Cam degree article
#12
Here is a serious news update -
After doing a bunch at one time I have learned the cams have more issues than the gears. I just did a set of cams that were supposed to be 110 and found 102 and 112. The 102 of this monster cam had the valve into the piston even with a piston notch. Even the OEM cams vary a few degrees I have learned.
After doing a bunch at one time I have learned the cams have more issues than the gears. I just did a set of cams that were supposed to be 110 and found 102 and 112. The 102 of this monster cam had the valve into the piston even with a piston notch. Even the OEM cams vary a few degrees I have learned.
#15
Nick, what do you do about getting the dial indicator extension angle correct on a 4V? I find the cam caps are in the way of the ideal angle, and it shows up as inconsistent peak valve lift. I've ended up both short and long in testing.
Also, do you know where I can find factory cam cards? I'd like to know the stock opening/closing specs (plus all other specs) for 96-98 4V.
Timing a 4V is extremely frustrating. I've been working on it in my spare time for a VERY long time, trying to perfect the process. Built many new tools, bought better versions of all the manufactured tools you need, and still not convinced I have it right. The 18" moroso degree wheel I use is so large, and therefore more accurate, that it'll scare you how much you can be off from test to test. Ever try checking a cam, then tearing down your entire setup, re-setup from scratch, and check it again? It's humbling.
Great tip about the earlier modular valve retainer. I've got to try that. The angles on my 97 drive me nuts in inconsistency. I was just thinking today that the hot setup might be a custom made "retainer" that acts as an extension plate. That would cure the stupid cam cap angle problem.
Also, do you know where I can find factory cam cards? I'd like to know the stock opening/closing specs (plus all other specs) for 96-98 4V.
Timing a 4V is extremely frustrating. I've been working on it in my spare time for a VERY long time, trying to perfect the process. Built many new tools, bought better versions of all the manufactured tools you need, and still not convinced I have it right. The 18" moroso degree wheel I use is so large, and therefore more accurate, that it'll scare you how much you can be off from test to test. Ever try checking a cam, then tearing down your entire setup, re-setup from scratch, and check it again? It's humbling.
Great tip about the earlier modular valve retainer. I've got to try that. The angles on my 97 drive me nuts in inconsistency. I was just thinking today that the hot setup might be a custom made "retainer" that acts as an extension plate. That would cure the stupid cam cap angle problem.
#16
Best way is to remove the head and zero the piston directly. Its a biach doing it through the spark plug hole on any head. If you zero number 1 on the pass side it should also be perfect for number 6 on the drivers side so you don't have to move the wheel side to side.
#17
I have a long piston stop from Innovative Products of America. It's just barely long enough to reach all the way up the plug hole without needing any tools to get to it. On the 4V, with the plug pretty much in the middle of the piston, I think that's not too big of an issue.
Any thoughts about the other stuff I mentioned?
Any thoughts about the other stuff I mentioned?
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