misfire help needed!
#1
misfire help needed!
coming home off the highway im on the off-ramp, throw it in neutral and entertain myself and give her a rev maybe up to 4K coast in neutral and drop it into 4th after it has settled to put around the corner to the stop sign and she starts to buck....
get to store and pull codes P1235, P0316, P0300, P0301, P0305
all pertain to a misfire with the last 2 codes specifying cylinder 1 and 5 in the front left and right....
its an 04 with 37K mi on it....
what i have searched so far is:
possible bad COP's on both
bad spark plug on both
fuel filter (i havent dont for the couple months i have owned it but not first time i have got on it)
MAF acting up
it will not only chug in gear but it wont want to stay running which im leaning toward a fuel starvation prob...maybe injectors pluged?
im searching right now trying to find other problems so i dont go out and buy all these parts i dont need....
ANY help is greatly appreciated.
Dean
get to store and pull codes P1235, P0316, P0300, P0301, P0305
all pertain to a misfire with the last 2 codes specifying cylinder 1 and 5 in the front left and right....
its an 04 with 37K mi on it....
what i have searched so far is:
possible bad COP's on both
bad spark plug on both
fuel filter (i havent dont for the couple months i have owned it but not first time i have got on it)
MAF acting up
it will not only chug in gear but it wont want to stay running which im leaning toward a fuel starvation prob...maybe injectors pluged?
im searching right now trying to find other problems so i dont go out and buy all these parts i dont need....
ANY help is greatly appreciated.
Dean
#2
well more researched netted me this: originally from CliffyK
"On any transformer, which is all a coil is, the primary winding is the one that power flows in to. On our COPs the two terminals where the harness connects is the primary winding--resistance between those should be 0.3 to 0.8 Ohms.
Between the coil output and either of the primary pins you should get 4k to 10k Ohms. If you get a proper value between the output and one primary pin, and 0 Ohms between the output and the other primary pin, then the primary is open."
i took off both my cylinder 1 and 5 coils as well as coil from cylinder 6 to compare them to because 6 was not giving me problems.
according to the readings Cliffy posted as far as the coils are concerned, mine were checking out OK with the .3 to .8 on primary's (mine was .8) and 4K to 10K between primary and outlet (mine was 5.43K)
so off to the store to change the spark plugs see if that fices my problem. ill prob grab a fuel filter as well, couldnt hurt.
ill keep an update...as i was reading threads like these to see what fixed other people's problems.
Dean
"On any transformer, which is all a coil is, the primary winding is the one that power flows in to. On our COPs the two terminals where the harness connects is the primary winding--resistance between those should be 0.3 to 0.8 Ohms.
Between the coil output and either of the primary pins you should get 4k to 10k Ohms. If you get a proper value between the output and one primary pin, and 0 Ohms between the output and the other primary pin, then the primary is open."
i took off both my cylinder 1 and 5 coils as well as coil from cylinder 6 to compare them to because 6 was not giving me problems.
according to the readings Cliffy posted as far as the coils are concerned, mine were checking out OK with the .3 to .8 on primary's (mine was .8) and 4K to 10K between primary and outlet (mine was 5.43K)
so off to the store to change the spark plugs see if that fices my problem. ill prob grab a fuel filter as well, couldnt hurt.
ill keep an update...as i was reading threads like these to see what fixed other people's problems.
Dean
#3
well an update: put new plugs in cylinders 1 and 5 and car started and held and idle....so that was a start
drove around the block a bit and was bucking through all gears. CEL came on giving me a P1000 and the same P1235.
any have experiance with this? i read around that its the fuel pump driver module and could need replacing? through AZ they can only do pump and module together for $209...
Ford has them for $102
any advice/suggestions welcome
drove around the block a bit and was bucking through all gears. CEL came on giving me a P1000 and the same P1235.
any have experiance with this? i read around that its the fuel pump driver module and could need replacing? through AZ they can only do pump and module together for $209...
Ford has them for $102
any advice/suggestions welcome
#4
P1000 just means that the OBD2 "readiness tests" are not complete (due to the emission related P1235 code).
Here is what the shop manual says about P1235...
Here is what the shop manual says about P1235...
#5
i actually use your site too Cliff. between this forum, your site, mitchel on demand, and google.....i came to the conclusion about the fpdm.
SO i went to the dealership and ordered one...will be in tomorrow $113 later. i came home to replace the rest of my plugs (bought all 8 and not just 2 for my miss firing cylinders which actually cured the miss fire codes) and after doing so started it up....idles fine seems to drive fine...revs fine...
so this mess may have been fixed by just doing spark plugs. i went with the Bosch platinum 4's since the stock ones i were told are platinum so i went middle of the line.
im going to be taking the car around town to the car wash and the gym later tonight. see how it goes. Im still stuck on why giving it a rev would create so much mess...i mean people rev alllll the time in exhaust vids...unless that was the straw that broke the camel's back
SO i went to the dealership and ordered one...will be in tomorrow $113 later. i came home to replace the rest of my plugs (bought all 8 and not just 2 for my miss firing cylinders which actually cured the miss fire codes) and after doing so started it up....idles fine seems to drive fine...revs fine...
so this mess may have been fixed by just doing spark plugs. i went with the Bosch platinum 4's since the stock ones i were told are platinum so i went middle of the line.
im going to be taking the car around town to the car wash and the gym later tonight. see how it goes. Im still stuck on why giving it a rev would create so much mess...i mean people rev alllll the time in exhaust vids...unless that was the straw that broke the camel's back
#6
well took the car out last night....went to car wash and get gas as well as beating on it a bit. car seems to drive just like it did before. great power and doesnt miss a beat (get it "miss a beat"...i was having misfire problems HA....HA) ok anyways, so it seems fine now.
im going to be getting the fpdm today and debating whether to replace it or return it. did not take the car to work since i was uneasy about getting codes like the fpdm and having it go away after just plugs being done. still lost on WHY the fpdm had a problem. im guessing that the plugs went which snowballed into the P1235 fpdm problem... so by doing plugs it straightened everything else out.
to be continued......
im going to be getting the fpdm today and debating whether to replace it or return it. did not take the car to work since i was uneasy about getting codes like the fpdm and having it go away after just plugs being done. still lost on WHY the fpdm had a problem. im guessing that the plugs went which snowballed into the P1235 fpdm problem... so by doing plugs it straightened everything else out.
to be continued......
#7
well another update. bought the fpdm from ford and threw it in along with the previously stated new spark plugs. car runs perfect again. have been driving it everyday and has not acted up once.
im not certain if i needed the fpdm after the plugs or not, but i already had bought it and i dont like to take chances with electronic parts where they can act up at any point.
so....car is fixed.
im not certain if i needed the fpdm after the plugs or not, but i already had bought it and i dont like to take chances with electronic parts where they can act up at any point.
so....car is fixed.
#9
wow...funny, i was just reading your thread about your car messing up and was coming to this on to link you to here...
check your COP's with a voltmeter (if you dont know how find someone who does know how to use one) refer to post# 2
could save you money on paying at least $50 per COP...
check your COP's with a voltmeter (if you dont know how find someone who does know how to use one) refer to post# 2
could save you money on paying at least $50 per COP...
#10