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-   -   Super weird SCT problem (SCT cant even help!) (http://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l-1996-2004-modular-mustang/576858-super-weird-sct-problem-sct-cant-even-help.html)

Jbauer 12-10-2009 10:02 AM

Super weird SCT problem (SCT cant even help!)
 
Hey guys check this out.
I have a tune installed on my car... so i go and try and take the tune off yesterday..i plug the SCT tuner in.. it wont turn on... the odometer reads - - - - -..like it should, but the tuner itself wont turn on or make that noise it should make when powering on.

So i try it on 3 other cars...this frikin thing turns on and works just fine on all there cars..but when i plug it into mine..it wont work!!!

so i figure my OBD port is the issue...so i check all my fuses..all are fine. So i go to autozone to see if there scan will power on with my OBD port...it DOES! ...emissions test... plugs in and powers on the emissions testing computer just fine... go plug in SCT tuner.. EPIC FAIL!

WTF!! The good ole' boys at SCT are stumped, and so am I. what on earth!
Can anyone offer me any help!?!

Thanks

cliffyk 12-10-2009 02:39 PM

The only thing that occurs to me is that while pins 4 and 5 of the OBD2 connector are both ground, they are separately wired as pin 4 is technically the chassis ground, and pin 5 is the signal ground.

A scan-tool or tuner should connect to both pins, however I have seen many that do not and only connect to one.

If the SCT tuner only uses one (pin 4 or 5), and the pin or wiring for that pin is damaged, then the SCT would not have a ground connection on your car and therefore not power up. Other OBD2 tools might still work correctly.

On our cars pin 4 is a black wire tied to a chassis ground point (G204), pin 5 is a black/yellow wire connected to G104 which appears to be a hard-wired homerun back to the battery.

Has your negative battery terminal wiring been changed?

Chris98Gt 12-10-2009 04:29 PM

edit, nvm didn't read your whole post about the fuses.

Jbauer 12-10-2009 04:44 PM

cliffyk, i did have a radio/amp/sub installed....

What should i be doing, as i dont know jack squat about electrical except the basics?
where is g204 and g104s location? i'll take a look at it and bring intel. back as to how they are wired with pics and stuff.

Thanks so much!

cliffyk 12-10-2009 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbauer (Post 6684778)
cliffyk, i did have a radio/amp/sub installed....

What should i be doing, as i dont know jack squat about electrical except the basics?
where is g204 and g104s location? i'll take a look at it and bring intel. back as to how they are wired with pics and stuff.

Thanks so much!

I'll get some info together tomorrow. SWMBO wants to go out to a late dinner now...

Jbauer 12-10-2009 10:27 PM

Thank you so muchr, i really appreciate this!!

cliffyk 12-11-2009 05:31 PM

I haven't forgotten about this--just busy with working and paying bills an stuff..

Jbauer 12-11-2009 05:56 PM

understood, thanks again

cliffyk 12-13-2009 01:07 PM

You need to check the wiring to the OBD2 port (DLC, Data Link Connector) and make sure nothing has been cut/broken/pulled-out, etc. Also look at the face of the DLC and make sure no pins are messed up (I have seen them get pushed in).

Here's a DLC pin-out diagram for our cars:
http://www.paladinmicro.com/images/OBD2-DLCPinOut01.png
Our cars have only the pins highlighted in yellow. If you have a multimeter set it to measure voltage and check between pins 4 and 16, then between 5 and 16. You should get a reading of 12.0V or more on both tests--if not then, and one reads +12.0V and the other does not then the ground pin providing no reading (either pin 4 or 5) is not wired properly.

The key does not have to be ON to make this test, the +12.0V supply to pin 16 is always on...

If you don't get +12.0V on either test then the power to pin 16 is disrupted--it is powered from fuse #31 (10A) in the Central Junction Box (under the dash).
http://www.paladinmicro.com/images/CJB-Fuses01.png

Don't worry about the G104 and G204 grounds right now, report back on what you find.

If you don't have a multimeter you can buy one most anywhere these days for $20 or less. Harbor Freight, if there's a store nearby, has a perfectly serviceable small digital meter for under $5. Even a 12V test light would work...

Jbauer 12-14-2009 12:17 AM

ok so i use my test light and pin 1 is the only one getting power...maybe the connector is upside down and pin 1 is actually 16...so i go with that... and i get the meter out.

i test between the first pin (which i'm assuming is 16) and pin 4... i get LESS than 12 volts but not 0. I do the same thing to pin 5...and it says Overload...

cliffyk 12-14-2009 03:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbauer (Post 6691033)
i used a testlight on those pins as my first test as i attempted to diagnose them myself...the test light lit up a very bright Yellow!...whats next? should i buy a meter anyway ?

Just to be sure, this was when testing between 4 and 16, and 5 and 16?

If so then you better get a multimeter and check the voltage--if there's +12V between 4 & 16 and 5 & 16 the tuner should power up. Also, make sure there is 0.0V or close to it between pins 4 and 5.

Jbauer 12-14-2009 03:04 PM

please read my last edit on the previous page. i'll check i have 0.0 between 4 and 5 now

cliffyk 12-15-2009 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jbauer (Post 6691033)
ok so i use my test light and pin 1 is the only one getting power...maybe the connector is upside down and pin 1 is actually 16...so i go with that... and i get the meter out.

i test between the first pin (which i'm assuming is 16) and pin 4... i get LESS than 12 volts but not 0. I do the same thing to pin 5...and it says Overload...

The connector housing is asymmetrical as shown in the diagram above, and is "upside down" as compared to the diagram, so pin 16 will be in the "upper" row, leftmost position as you look at the connector head-on. Pins 4 and 5 will be in the bottom row, in the center.

How much "less than 12 volts" between pins 16 and 4?

Also, I don't understand the "Overload" reading at all--is your meter auto-ranging? If not are you certain it was set to an appropriate voltage range?

There should not be any more than 14.4V anywhere on that connector--even with the engine running at 6500 rpm...

Jbauer 12-16-2009 11:33 AM

ok will retest now
thanks for your help! i've been working 12 hour days

rugger9de 07-30-2014 01:42 PM

Cliffy, this is a reply to old post, but please bear with me. I have an intermittent problem with the instrument panel on my 2003 GT convertible. From time to time the whole panel "zeros" (all the gauges go to zero), they may stay dead for 10 minutes or several days. The idiot lights still work however (traction control, abs etc). I suspect I have an intermittent ground problem at G204. However, I don't know where G204 attaches to the frame. You mention a possible issue with G204, do you know where it mounts to the frame? If so please shoot me back a response. Much appreciated.


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