OLDFOOTER

2000 GT The clutch is very hard to mash down. The car only has 38,000 miles on it. Lived indoors most of its life. Had checked by local dealer they said it was normal. Looked at by independent he used a gauge and it took about 56 lbs to mash clutch. Tried another later model it took 25 lbs. Is this a problem with this model.

JC316

Depends on whether it's stock or not. I had the old style king cobra clutch and it was a nightmare. The newer style that I installed is much softer. Bottom line is that it's a cable style clutch and there is going to be some resistance.

OLDFOOTER

It is a stock clutch. It reminds me of high performance clutches of the 60's and 70's. Leg shakes at light if held too long.

Jazzer The Cat

A hard to push clutch is a subjective thing and sounds like this is a new car to you. Try this.... open up the clutch cable access door on the side of the bell housing. Then just push the clutch fork straght in toward the passenger side of car (not forward/backward) THEN... try the clutch again, see if it is any easier. If it is, repost with your results.

Jazzer

OLDFOOTER

It is new to me that is why had a pressure gauge used to test pedal pressure, not just percieved to be harder than it should be. A number of other clutches were tried not just mustangs. The 50 plus reading was the highest reading of all tried. Most others were in the 25 lb range. Will check the throw out bearing arm as soon as I can.

Bullitt2theHead

I don't know how hard you drive your stang, but if you baby it, go out and drive the "poo" out of it. Do a couple of 2-3-4 shifts at 5k+ rpms. See if it is grabbing. If you have a heavy clutch pedal and it is not grabbing (popping the clutch and it not breaking traction/gerking at high rpms) its time for a new clutch kit. If it grabs, like was said before, pull your linkage cover on the tranny and see if its an aftermarket clutch. If its the stocker, realize its a 9 year old car with low miles=lots of inactivity with the clutch engaged.

Jazzer The Cat

I'm thinking this may be what I had on my clutch a couple years back. The clutch fork was "slipping" off of the pivot bolt about 1/2 way. This caused the fork to be driven into the side of it when depressing the clutch. This added MAJOR resistance and found out that pushing it in a bit via the access door mentioned above, was able to temp. solve it because the fork was then put back on top of the bolt as designed.

I figured all this out when I bought all new parts and replaced the clutch after I nearly broke down on the way to Disneyland

Jazzer

EDIT: ***HERE*** is a post of when the trouble really began I had some mad speculation on the cause of the problem and predicted it on post #54 of that thread