New Project: step I engine build. What should I buy?
#11
this is what i have on the car already:back to front:
8.8 4.10 ford racing ring&pinion
ford racing 31spline axels & differential
bbk upr&lower control arms
subframe connectors
ford racing aluminum driveshaft
spec stage 3 clutch& aluminum flyweel
tr3650 trans steeda 3peace adjustible clutch cable quadrant
hooker long tubes xpipe w/o cats magnaflow series exaust
polyurethane engine mounts
professional products intake manifold
^ pp plenum pp 75mm throttle body
^ pp fuel rails
ford racing 24lb inj
jlt intake
90mm mass
bbk under drive pullys
180' stat
sct xcal 2 tunner
150 wet wot
eliminated: rear 02 sencors, egr valve, front sway bar, ac, powersteering
8.8 4.10 ford racing ring&pinion
ford racing 31spline axels & differential
bbk upr&lower control arms
subframe connectors
ford racing aluminum driveshaft
spec stage 3 clutch& aluminum flyweel
tr3650 trans steeda 3peace adjustible clutch cable quadrant
hooker long tubes xpipe w/o cats magnaflow series exaust
polyurethane engine mounts
professional products intake manifold
^ pp plenum pp 75mm throttle body
^ pp fuel rails
ford racing 24lb inj
jlt intake
90mm mass
bbk under drive pullys
180' stat
sct xcal 2 tunner
150 wet wot
eliminated: rear 02 sencors, egr valve, front sway bar, ac, powersteering
#12
i know what you mean my friend has a 1995 svt cobra on 150 wet and after like 200 passes on the spray piston number 3 cracked a nickle sized nic out of it and some how the exaust valve was open when it happend and it shot out the exaust, didnt even scratch the cylinder wall.
#13
this is what i have on the car already:back to front:
8.8 4.10 ford racing ring&pinion
ford racing 31spline axels & differential
bbk upr&lower control arms
subframe connectors
ford racing aluminum driveshaft
spec stage 3 clutch& aluminum flyweel
tr3650 trans steeda 3peace adjustible clutch cable quadrant
hooker long tubes xpipe w/o cats magnaflow series exaust
polyurethane engine mounts
professional products intake manifold
^ pp plenum pp 75mm throttle body
^ pp fuel rails
ford racing 24lb inj
jlt intake
90mm mass
bbk under drive pullys
180' stat
sct xcal 2 tunner
150 wet wot
eliminated: rear 02 sencors, egr valve, front sway bar, ac, powersteering
8.8 4.10 ford racing ring&pinion
ford racing 31spline axels & differential
bbk upr&lower control arms
subframe connectors
ford racing aluminum driveshaft
spec stage 3 clutch& aluminum flyweel
tr3650 trans steeda 3peace adjustible clutch cable quadrant
hooker long tubes xpipe w/o cats magnaflow series exaust
polyurethane engine mounts
professional products intake manifold
^ pp plenum pp 75mm throttle body
^ pp fuel rails
ford racing 24lb inj
jlt intake
90mm mass
bbk under drive pullys
180' stat
sct xcal 2 tunner
150 wet wot
eliminated: rear 02 sencors, egr valve, front sway bar, ac, powersteering
#15
the internals idk yet i want to build something different as far as the bottom end i was thinking je pistons or mahle pistons, if any body has some good ideas that would be great.
the top end i was thinking some patriot perfomance stage 2,3 heads
but my friends say the pi head with a port job and cams, cam gear,and valve springs from patriot would be the same as the staged heads being there about the same and the pi heads are aluminum?
#16
IMHO - get a rotating assembly from Tymensky at Modular Performance as he will put a proper piston notch in it for a real nitrous cam.
Ported PI heads are all you need, Patriots are ported PI heads. You fry a TFS head under boost and have to replace it your pocketbook will not be happy. Plus nitrous/boost is the great equalizer when it comes to head flow, the more nitrous/boost you have the more you really need reliability rather than some monster flow number.
Edelbrock intake is the best for a nitrous car as it doesn't have the plenum on the bottom holding a load of liquid waiting for the next backfire.
I know a few people building these combos now, 7000RPM on the juice with that intake is a seriously fast car.
Ported PI heads are all you need, Patriots are ported PI heads. You fry a TFS head under boost and have to replace it your pocketbook will not be happy. Plus nitrous/boost is the great equalizer when it comes to head flow, the more nitrous/boost you have the more you really need reliability rather than some monster flow number.
Edelbrock intake is the best for a nitrous car as it doesn't have the plenum on the bottom holding a load of liquid waiting for the next backfire.
I know a few people building these combos now, 7000RPM on the juice with that intake is a seriously fast car.
#17
I have a mid-2001 GT with the TR3650 trans, I am taking this car I had in storage for III years and decided to build it its already a full bolt on car with a 8.8 31spline differential 4.10 ford racing gears. Im wanting to build the block top to bottom, money is not an issue and just was debating with some friends about what i should do first. should i port the stock pi heads and throw in a nice Comp Cams Stage II Xtreme Energy XE270AH Cams with Comp Cams Adjustable Cam Gears and Comp Cams Valve Springs Kit Beehive or should i just buy the Patriot Performance 2V Stage II Cylinder Heads instead of using the OEM factory pi heads? what about the bottom end to hold up on a wet 200 shot of nitrous?
#19
IMHO - get a rotating assembly from Tymensky at Modular Performance as he will put a proper piston notch in it for a real nitrous cam.
Ported PI heads are all you need, Patriots are ported PI heads. You fry a TFS head under boost and have to replace it your pocketbook will not be happy. Plus nitrous/boost is the great equalizer when it comes to head flow, the more nitrous/boost you have the more you really need reliability rather than some monster flow number.
Edelbrock intake is the best for a nitrous car as it doesn't have the plenum on the bottom holding a load of liquid waiting for the next backfire.
I know a few people building these combos now, 7000RPM on the juice with that intake is a seriously fast car.
Ported PI heads are all you need, Patriots are ported PI heads. You fry a TFS head under boost and have to replace it your pocketbook will not be happy. Plus nitrous/boost is the great equalizer when it comes to head flow, the more nitrous/boost you have the more you really need reliability rather than some monster flow number.
Edelbrock intake is the best for a nitrous car as it doesn't have the plenum on the bottom holding a load of liquid waiting for the next backfire.
I know a few people building these combos now, 7000RPM on the juice with that intake is a seriously fast car.
just so im clear the trickflows flow better but dont hold up as well with boost as the patriots do. patriots r more reliable in that case is what you r sayin? i ask becuz this is in the future for me as well.... ideally lol
#20
i dont think that is what he is saying,trick flows a better head but more exspensive if you have to replace one of them. i think ha. ha.