why when you buy the hubcentric ones they have the 'ring' for the wheels to sit on, not only is it safer but its the way your wheels and hubs were designed to be used in the first place.
i think that at 1/2" spacers you should be fine but it is possible to get spiggot extenders so that you can have the origional spigot ring from your hub still seat properly in your wheel, i would strongly suggest you get these.
once again i want you to understand the if you use hubcentric spacers it is no different to using a wheel with a different offset.
Finally, you are always advised to torque your lugs up to the specified amount then drive for about 700 miles and then re-torque them if you follow this they will not come loose, the lug nuts are cut to the same conical shape as the wheels and hubcentric spacers thats why they don't come loose and why you should always use the correct lug nuts wheels and spacers for your car!
thanks
kim
10-23-2009, 10:30 PM
#14
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 149
I believe Jazzer is a suspension/wheel Guru, so even though I am willing to use the newer style spacers (due to ease), I am sure he is correct.
At what point would people need to roll fenders on the SN95's? I see alot of people with 1-1.5" spacers or 10-10.5" wheels on back and havent heard anyone having to roll their fenders for fitment.
At what point would people need to roll fenders on the SN95's? I see alot of people with 1-1.5" spacers or 10-10.5" wheels on back and havent heard anyone having to roll their fenders for fitment.
10-23-2009, 11:24 PM
#17
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: California
Posts: 242
yeah if i have to i have no problem doing some body work. but i'll probally get the hubcyntric style spacers because i have friends with trucks who use them and i would trust them better. and because i need at least 1 1/4" and if i need to go a little wider can just do a 1/4" shim right?
10-23-2009, 11:54 PM
#18
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 11,786
No, I had a nail go through the sidewall and 315's where a better buy. 335's are just overkill.
these are the 315's on the 11" wheel. The fronts are 9.5" wide with 275's.
These are 335's on a stock Saleen wheels that was widened to 11".
these are the 315's on the 11" wheel. The fronts are 9.5" wide with 275's.
These are 335's on a stock Saleen wheels that was widened to 11".
10-24-2009, 01:15 AM
#19
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: california
Posts: 22
I believe Jazzer is a suspension/wheel Guru, so even though I am willing to use the newer style spacers (due to ease), I am sure he is correct.
At what point would people need to roll fenders on the SN95's? I see alot of people with 1-1.5" spacers or 10-10.5" wheels on back and havent heard anyone having to roll their fenders for fitment.
At what point would people need to roll fenders on the SN95's? I see alot of people with 1-1.5" spacers or 10-10.5" wheels on back and havent heard anyone having to roll their fenders for fitment.
however hubcentric is not the new un-tested easy way of doing it, its the right way, everyone is going to have different opinions on things like this but fact is fact, hubcentric are the correct and more professional and safer way to do it.
there is not really a point that you can say you'll need bodywork adjustments because there are so many variables, tire size, ride hight, spring rates etc, but if you drive down the road and it rubs you need your arches rolled ha ha
10-24-2009, 07:51 PM
#20
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Indiana
Posts: 149
very true. Like I said, I feel comfortable using them. I dont race or anything, just the occassional WOT for funs sake
So with an 18x10 with a 295/35/18 tire in the rear there should be no rubbing on quad shocks or outter fender? ANd with a 1" spacer on stock 17x8's with stock 245/45/17, there should also be no rubbing at the outter fender?
So with an 18x10 with a 295/35/18 tire in the rear there should be no rubbing on quad shocks or outter fender? ANd with a 1" spacer on stock 17x8's with stock 245/45/17, there should also be no rubbing at the outter fender?
